I seem to be having problems with my master cylinder. Yesterday when I was stopped at a red light, my car slowly started creeping forward and my pedal was slowly going towards the floor. I had to pump my brakes to stop my car from moving. When I press on the pedal with the engine off, with some constant pressure the pedal will slowly move towards the floor. Does this sound like a problem with my master cylinder? Is this a easy/moderate DIY replacement or do I need to go to a dealership? My car is getting pretty old so I'm not sure if a $3k repair is even worth it at this point. Its a 2005 SR5 w/ 205k miles.
Master Cylinder Problems
- Thread starter ooandyoo
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pedal to floor is the master or a leak. if NO leak then the master is bad. should not be a big expense.
check brake fluid see if the level is correct and not dropping .
when parked engine on push down on brake pedal should hold. if not then with the fluid level not leaking out the master is bad. 2005 vehicles with high miles and lots of traffic will do it.
Thanks. Thats what I suspected. Brake fluid levels are good and I couldnt find any evidence of any leaks. Pedal will slowly go to the floor with the engine on or off. $3k fix for a car worth $5-6k. I think it might be time for a new car.
earthrealm
Senior Member
[MENTION=138935]catrains[/MENTION], the master cylinder is quite expensive, unless he is buying used...should cost him about $500 if used,
remember to bleed properly
remember to bleed properly
shahsmerdis
New member
I had the same problem you have a leak on one of your calipers. or somewhere, stop driving the car now!
edit if its MC, unfortunately the ones in our cars are f**** stupid expensive.
zonianbrat
New member
Seems to me like you are wanting a new car. If you do go to a dealer you will spend 2,500 at least. Or you can buy them used online for around 400-500 dollars then either install yourself or have someone install it. I guess there is a way to bleed it but I let a mechanic install and bleed it because I thought you needed it done by a computer so that all the solenoids were bled in order. I was told this by a mechanic at a shop that I will never go back to so he might have lied to me. I should have done more research but anyway I did this like 4 years ago with a used unit and spent like 1200 total.
Bumbo
New member
Well... first I would do your due diligence and get under the truck and make sure you dont have any actual leaks...
Take the wheels off if needed and inspect lines and fitting for leaks.
Remove the spare, do the same on the 4 lines back there...
Inspect the caliper(s)... perhaps they need a refresh?
If all that looks good, bleed the system or take it to the dealership and have them bleed the brakes... should cost $115 ish to have them do it.
See if the problem persists... then and only then I would actually look into messing with the MC.
Take the wheels off if needed and inspect lines and fitting for leaks.
Remove the spare, do the same on the 4 lines back there...
Inspect the caliper(s)... perhaps they need a refresh?
If all that looks good, bleed the system or take it to the dealership and have them bleed the brakes... should cost $115 ish to have them do it.
See if the problem persists... then and only then I would actually look into messing with the MC.
I guess cali is a very expensive place to live . I have been there a few times. $3K to fix must be dealership.. if this is true they are trying to convince you to buy a new ride.
I found this http://www.autopartsfair.com/toyota...es=b2eba80e802f17134bc9785bb29f6911&seq_num=1...
expensive for a master cylinder $150 but this is usually not a big labor issue. scrap yard type part.
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I did a quick inspection last night but I'll take a more thorough look to make sure there arent any leaks. The fluid reservoir is still close to max so I dont think there's any fluid loss. Could air in the lines or a stuck caliper cause the brake pedal to slowly go to the floor even with the engine off?
looks like $1200 for new one. I have done this on other vehicles . bleed master first then hold Brake pedal down 1 / 2 way that keeps the fluid from leaking out closes the valve. then hook up the lines then do the brake bleed procedure rear first then front.
you still have to fix it to sell it for a reasonable amount. but not $3K..
Bumbo
New member
A little air feels like squish... has some rebound to it.
A lot of air probably feels like that, soft pedal, lot more air to compress.
Are you getting no resistance at all? Like what a pedal feels like when you are on it and someone cracked a bleeder?
