Lting with Top Plate Spacer- Help

Alabamaguy

Alabamaguy

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Lifting With Top Plate Spacer- Help

I've assembled my Bilsteins with OEM springs on the highest setting and I've got a 3/4" top plate spacer with longer bolts on top. Starting to put it back together and I can't get the suspension to droop enough to bolt the struts back into the lower control arm.
 
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Put your stock bottle jack upside down between the upper A-arm and fender. Then use it to push the assembly downward
 
try the above- it should work.. if it doesnt, run a strap around it to keep it from popping out and just pry up on it with a bar or something. I had the same issue.. Long story short there were 3 of us installing each front assembly lmao..
 
Ok, I'm going to try the bottle jack idea tomorrow when I start back. We got fed up with that side and move to the driver's side. Popped the top ball joint out and bolted the strut assembly in, now the issue on that side has become getting the ball joint back in. However, with this new knowledge I'm going to to try that on the other side and if I can get it to work. If so, I'll remove the strut that's in there and put it back together that way. :gun6:


Edit: Looking back, I had maxed out the downward travel by using a long piece of tubing. Would the bottle jack force more movement? If not, what's the next step? If I jack up on the hub area it just picks the truck up.

My top plate spacers are about 3/4" thick. Looking at Toytec's site, theres seem to be 1/4" thick. Are mine simply too large?
 
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Alabamaguy said:
Edit: Looking back, I had maxed out the downward travel by using a long piece of tubing. Would the bottle jack force more movement? If not, what's the next step? If I jack up on the hub area it just picks the truck up.
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How close were you to getting the bottom bolt in the shock when you used the pipe? about an inch or so?
 
Alabamaguy said:
It was closer to 2, eye to eye. More like one if you're judging strictly vertically.
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I'd try that bottle jack method just to make sure it was completely drooped.

Unless somebody has a better idea you might have to start over with the strut assembly. Let me show you what I mean when I find the thread....just hold on a sec.
 
the bottle jack method will work. There shouldn't be a need to mess with the ball joints at all. The only bolts you need to mess with are the 3 on top, and the lower shock bolt. Good luck!
 
So from looking at that, could I keep my struts assembled, loosten the LCA bolts and let it droop, then bolt the strut to the LCA and jack it back up into place and re-tighten the bolts?
 
Alabamaguy said:
So from looking at that, could I keep my struts assembled, loosten the LCA bolts and let it droop, then bolt the strut to the LCA and jack it back up into place and re-tighten the bolts?
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Ha! yeah that should work. I didn't think it all the way through.
 
The easiest way to do it is to insert the top of the coilover in to the upper mount and put the 3 nuts on finger tight. then you can pry down on the UCA or use the bottle jack to get the bottom bolt lined up.

Also, the stock lug wrench is the same diameter as the bottom bolt so you can use it to help line it up.
 
cj80cruiser said:
Ha! yeah that should work. I didn't think it all the way through.
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I certainly hope so. We had similar troubles when my friend's taco broke the pedestal mount on his bilsteins (jumping with these shocks doesn't go over too well) and the repair situation got hairy. I got these assembled and went to put them back on and it did not go as expected. Maybe the rear will be easier.
 
Alabamaguy said:
I certainly hope so. We had similar troubles when my friend's taco broke the pedestal mount on his bilsteins (jumping with these shocks doesn't go over too well) and the repair situation got hairy. I got these assembled and went to put them back on and it did not go as expected. Maybe the rear will be easier.
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The only real issue's I hear about the rear are getting the top mount on the shocks off because they are rusted and up tight to the body. Probably should just cut them off or break them off unless you plan to reuse the old shocks.

If you have a fairly long pry bar then you shouldn't have too much trouble with the springs.
 
Don't do the stupid upside bottle jack thing.

Loosen the upper control arm bolts. (you may need to loosen the lowers too). This will allow the UCA an knuckle to droop freely. This also takes the torque off the bushings in the UCA. Re-torque the bolts with the vehicle back on the ground. The control arms (front and rear) were torqued at the factory with the stock height. I also loosen the rear control arms when lifting the back. It really simplifies things.

You will need an alignment anyway from adding the lift.
 
Gerdo said:
Don't do the stupid upside bottle jack thing.

Loosen the upper control arm bolts. (you may need to loosen the lowers too). This will allow the UCA an knuckle to droop freely. This also takes the torque off the bushings in the UCA. Re-torque the bolts with the vehicle back on the ground. The control arms (front and rear) were torqued at the factory with the stock height. I also loosen the rear control arms when lifting the back. It really simplifies things.

You will need an alignment anyway from adding the lift.
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Is it fairly easy to torque those upper control arm bolts back down with the tires back on? I may do like you suggest here.
 
Gerdo said:
Don't do the stupid upside bottle jack thing.
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lol Gerdo! I've tried it your way, and it was more work IMO. Not saying its hard to do, I'm just saying I'm lazy. Its super easy to just use the bottle jack. You don't have to mess with any of the plastic lining in there to get to the bolts, you don't have to worry about torque specs. Maybe its just me, but I'd use the bottle jack method over loosening the UCA bolts any day.
 
I'm going to try the bottle jack method, then we'll give the LCA a shot. Assuming it doesn't rain today.

In other news, driver's side sway bar endlink twisted and broke in half. Is this normal? I know I'm rough on things but...
 
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Mine broke off rather easily. They seem to break all the time. If you want a new set then look up the "Trailmix" thread Built New Swaybar Endlinks for my Runner. It's a cheap replacement. Their other options too as far as quick release links but they usually cost more.

He got the kit for the rear. I bought a kit for the front and if you look where I posted that will let you know what you need for the front.
 
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