David's Build Thread 2003 SR5 4WD

[debrucer]

Purchased my 2003 SR5 V8 4WD in July 2025 with 215K (+/-) and drove it less than 200 miles from the US to my new home in Baja California before dropping her off at the fabrication shop for custom bumpers. Ten weeks later, the "5 day" task was completed.

View my pictures of the results on Flickr (click the link):

T4R Bumper Results | Flickr

That's all for today. The requirement to set up photos offsite took a while to figure out and I've run out of time. Today on the agenda includes a trip to an upholstery shop to investigate converting the rear, 3 passenger seat, into a two passenger setup with my c02 bottle mounted vertically in the center position. At the moment it is laying in the back and relatively unsecured in a horizonal position. It needs to be vertical to use it, and it's heavy to be farting around with it when "airing up". Am I using that term correctly?

There is a list of things I want to do, and I've been collecting parts for three months now. So, more to come.

Follow along. Make me a friend and I will follow you, too. If you are in Baja California, let's plan to meet and perhaps we will go on the January trip being planned in the Facebook T4R forum.

Cheers!

 

[debrucer]

Here is a picture of the C02 bottle permanently mounted in the center rear seat position. The original estimate to do the job was 1500 pesos. Of course, Gringo here was charged more. It was estimated at four hours, and actually took three while I waited. The excuse for the increase was the welding required to eliminate the center position. Purely a Gringo thing. Still, I like it. It's only money



Here are two photos of the rear area showing why folding second row seats are no longer really usable.





Here is an updated front view photo with the winch installed and the plate on a flip up bracket.



And finally for this post are three pictures of the temporary location of the rear tag.







This is going to be relocated as soon as I get the reverse camera wiring sorted out. It is way too complicated to mount the tag on a swinging part and expect the wires to last any length of time. I'm currently thinking of mounting it directly to the tailgate above the gas cans. I'm also in the process of adding two LED tag lamps. Until then I can't safely run at night... on the street anyway.

 

[debrucer]

The originally scheduled first outting was for the Baja 400 in August. Missed it. The next scheduled trip was for the SCORE Baja 1000 which is taking place starting Monday. Not going to make this either. Three of my buddies are there now

Here is the list of schedule maintenance:

1 - Engine oil - done
2 - Coolant - flush and fill
3 - Auto transmission - drain and fill
4 - Transfer case - drain and fill
5 - Front differential - drain and fill
6 - Rear differential - drain and fill
7 - Power steering - partial extract and refill
8 - Brake fluid - replace bleeders with quick bleeder screws and bleed
9 - Washer fluid* - fill

* Purchased relocation components expecting new bumper to reveal OEM washer fluid container. Bumper conceals it, so not changing.

Grease points (mostly with NLGI #2 white lithium grease)

1 - drive shaft slip yokes
2 - u-joints
3 - tie rod ends and ball joints
4 - door hinges and latches
5 - weatherstrip

Other little jobs:

1 - relocate A/C drain hose water discharge
2 - some form of rust protection TBD
3 - replace PCV value
4 - replace air filter (done) two spares in parts supply
5 - replace cabin filter (done)
6 - Torque suspension components that have to be done on the ground

 

[debrucer]

Wiring tasks in progress or to be completed soon

These are the current wiring tasks taking place:

1 - Extending battery cables to allow quick disconnect terminals to be added.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54914792251/in/dateposted-public/" title="Relay"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54914792251_f6d644da7e_t.jpg" width="100" height="86" alt="Relay"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

There are the quick disconnect terminals that I plan on using to attach new accessories to the battery.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54915045209/in/dateposted-public/" title="Relay"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54915045209_85d3f5a8fb_t.jpg" width="100" height="100" alt="Relay"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

These are 4 AWG butt connectors to be used to attach a short length of 4 AWG cable to existing battery cable after cutting off the OEM connectors.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54913930157/in/dateposted-public/" title="Relay"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54913930157_53af292384_t.jpg" width="56" height="100" alt="Relay"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

These are the assembled terminals attached to a short length of 4 AWG wire. 4 AWG wire was too small to secure the terminals firmly, so a six-inch strip of copper foil was wrapped around the bare wire. Result is very firm connection.