Not sure about the caliper... perhaps if its holding pressure it should just be stuck? Might not change anything.
The cost of getting the system bleed at the dealer, around $110-125. Really not that bad.
Personally for that price I would just take it to a dealer; say the pedal feels squishy, hope they recommend a bleed, and have them do it.
If they can't you might get a "free" diagnostic out of it or at least a little insight into the problem, or a working truck if it was just air. If it comes back with more issues... you can always decline any work.
Either way, its going to cost you around the same for a basic diagnostic anyways... Not a lot of money to throw at a problem before diving into a master cylinder.
BlackWorksInc
New member
That is not the correct part for the vehicle (derp, sorry didn't see the "this is not actual part" caption on the photo lol), these use a hydraulically assisted master cylinder unit.
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...d=223429&cid=2&uid=260793&q=jtebt14r048017351
This is the parts diagram for the unit and there's only a couple options. You either get the entire unit (usually something like $2400 depending on the dealer pricing matrix) or you buy sections separate. You have to buy item "47201" in the diagram to get a new master cylinder portion, which then requires you to still cannibalize the accumulator pump and accumulator tank.
It's not a cheap repair, I went through this when my unit's master cylinder portion failed. Thankfully mine was covered under the extended warranty I had at the time.
the website states NOT THE ACTUAL PHOTO !
the say they do have one that should fit if he gives vin#.
also local scrap yard is best to avoid the $1200 just for part on an old truck.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Yeah I saw that and edited my post, my fault.
The only issue is that getting a scrap part is iffy, it may come from a "good" vehicle; but sometimes it's got more miles on it than the one you're replacing and it fails in a couple months and you're back at square one again. Not so much an issue on a $15 part that's easy to swap out, a bit more frustrating when it's a $300 part and you have to get more brake fluid and then re-bleed everything again; not including have the vehicle be out of commission until you have the part exchanged (assuming the yard you got it from does offer a guarantee).
I'm not saying don't use junkyard parts (hell I practically lived at Pick n' Pull when I had my 1st Gen RX7 and my shitty S10 Blazer), just that on components like these I tend to be a bit hesitant to throw in junkyard parts unless they are significantly lower mileage than what I am taking out.
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I would go to a local scrap yard and give it a try since it is so expensive for new. I do use scrap yards when this type stuff happens and others have also done this with success. one item very popular is the GM abs ECBM .. common failure on 10 plus year old vehicles.
on lower cost items I agree to buy new .
since you work for Toyota is it possible to get a kit to replace seals ?
could be its just worn rubber seals not the valve body .
I did in the past re-build brake control valves . the O rings had to be made properly to be used in this type operation .
on lower cost items I agree to buy new .
since you work for Toyota is it possible to get a kit to replace seals ?
could be its just worn rubber seals not the valve body .
I did in the past re-build brake control valves . the O rings had to be made properly to be used in this type operation .
BlackWorksInc
New member
I haven't had any luck in locating a "rebuild kit" for the master cylinder portion. Supposedly there is one out there according to one or two "members" (I use that loosely because for the most part they were vaguely offering services that they rebuilt these units but did not go into detail) but I haven't been able to verify their statements.
for the money they want for a replacement , finding those proper parts would be a great gift for the forum members.
could be a kit used for a GM master.
V8Man
Member
I have what you need.
[MENTION=121448]ooandyoo[/MENTION]
Here is something that may help.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/225172-4th-gen-late-master-cylinder-%24450.html
[MENTION=121448]ooandyoo[/MENTION]
Here is something that may help.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/225172-4th-gen-late-master-cylinder-%24450.html
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Thanks. I might be in. Did Toyota change the Master Cylinder in 2004?
I was also looking at a re-manufactured one on ebay that another member had success with. Although it says in the comments (thru 09/04) which I'm assuming means that itll fit on 4runners up til 9/2004?
ABS PUMP BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER BOOSTER ACTUATOR FOR TOYOTA 4RUNNER GX470 A930444 | eBay
Anyone know how difficult it is to replace? I'm considering doing the work myself.
