Marvel mystery oil engine flush

[Traveler74]

Has anyone used Marvel Mystery Oil engine flush ???

I have looked it up on youtube and Google. Opinions vary widely but most people claim it works very well to clean an engine when poured in the crankcase.

Considering using it in my 195K , 3rd gen V-6 engine.

 

[Skulking]

Has anyone used Marvel Mystery Oil engine flush ???

I have looked it up on youtube and Google. Opinions vary widely but most people claim it works very well to clean an engine when poured in the crankcase.

Considering using it in my 195K , 3rd gen V-6 engine.

I've never used it myself, but my feelings on any sort of engine flush/ seafoam etc. type thing is that unless you have a specific problem that there is reason to think doing it might fix, it's a pointless risk. Do you actually have a specific problem that you think a MMO engine flush will fix?

 

[HiLife]

It depends. Have you looked into your cylinder head area? That cleaner may work well but, the cleaned material has to go somewhere if it's extra dirty. Maybe plugging some oil passage, oil pump screen or oil filter.
It's better and safer to do multiple short oil changes to clean out an engine if it's dirty on the inside.

 

[Devbot]

I constantly run a quart of MMO at all times, put in about 4qt of Rotella T6 and 1qt of Marvel. According to Marvel themselves it should cut the 5w40 to roughly that of 5w30 in that amount (believe it also says so on the back of the bottle how to calculate it). My initial reason for doing so was to help clean out some cooked oil in my valvetrain and generally clean out the system, and it's worked pretty well for it but it did take a 1-2 full OCI's to see any change.
Some people also use Gumout Multi-System in the oil but I've yet to do so. I believe it's only something like 1oz per 1qt or something real minuscule so I haven't tried it in that sense, but it does make a great fuel cleaner so maybe worth a shot.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

BG109 is a great engine flush. Pour it in, ten engine at 1200rpm for a few min and then drain oil and change filter.

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[HiLife]

I agree. BG is the bomb!
Would you follow that up with MOA and 44K?

 

[Mudballz]

I’ve had good success with sea foam and bg products but bg did work better faster but is more expensive then sea foam either works but my routine is 500 miles before oil change add the product into the crank case followed by bg44k into the fuel tank at about 100 miles till refill this goes quicker if you drive like Jason Bourne at the wheel of an Italian taxi then change out oil good for 10k
:vader: Mike

 

[snydmax]

BG109 is a great engine flush. Pour it in, ten engine at 1200rpm for a few min and then drain oil and change filter.

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^^^ this is what I use every 3rd OCI


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[snydmax]

Any reputable “engine cleaner” which I think is what we are talking about here, will warn against using their product in a dirty engine. Anything from removed buildup clogging something down the line to causing leaks due to removing carbon buildup around seal areas.

The slower approach is safer... I prefer BG 109 (aka EPR “Engine Performance Restorer”) but I’d suggest you do a few shorter oil change intervals with a good synthetic to start the cleaning process before using a true “engine cleaner”


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[Traveler74]

I've never used it myself, but my feelings on any sort of engine flush/ seafoam etc. type thing is that unless you have a specific problem that there is reason to think doing it might fix, it's a pointless risk. Do you actually have a specific problem that you think a MMO engine flush will fix?

Yes, I changed the oil and filter just after I bought the truck 8 weeks ago, and after a week the oil was far too black to suit me. I looked in the oil filler cap and I saw a far amount of hard black substance. Truck has 195 K on it.

A Mexican friend of mine, who is professional small engine mechanic is encouraging me to drain the oil, install a new cheap filter, and fill the crankcase with 1 gallon of diesel fuel and 1 quart of oil. Then run the engine at 1,200 RPM for 5 minutes. Then immediately drain, put fresh 5W-30 and a OEM Toyota filter on. PS: I am getting the idiot light at idle RPM's BUT NOT AT 1,200 plus RPM's.

I know very little of what might be best. Diesel fuel flush Vs. Marvel Mystery Oil flush OR do the diesel fuel 1st followed by Marvel flush ???? Hoping that knowledgeable T4R posters can steer me in the right direction.

 

[HiLife]

Hmm, I know diesel oil is oily buy, would 1 quart of oil and 4 quarts of diesel provide enough on an oil film safely in the main and rod bearings area? I wouldn't trust that theory.
If it works yay, it's a huge headache if it doesn't. Safer to do short oil changes still.

