Maintenance Costs

[WillK]

My 01 Runner just rolled past 193,XXX miles and I'd like to hold onto it for a while longer, so I plan on doing several maintenance projects this year and I'm trying to get an idea of two things;
1). What I should be doing
2). Parts and labor estimates

I just did plugs, wires, pcv and fuel filter
Clean MAF sensor and throttle body
1) Oil changes as needed Cost $ 30.00
2) Transmission fluid change Cost $ 75.00
3) Considering new O2 sensor Cost $ 75.00
4) Radiator, coolant, hoses, belts Cost $ 225.00
5) LBJ's Cost $ 600.00*
6) TB/WP Cost $ 800.00*

*- indicates work performed by dealership

How close are my estimates? And is there any other major maintenance project I should include?

 

[shootmymime]

rear axle seals usually blow out around 100K miles.

 

[Kraze]

Differentials and transfer case oil change (assuming you're 4wd)? Air filter? If you live in a place where rust is a problem, undercoating if you don't already have it? Other than that, your list looks pretty good.

Also, if you have the tools, I'd recommend doing the LBJ's yourself. It could save you a couple hundred bucks. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I was able to replace my LBJ's without too much trouble. Here's a link to a write up if you want to see what it would involve so you can decide: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/103217-lower-ball-joint-removal-installation.html

 

[WillK]

rear axle seals usually blow out around 100K miles.

Thanks- I'll add this to the list...

Differentials and transfer case oil change (assuming you're 4wd)? Air filter? If you live in a place where rust is a problem, undercoating if you don't already have it? Other than that, your list looks pretty good.

Also, if you have the tools, I'd recommend doing the LBJ's yourself. It could save you a couple hundred bucks. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I was able to replace my LBJ's without too much trouble. Here's a link to a write up if you want to see what it would involve so you can decide: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/103217-lower-ball-joint-removal-installation.html

I thought about the differentials- just forgot to add it/them.

Although I'm in a rust area,my Runner has little to none, so I think it's good there. As for doing the LBJ's- we'll see. That's going to be quite a job for me to take on. Thanks for the info.

 

[JEL]

I'd also include a complete brake fluid flush (every two years) and doing several turkey baster drain and refills in the power steering reservoir. I did the turkey baster method every day for a week before setting off and went through a quart of DexIII ATF, now the fluid is red and good to go. I had a bad experience flushing with another truck (my damn F350 wouldn't stop leaking, had to replace the hose), so I just use this method now and it gets the majority of the old stuff out, which is fine given most people never do it ever in many cars.

 

[DGO-SR5]

You may look at your suspension parts such as power steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings and end links, inner/outer tie rods, struts/shocks. Some of these may be totally fine but I'm sure a few could use replacement at close to 200k

 

[BrianSD_42]

From my thread ....

I haven't updated the maintenance list for about 2 years now ....

5 years ownership – maintenance done 2003-2008

:bounce:

I am going to include maintenance and costs in this thread because I want readers to get an idea of the maintenance that is expected for these vehicles. Yes, a 4Runner engine can run for 300k but expect to spend $500+ a year fixing things. For most of the time I have owned the truck, I have had other people work on it. I have done some small things myself such as starter and eventually the suspension but for the most part I had to take it somewhere. Part of the reason for this is because I was in the Navy and had no garage and limited knowledge of auto mechanics.



Rough estimate on miles, some of it is from my log, the rest is from memory
100,000 miles ------- Warranty replacement of factory coils
110,000 miles ------- Spark plugs, change diff fluids
110,000 miles ------- $350, Timing Belt and water pump [done at Naval Exchange, used non-Toyota parts ]
120,000 miles ------- $650, Re-build rear axel seals and redo rear brakes (ruined by axel seal fluid) at dealer
130,000 miles ------- $350, Valve cover gasket and belts
135,000 miles ------- $280, Replace front brake pads and machine rotors @ Midas
135,000 miles ------- $280, Rear axel seals go again , dealers fault, they agree to redo for parts only
138,000 miles ------- $100, Re-surface rear drums and adjust brakes; this time I go to The Truck Shop in San Diego

I decided to switch mechanics at this point. No more stealership, no more Midas. I started going to a local shop “The Truck Shop” in San Diego. Reason: you can talk to the owner; they know what they are doing; good prices & honest.

