Matt's 07 - Build to the perfect Daily Driven wheeler

A note of thanks for your excellent writeup on replacing the front axle seals. Had no issues following it.

Thanks also for enabling me to scratch Fordyce off my wheeling to-do list. :-O
 
A note of thanks for your excellent writeup on replacing the front axle seals. Had no issues following it.

Thanks also for enabling me to scratch Fordyce off my wheeling to-do list. :-O

And that was just the lower section of the Fordyce getting to the emergency exit.
The upper section is what the trail is famous for.

I faired pretty good when I did the lower yrs ago on 32s.
 
Been awhile since I've been busy and not driving around the rig all that much due to remote work.

But having racked up some miles on a trip up north, figured it was a good time to get an oil change, diff fluids and Transmission drain and fill done. Engine oil was easy as usual.

Diff fluids, had been done with Amsoil Severe Gear oil about 30k miles ago, so figured I'd change them out, again with Amsoil Severe Gear oil. Front diff and transfer case were relatively clean, but the rear diff needed some new fluid as it was quite dark. Barely any metal shavings :thumb3:

Now, onto the most stressful thing I've been researching for the past two weeks. Having a transmission that kept holding gears, felt sluggish on shifts and kept shifting hard, I figured it might be time for a tranny fluid change. Being cheap, and struggling to find Toyota WS for less than $12/qt around me, I looked into my aftermarket options, which led to Valvoline Maxxlife and Amsoil ATF. Being the cheaper of the two, I looked into Maxxlife.

The good: people have used aftermarket Toyota WS (like Maxxlife and Amsoil).
The bad: The people who have used it seem either sell their rig soon after without issues, stopped using forums, or have 20-30k miles of use.

Well, I ended up biting the bullet for Valvoline Maxxlife. Immediate results were impressive and I hope they stay that way. Or at least my transmission doesn't grenade because I didn't use Toyota WS. Shifts are super smooth and quick. Barely even noticeable. Will report back (hopefully with good news) later on.
 
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How to drain and fill the sealed 4th gen 4runner Automatic Transmission

After tons of digging, there isn't really any clear information on how to drain and fill the transmission, and the info that is out there is so scattered, so I'll consolidate that information here.

The method I took was using the OBD2 port and jumping pins 4 and 13 to throw the car in diag mode.

This thread has solid pics on the first post, of the specific pins to jump: How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission | Tacoma World

Tools:
- 24mm socket for fill port
- 14mm socket for drain port
- 5mm allen key for overflow port
- Toyota WS fluid of YOUR CHOICE
- fluid pump
- paper clip or wire with the ends stripped

Steps to drain:
1. Crack open your fill port first! If you drain first and can't open your fill port, your SOL.
2. Open the overflow drain port
3. Drain your ATF fluid. It's said that the pan holds around 3qts. Mine came closer to 3.5qts.
4. Once drained, tighten back the drain port (leave the fill port and overflow port open)

Steps to Pump fluid back in the transmission:
5. Pump Toyota WS fluid back into the transmission until some fluid starts to come out of the overflow port
6. loosely tighten the bolt back in the overflow port
7. Add about an extra 0.5 qt of fluid after putting the over flow bolt back in.

Now checking your AT fluid level:
8. With the car off, in park, jump your obd2 with pins 4 and 13
9. Turn on the engine
10. Cycle from P -> R -> N -> D -> N -> R -> P a few times just to cycle the fluid
11. Shut off the vehicle when you've shifted back into park and cycled a few times
12. Turn on the engine
13. Shift from P -> N (now we start trying to trigger the transmission diagnosis mode)
14. Shift from N -> D -> N about 6+ times (It should be 6, but I didn't count), until the AT Temp oil light turns on solid. At this point, the AT Temp oil light SHOULD turn off about 2 seconds later.
15. Once the AT Temp oil light turns off, shift into park.
16. If the steps were done correctly, when you shift into park, the AT Temp oil light should turn on solid for about 2 seconds and turn off. Now is the waiting game.

Once the AT Temp light turns ON:
17. Jump under your rig and crack open the overflow port
If fluid is draining out of the overflow port, let it drain until it trickles. Once it is trickling, put the overflow bolt back in and you've correctly set your AT fluid level. You're Done!
If fluid is NOT draining out the overflow port, shut off the vehicle and add more fluid

Meanings of AT Temp oil Indication light AFTER SUCCESSFULLY getting into the transmission diagnosis mode:
Light Off: The AT temp is too cold, let it warm up longer. Mine took about 8 minutes to warm up. I've read some people's have taken up to 15minutes.
Light On: The AT temp is in the correct range to check its level
Light flashing: The AT temp is too hot. Turn off truck and try again later.