2 - Winch is installed and connections made to control box. No connection to battery until quick disconnect terminals are added.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54914141457/in/dateposted-public/" title="Winch and control box"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54914141457_8e8801ddd2_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Winch and control box"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Control box to winch completed. 0/1 AWG to battery pending terminal installation.

3 - Dash cam with two front and one rear cam (in addition to reverse cam) Adding to an always-on 12 volt circuit to take advantage of all dash cam features.

4 - Reverse camera (trigger wire not satisfactory - adding relay)

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54914811721/in/album-72177720330187795" title="Tag Lamp and Camera"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54914811721_497d8e1afb_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Tag Lamp and Camera"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

This is a picture of the tag with both reverse camera and tag lamps installed (not yet wired)

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54915009358/in/album-72177720330187795" title="Relay"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54915009358_7f39c99261_t.jpg" width="56" height="100" alt="Relay"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

This is a picture of the relay ready for installation. The reverse lamps are LEDs and they do not send enough voltage to the reverse trigger relay to turn the camera on. The camera is functioning confirmed by manually turning on in the stereo head unit and slipping in reverse. It won't do the initial activation though, hence the relay.

One additional complication to the wiring is that the video cable and trigger power source wires have to be extended to allow them to reach from inside the rear area to the camera mounted on the gas can mount. I hate having to make this thing movable; but there really is no place, no way, to mount it solidly on the rear hatch.

5 - DC to AC power inverter being added in rear (connected with 8 AWG cable)

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54915168674/in/dateposted-public/" title="Power inverter"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54915168674_e707a8ee0b_t.jpg" width="100" height="75" alt="Power inverter"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

To be mounted in the rear cargo area with 8 AWG wire. Not sure if directly to the battery or through the power distribution system. Primary need today is to recharge the battery on my impact driver.

6 - New front bumper lights (probably position 5 on power distribution panel)

Still looking for lamps. Prefer to get new ones that match the existing ones. Haven't found them so far.

7 - Rear tag lamps (two white LEDs, in progress)

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/203693445@N04/54914792311/in/album-72177720330187795/" title="Relay"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54914792311_bd8ae742a8_t.jpg" width="56" height="100" alt="Relay"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

There are the tag lamps being wired into an always-on circuit with head/parking lights. You can see them mounted on tag in item 4 (above)

There is another little SNAFU with the lights. Mexican law says they need to be red lights. I've never seen red tag lamps, and I'm going with white. Surely I won't see a Mexican jail over that little infraction.

My story will be hard enough to explain to a Spanish speaking police officer since I do not speak much Spanish, am a resident of Mexico with a California driver's license and South Dakota license plates and registration. Not looking forward to jail down here

 

[debrucer]

MICTUNING Power Distribution Panel

Truck has an 8 position switch installed with five positions currently occupied.

#1, 2 and 5 are currently open.

3 - Ham radio

4 - Hood lights (windshield edge of hood)

5 - (open)

6 - Light bar (on bumper crash bar)

7 - Chase lights (amber) center rear of roof rack

8 - Rack lights

Comments:

Currently sold 8 position switch has these items - missing on mine. Must be an earlier version

No USB on panel

No Antenna

No 100 amp circuit breaker

The associated fuse box is mounted on top of OEM fuse box which is very difficult to open because of this location.

Overland Equipped sells a very nice bracket for $70. when I get further along in these tasks and have seen the inside of the OEM fuse box, I plan to go this way.

 

[debrucer]

ICON 4Runner Suspension System Stages (1–7)

It appears that I have either a stage 6 or 7 Icon suspension; but that may be technically wrong for the following reason:

Having ICON billet upper control arms (UCAs) strongly suggests you have a higher-end kit (Stage 6 or 7), but it doesn’t guarantee that it’s Stage 7. Here’s why:

How ICON Stages Work

ICON sells their kits in predefined “stages” (1 through 7), but many people later upgrade individual components — like adding UCAs, bypass shocks, or CDC adjusters — without replacing the whole system. So it’s possible to have, for example, a Stage 4 system plus billet UCAs and not technically be Stage 7.

Here is the breakdown of what each stage contains (Applies to 2003–2009 and 2010+ 4Runners, with slight variations).

Stage 1

Contents:

ICON front coilovers (non-reservoir)

ICON rear shocks (non-reservoir)

Purpose: Entry-level upgrade; improves ride quality and adds mild lift (≈2–3”).