139,000 miles ------- New spark plug set
July 2008 ------------ Fuel filter replaced
Aug. 2008 ----------- New exhaust: Flowmaster with tundra resonance silencer
Aug. 2008 ----------- $400, Lower Ball Joints replaced (luckily they started to ruin my tires => detected the failure)
Summer 2008 ------ $350, Steering Bushings, replaced with poly ones
Summer 2008 ------ $550, Install rebuilt steering rack => like new again
Sept. 2008 ---------- $550, Complete front brake rebuild – upgraded front brakes to Brembo slotted & cross drilled rotors with performance pads. Installed via The Truck Shop in SD. I still have factory limited calipers but this setup is awesome, my truck stops so hard the tires will shred.
Sept. 2008 ---------- $150, Tranny Pan drain plug starts to leak; spot weld repair, this is much cheaper than a new pan.


Cracked Head CYL #3
Post 771701 --> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...al-build-maintenance-thread-2.html#post771701

Add to this list:
* Re-sleeve 1 CV joint ($180)
* Replaced complete throttle body with used one ($85 install + $100 part)
* 1 OEM Coil pack, diagnosis and install ($125)
* Spark plug wires
* O2 sensor x2

But hey it is still running like a champ

:humble:

 

[BrianSD_42]

agreed.

The only thing I would do ASAP if they haven't been changed yet is the LBJs and the Radiator.

 

[Brian757]

I agree with Brian and others.
I did my LBJs and UBJs about a few weeks ago. The UBJs were a complete PITA. The lowers werent that bad, just having to press them out is the only frustrating part. Bolting the new one in self-presses it essentially.

I would also do the tranny cooler install, like a B&M or something.

 

[WillK]

WHOA! First, thanks for the input everyone.
Second, my maintenance list has grown:

Fluids, axles, front end components.

I still plan on starting with radiator, belts and hoses. Then LBJ's unless something else pops up.

As for front end parts, I just had new tires and an alignment done four months ago. I would assume that if some of the front end parts were bad, they wouldn't have been able to do the alignment, correct..(??)

If not, what kind of checks do I perform (or have performed) for front end parts, like tie rods?

I know the sway bar bushings are bad- they look worn out so I'll add those to the list as well.

I do a visual inspection of the rear axle and don't see anything leaking. Is there anything else I should be doing for inspection?
Also, does anyone have an idea of how much it costs to have the seals replaced at the dealership??

 

[LittleCaesar]

I'd recommend replacing the inner and outer tie rods at the same time. I did not do mine like this (replaced the inners later on), but should have. Tie rod replacement improved steering dramatically, but an alignment would be necessary afterwards.

Depending on the dealer and the amount of work to replace items, it can be upwards of $1300 here in the DC area.

 

[nyvram]

Cherry on top... Does your power antenna still work?

If so it won't for long. Hit the info thread on here and buy that $20 OEM replacement mast now while yours still works. Takes about 2 minutes to swap out unless you leave the old one in until the plastic track shatters from dry rot.. Then you have to pull the motor out.. Take it apart and clean it out so you're looking at an hour plus ripping a couple pins loose from your fender guard.

 

[DGO-SR5]

If the alignment checked out okay then most likely your other front end parts are okay for now. I would just keep your eye out for any rips in upper/lower ball joints and the outer tie rods. Also when my inner tie rods were going bad they would cause my 4runner to pull to the drivers side under hard braking. If you do the tie rods I agree with LittleCeasar to do inner/outer at the same time. I couldn't get my outer/inner separated from each other so I bought new boots and just broke the inner free and took them out in one piece with the outer. For me tie rods and steering rack bushings made the biggest difference.