Lessons Learned:
- If the AT Temp oil Light remains on and doesn't turn off after 2 seconds, it could mean your AT fluid is already too warm to check. Let your truck sit to let the AT fluid cool down and try again after a few hours
- You have roughly an 8 minute window check the fluid range (I tested this by letting my fill port stay open until it started flashing), plenty of time to check it
 
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Been a long time since I've last posted here, but have quite a lot of changes with the truck.

First and foremost, I've only put about 6000miles since my drain and fill of the transmission and so far, I have 1 minor complaint… why didn't I do this sooner? Transmission shifts super smooth and doesn't hesitate like it used to, especially going in and out of over drive gear.

With the transmission fluid drain and fill, I've been logging my transmission temps every time I take her for a spin using Torque Pro and a fomula I found online found here. While I'm not sure if the calculation is 100% accurate, I can say for a fact that when I did my transmission drain and fill, using the OBD2 override and temp ranges I found online, torque was reading the same temps when it would turn off the trans light and start flashing.

Now, interesting find(to me at least), was that if you pop her in neutral, trans temps would go up. I personally thought it would take the load off and cool it down faster. Call me surprised. From there, if you're doing any hills, it's best to downshift. If you let it stay in overdrive and shift by itself, the fluid will heat up quick. I personally saw 245f+ doing so. On the flip side, if I shifted down a gear (position 4 - next to drive), temps would drop immediately to a steady 180-190f

On top of that, I changed my spark plugs to Denso Iridium Long-Life plugs (SK20HR11). Was quite shocked to see my factory plugs were quite worn. Definitely noticed the truck was a bit peppier and the computer said I got .2mpg more! Money well spent...?

However, I negated those gains putting on some new Falken Wildpeak AT3W's 285/70/17, E-loads. So far, I've put about 10k miles on them, and they've been nothing but impressive. Handles dry, rain and snow well. Ice, not so much, but still much better than my Nitto Terragrapplers G2!
 
Now, interesting find(to me at least), was that if you pop her in neutral, trans temps would go up. I personally thought it would take the load off and cool it down faster. Call me surprised. From there, if you're doing any hills, it's best to downshift. If you let it stay in overdrive and shift by itself, the fluid will heat up quick. I personally saw 245f+ doing so. On the flip side, if I shifted down a gear (position 4 - next to drive), temps would drop immediately to a steady 180-190f

Here are some screenshots of Torque's readings on Trans Temp when going up a long extended grade (i-15 east).
This one was with leaving it in drive and letting the 4runner switch gears by itself. Once it hit 245, it got too hot for my liking so I switched to "manual" mode. It could be possible that temps would've gotten even hotter than this.
v2NOPYg.jpg


This is just moments after shifting from "D" to "4", significant drop in temps.
PXEVFm1.jpg


And here you can see that the temps were starting to slowly stabilize.
rK9qunf.jpg


Edit:
Something I noticed too was that coolant temp dropped as well going into "4". Interesting.
 
That is an interesting find. Wonder why the temps would be higher just simply having it in 'D' instead of '4'.

Here are some screenshots of Torque's readings on Trans Temp when going up a long extended grade (i-15 east).
This one was with leaving it in drive and letting the 4runner switch gears by itself. Once it hit 245, it got too hot for my liking so I switched to "manual" mode. It could be possible that temps would've gotten even hotter than this.
v2NOPYg.jpg


This is just moments after shifting from "D" to "4", significant drop in temps.
PXEVFm1.jpg


And here you can see that the temps were starting to slowly stabilize.
rK9qunf.jpg


Edit:
Something I noticed too was that coolant temp dropped as well going into "4". Interesting.
 
That is an interesting find. Wonder why the temps would be higher just simply having it in 'D' instead of '4'.

In regards to coolant, I'm not sure at all.

As for trans temps, one thing to keep in mind is that in "D", it would continue to change gears, shifting from 3 (sometimes), 4 and Overdrive, and continue to do so...