 

[Devbot]

Using diesel is a common way to clean out transmissions and oil sumps, though I've only heard of people letting it sit overnight or through the weekend, not letting it run. But I'm also talking about what I've read online, I don't personally know anybody to do this. Personally I'd just use something like MMO - if it royally screws your car you can raise hell with them. Not so much if you pour a bunch of diesel in there.
Gasoline and diesel are both excellent solvents, but so is MMO. All Marvel Mystery is, is a shitload of detergents suspended in an SAE 5 weight oil.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

MMO is mineral spirits and a light aromatic oil.

I’ve used a qt of ATF in my Saturn on occasion.

I like the BG109 the best and have plenty and have the suppliers business card.


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[Kanoe]

Have you run that oil pressure test yet? I’d gladly buy the gauge to end the suspense.��

 

[Traveler74]

Have you run that oil pressure test yet? I’d gladly buy the gauge to end the suspense.��

No, not yet. I did buy a new oil pressure sensor sending unit and a large 24mm socket to remove the old one and install the new one. I'm on limited retirement money and I must buy things in stages.

Currently, I'm chasing a problem with the engine stalling at normal hot idle speed.
Looking for any possible vacuum leaks. Right this minute, the ****ing truck will NOT run if I take my foot off the gas pedal. Until I can fix that problem, everything else must wait.

Please, have patience with an old man who knows next to nothing about auto mechanics

 

[ambush]

No, not yet. I did buy a new oil pressure sensor sending unit and a large 24mm socket to remove the old one and install the new one. I'm on limited retirement money and I must buy things in stages.

Currently, I'm chasing a problem with the engine stalling at normal hot idle speed.
Looking for any possible vacuum leaks. Right this minute, the ****ing truck will NOT run if I take my foot off the gas pedal. Until I can fix that problem, everything else must wait.

Please, have patience with an old man who knows next to nothing about auto mechanics

An engine needs 3 things: Fire, Air, and Gas. Check to make sure your plugs/wires are getting fire then check your MAF sensor and throttle body (use cleaners), then last but not least your FUEL filter.
My bet right now, MAF or Throttle then throw this in the mix, fuel filter clogged.
Do a smoke test. Get a cigar and blow its smoke into the throttle. As you give it gas have someone or you look into the engine to see where it could be leaking (smoke).
I hope this helps!

PS:
Check your AIR filter!! If that is DIRTY or clogged, I bet it can cause it shut down too..

 

[ambush]

About the flush...

I have never been one for flushes unless it is for a radiator that is clogged. Dealers love to offer that service (high powered flush) to unknowing car owners and in the long run it is a cash cow when the there are issues with either the engine or transmission.

To be honest, our trucks should not need a flush. Just more frequent drain and fill. As mentioned above, Rotella Synthetic Blend is AWESOME.
Drain and fill. Use a good oil filter (Fram, Bosch, OEM Toyota, Purlator, K&N, etc.).

 

[Kanoe]

Please, have patience with an old man who knows next to nothing about auto mechanics

It’s all good. We’re friends here, just want to see you get it sorted.

We all have growing pains with new vehicles and most turn out ok.

 

[Traveler74]

An engine needs 3 things: Fire, Air, and Gas. Check to make sure your plugs/wires are getting fire then check your MAF sensor and throttle body (use cleaners), then last but not least your FUEL filter.
My bet right now, MAF or Throttle then throw this in the mix, fuel filter clogged.
Do a smoke test. Get a cigar and blow its smoke into the throttle. As you give it gas have someone or you look into the engine to see where it could be leaking (smoke).
I hope this helps!

PS:
Check your AIR filter!! If that is DIRTY or clogged, I bet it can cause it shut down too..

I put a new air filter in and cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. The only thing which seems to make sense right now is a dirty throttle body and/or the IAC. Truck starts right up but when it gets warmed up, THAT is when it shudders and stalls.

 

[ambush]

I put a new air filter in and cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. The only thing which seems to make sense right now is a dirty throttle body and/or the IAC. Truck starts right up but when it gets warmed up, THAT is when it shudders and stalls.

Well we are here to help. Keep messing and let us know what changes you see or dont see.