I-15 is a combination of long up hills, with lots of corners, and many flat areas. Anytime I'm going up hill, it'll downshift to 4, and once it slowly flattens out, it'll shift back to overdrive, then downshift to 4 when the grade starts again... rinse and repeat. Same for corners, downshift to 4, upshift to OD, downshift to 4...

As for keeping it out of OD, I've kept reading on the forums that it's best to keep it out of OD when towing or doing grades to help with trans temps. Why it raises the trans temp, i'm not too sure on. But my best guess is that it puts a huge load on the torque converter, causing temps to rise.
 
July 2021 - Eastern Sierras Trip

Those that follow me already know that I love the Eastern Sierras, and since I've had a dry spell in going remote , I had to hit the Eastern Sierras. I did do some camping at established sites with some friends, but it's just not the same.

From the Bay, our major stops were Lone Pine, Reward Mine and Bishop.

First night, got there around 3am, so we just slept in the car
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Alittle scouting around the area. Getting a little more into exploring mines.
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Leaving Lone Pine in the rear view mirror, we headed towards reward mine on a back-road.
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Inside reward mine. Absolutely amazing spot. We spent probably an hour just walking around the mine shafts before we headed back and left the tunnel.
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Mandatory Shot...
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And our last night before getting back to reality, we hit the hills of Bishop and set up camp. What a view...
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Goodridge 2-21186 Braided Steel Brake Lines

Few weeks after my Eastern Sierras trip, I was on my way to the bike park to hit some jumps driving in rush hour traffic. Some d*ckhead cut me off while I was driving in the Carpool lane, and I slammed my brakes. Immediately, the pedal went to the floor and I had no braking power. Immediately hit the emergency brake while downshifting to the lowest gear and steering into the emergency lane. Luckily, I managed to swerve out of the way and avoid rear ending the guy... After getting home, I ordered some Goodridge 2-21186 Braided Steel Brake Lines.

Now... I will say, braking feel has improved significantly, but I am debating pulling the fronts off and replacing them with OEM lines, as the 2-21186's are 2" longer than OEM in both the front and back. The issue with having them 2" longer in the front is that the lines are rubbing on the frame so I might have issues wearing them down in the long run. That said, the rear's are good for LT.... (If I ever decide to go down that route).

First time in awhile seeing my 4runner being on a flat bed...
PBDkzJv.jpg


Installing the brake lines.
One comment I will make is that the included banjo bolt is a bit larger than the OEM one, so it will not fit in the notch that is on the OEM rear calipers. To get around this issue, I had the fitting pointing up, so that there wouldn't be a chance were a rock or branch could snag on it (if it were facing down).

HNRnClE.jpg

Here, we see the OEM rear brake line going through the notch, pointing directly at the rotor...
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Here is the Goodridge line mounted and pointed up since it was too large to fit in the notch.
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September 2021 - Hollister hills SVRA

Had a nice little sunday drive at hollister hills. Break in the buddies truck and push the limits of my buddies subaru. Was quite impressed. Outback did 90% of what the Taco did without the locker. Only struggles it had were it's open diff, and combination of approach/departure angles + ground clearance. Otherwise, with the right line, it would stay with the Taco

4zK7OkY.jpg

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Little flex action
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December 2022 - Utah Baby!

Had an end of the year trip to the big 5 in Utah and made plenty of stops along the way. Trips like these make me fall in love with my 4runner again.

However, I had some issues along the way, which will be in the next post. Power Steering Pump failed, CV axle popped out and tore at the boot and Upper control arm nut some how sheered and stripped the threads????

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Utah Damages...

With 176.9k on the rig, I wasn't surprised things would break, but unfortunate that it had to happen on this trip. Lesson learned, expected the unexpected...

What broke is:
- UCA nut some how sheered and stripped the threads
- Power steering pump failed and started leaking
- CV axle popped out and tore the boot with it


For quite some time, I've been chasing a popping sound in my suspension but I could never figure out where it was coming from, I checked lower control arm bushings, inner/outer tie rods, ball joints… Greased the UCA, LBJ, and UBJ thinking it would help. I even brought her to an alignment 3 times for them to tighten up my suspension… and I finally figured out what it was on my way to Vegas...

Coming down i-5, I was about 30 minutes outside Bakersfield, where traffic just came to a sudden halt. Slammed my brakes, and heard a loud pop. Thinking it was normal, I continued to drive on, but once I got into Bakersfield, I immediately felt the front end feeling loose and getting an even louder pop when braking. Pulled into a parking lot for dinner. While waiting for food, I looked under the truck, to find that my drivers side UCA nut had backed off about 1cm and I could visually see stripped threads. Luckily, only a few blocks away was a Toyota dealer who had the nut and I just tightened a new nut on top of the existing stripped nut to at least hold on for the remainder of my trip. I have a new nut and bolt, but need to find more time to swap it.
yOMHbRv.jpg


Power Steering Pump
Ordered a Cardone 965363 Power Steering pump since it came with a gasket kit to replace my power steering pump. Something I questioned too was, do I have an OEM Steering pump? Anyways, I will say that the power steering pump was very easy to swap on our trucks.
Leaky Power Steering pump...
C55wMvj.jpg

Pull the belt off...
uU7gmsO.jpg

Cardone unit next to the old unit.
CGCxglA.jpg



CV Axle
Having the cheap-a$$ asian in me, I opted to take a chance on Cardone 665235 HD CV axles. I knew going in, I would possibly encounter 2 problems, but those issues would easily be remedied (in my mind). 1) the CV axle would bind at full droop and 2) CV axles would break wheeling. For issue 1, I figured I could just return them if the CV's bind at full droop. For issue 2, these CV's have lifetime warranty. If they break, well I could get another set... And surprisingly, (you'd figure I'd notice by now with all the rebooting I did), I had an aftermarket CV axle that I had been wheeling with all this time and it didn't fail. So I have my hopes up.
CV straight out of the box!

For anyone that wants to know why I went specifically with the Cardone 665235 HD CV's, is because after a ton of digging, I was reading how the Napa CV's back in the day were pretty decent replacements. Not OEM strong, but one of the better aftermarket options for our trucks. There were still a ton of mixed data points on the Napa CV's so I did quite a lot of digging, because the ones listed on their site were offered by a company called Surtrack, and I couldn't find any data points on them. After hours of research, I end up finding out that Napa had changed CV distributors over the years, and the ones that seemed to be consistently good were the Cardone 665235 HD's.

kN3Z3if.jpg

Tulip design...
TsXb8xE.jpg

Here's the f'd up axle that I used Gorilla tape as a make shift boot for the remainder of the trip. Also, it was interesting to me that it's a non-OEM CV, with a non-tulip design inner axle, and I didn't have binding issues or it breaking on me this whole time that I've wheeled it... Maybe I don't wheel it hard enough???
y3mtRCE.jpg


Sliders were also being neglected, so I took some time to sand them down and repaint them. Figured I'd be busy working on the power steering pump + CV's long enough to let the paint dry...
f'n rust...
DVMAIXT.jpg

Some of that rust removed...
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What rust?
6xHzk43.jpg
 
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Trying to restore my Driver side headlight...

Ever since I've own this rig, the driver side headlight is the only one that seems to be having issues fading. I tried restoring it at an earlier time, and it did last for some time, but didn't hit it with a UV coat. One day, I happened to be looking through Amazon and came across Cerakote Headlight Restoration kit. The name "Cerakote" definitely got my attention, but with a solid amount of reviews and $17 shipped... What the hell. Had it primed next day.

Read instructions. Quite straight forward.
1. Use their oxidization remover
2. Hit it with their 2000 then 3000 2" sand paper
3. Seal it with the Ceramic coating

In the box... 2 pairs of gloves, 2x 2000 grit, 2x 3000 grit, 1 hand sander, 8x Oxidization remover pads, and 2x ceramic clear coat pads
mgPwb9k.jpg


How the headlight looked before I started. Pictures don't do it justice, but it was quite yellow and fogged up. You can see from my previous photos.
s53SKYf.jpg

After 2 oxidation pads. Already made a huge difference. Still a bit foggy.
F256o7H.jpg


Hitting it with the 2000 and 3000 grit. My only complaints are that I wish they included a lower grit paper like 1000 and the hand sander block is too soft making it quite hard to use and put some elbow into. I fortunately had some 800 and 1000 laying around, so I started with that, moving onto the 2000 then 3000. Sanded for a solid 30minutes. After sanding and cleaning it down
2cSQSBW.jpg


...And after wiping the ceramic clear coat. :zoom:
I must say, I'm quite impressed. It looks brand new! While it looks good now, only time will tell how it holds.
cWlbq4J.jpg
 
Poor Man's DIY Tie down points - Less than $3

Every camp trip, I (generally) run into 2 issues:
1. The trunk's rear compartments suck at holding "things"
2. When the trunk isn't fully loaded, things shift... alot...

To combat this, I was thinking of ways to add more tie down points in the trunk. Went outside and took off a plastic tie down point and found out they go into thin gauge metal. So I went to Home depot with the plastic tie down point in hand and came out with probably the cheapest mod you can do.

FYI, I did also think about purchasing D-ring tie down points, but:
1. Home depot didn't have them in stock
2. I would need to buy more hardware, like a spacer to space it out away from the body panel
3. Being so far in the corner, I didn't think an eyelet that could fold flat against the panel would make that much difference. Maybe at a later time I could opt for the d-ring style tie down point

Price break down:
- 2x $0.84 - 5/16 x 3-1/4 inch Eyebolt with nut
- 2x $0.14 - 5/16 Hex nut
- 4x $0.16 - 1/4" flat zinc washers

A whooping $2.62 before taxes. $2.80~ after taxes... if you really cared.
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1. Remove the factory plastic tie down points, by pulling on the corners of it. It will pull back and easily pop out.
Here's the tie down point "closed"
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Tie down point open
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2. Once you have the factory plastic tie down point out, remove the tail light access cover.

3. Tighten a nut all the way to the eyelet (or however much you want the eyelet to stick out. Put a washer behind it. And push it in through the factory plastic tie down point hole.

4. With access to the bolt from the tail light access hole, put a washer on the bolt, and then the 2nd nut on. Tighten it on, and you're done.
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New Pads and UCA bolt + Nut replacement

Finally got around to doing my brake pads and swapping out the UCA bolt + nut.

For my brake pads, I went from Bosch BOSCH BP976 (front) and CENTRIC 30006060 (Rear) to Wagner SX976 and Wagner SX606. I've only had this pad setup for over a year and started to dislike them so much that I looked for something else. They would have great initial bite, but fade pretty quickly.

The Wagner's are heavy/severe duty brake pads, so I'm hoping that they won't fade as easily. That said, I've broken them in pretty aggressively, and they have excellent initial bite and pretty consistent brake feedback. Haven't gone fast enough to get brake fade yet.

T9XVX9Y.jpg


Now as far as my UCA bolt + Nut replacement goes, short story is that I was heading towards Vegas, slammed the brakes, heard/felt a loud pop and suddenly the suspension felt loose. Pulled in a parking lot for dinner and saw the nut backed out and could see the stripped threads. Put a nut on the back of it to hold for the remainder of the trip.

Also, if anyone's curious, it's a M14x1.5 nut! I was scavenging the forums to find a replacement nut locally, but ended up getting it from a nearby Toyota store (luckily). Put it behind the old nut, and held for the rest of the trip, some 1500+ miles.

Here's how the UCA bolt looked. Has the old nut backed by a new nut.
SaBHtRJ.jpg


I attempted to cut the nut and try to split it with a BFH and a punch, but after using a dremel with a diamond cutting wheel for awhile, (which wasn't working), my neighbor came over, told me I couldn't get it off with that and came back with an angle grinder. I cut the end of the bolt off, and used a punch to hit the bolt in, so the nut would slide right off. It was difficult, but I had enough space to get a flat head behind the nut and pry it off.

Here we see the bolt completely stripped, and the end of the bolt cut off.
3XgnZC4.jpg


My attempt to cut it with the diamond cutting wheel
KL7KO75.jpg


New bolt/nut next to old bolt/nut
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Finally out with the bad bolt, in with the new
4GESrVe.jpg
 
One thing you might look at for headlights when that ceramic coating wears off is buying 2k clear off Amazon or your local body shop supply place. Sand both headlights to 800 grit to remove all the small pits and scratches, clean and apply 3 coats of 2k clear coat. I did mine earlier this year and they still look brand new
 
One thing you might look at for headlights when that ceramic coating wears off is buying 2k clear off Amazon or your local body shop supply place. Sand both headlights to 800 grit to remove all the small pits and scratches, clean and apply 3 coats of 2k clear coat. I did mine earlier this year and they still look brand new

Good call out. Didn't know about this 2k stuff. Might have to give this a shot, although the ceramic coat seems pretty promising.
 

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