Use case: Daily driving, light off-roading.

Stage 2

Adds:

Remote-reservoir rear shocks for better cooling and damping consistency.

Purpose: Improves off-road performance and handling under load.

Use case: Moderate off-roading, overland setups.

Stage 3

Adds:

Remote-reservoir front coilovers (vs. Stage 1’s non-reservoir).

Adjustable front ride height.

Purpose: Enhanced damping control and fade resistance.

Use case: Frequent off-roading, long rough trails.

Stage 4

Adds:

Rear upper and lower billet links (or tubular links) for articulation and strength.

Purpose: Greater suspension travel and durability off-road.

Use case: Heavy trail use, rock crawling.

Stage 5

Adds:

Compression Damping Control (CDC) Valve shocks front and rear — external adjusters for fine-tuning ride stiffness.

Purpose: On-the-fly adjustment for street comfort vs. trail firmness.

Use case: Balanced performance for mixed street/off-road use.

Stage 6 is the level that I believe is on my truck.

Stage 6

Adds:

Rear remote reservoirs with CDC adjusters (if not already included).

Adjustable rear track bar for axle centering under articulation.

Purpose: Precision handling and full adjustability under load and flex.

Use case: Serious off-roaders, overlanders carrying gear or towing.

Stage 7

Adds:

ICON billet upper control arms (UCAs)

Omega bypass shocks (in some kits) — triple-adjustable for compression and rebound tuning.

Purpose: Maximum suspension travel, tunability, and performance.

Use case: Hardcore off-road, racing-level performance.

 

[debrucer]

Important Details of Backup View Camera

The basic installation of a backup camera is very simple per the details in this first document:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54931024001/in/dateposted/" title="Reverse camera photos"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54931024001_bde7997b38.jpg" width="470" height="500" alt="Reverse camera photos"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Unfortunately, the LED bulbs in the taillight do not draw enough voltage required to activate the reverse camera through the Pioneer stereo head unit. The solution, short of just switching back to a conventical bulb, is to add a relay. Here is the wiring diagram for the relay:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54931270119/in/photostream/" title="Reverse camera photos"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54931270119_db65264fe0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Reverse camera photos"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Finally, the following page shows the end point for each of the six wires associated identified in the previous picture:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54931270289/in/photostream/" title="Reverse camera photos"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54931270289_6980c6a3a3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Reverse camera photos"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Not very interesting information; but hopefully this will help someone else.

I have been waiting for three days now to receive a "Tap-a-fuse, circuit creator" that uses a "mini" fuse. Finally received one today. It's starting to rain, and expected to rain all day tomorrow. It may be Sunday before I get this working with the relay.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54924455537/in/album-72177720330187795" title="fuse-tap"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54924455537_b4aff8d192_n.jpg" width="320" height="210" alt="fuse-tap"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

It is working manually, in that I can turn the camera on, as wired, by going to the configuration settings of the head unit. It needs to be totally automatic and happen when I shift into reverse.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54928446698/in/dateposted/" title="Two taps used"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54928446698_48ff807376.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Two taps used"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Empty position in fuse box. Bottom row, third from the left. Second tap on power outlet position, Second row, fourth from the left.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54928446623/in/photostream/" title="Two taps used"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54928446623_ba85de1d74.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Two taps used"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Five amp mini fuses are currently in both taps. One tap is for reverse camera. Second tap is for the dash camera. Both taps are currently producing 12.58 volts, always on, key on or off. Update: There is no need for the always on tap on the reverse camera since you cannot put the car in reverse without the ignition on and a foot on the brake. It's there now, and staying unless it causes a problem down the road.

There is also some tweaking to the wires as the camera is mounted on the gas can rack on the rear bumper which swings to open the deck lid. Wires will be extended and a strain relief will be added. I have a grommet and will get a hole saw to drill under the edge of the hatch outside of the hatch weatherstrip. The wires, and the wires for the tag lamps, will be dressed and long enough to swing with the gas can mount.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/54931230393/in/album-72177720330187795" title="Reverse camera photos"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54931230393_98c4ef6025.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Reverse camera photos"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Then I will dress the wires. The majority of the wires outside the truck are already covered with heat shrink wrap. There are some very fine wires in that bundle coming from the tag lamps: 22 AWG, I would guess. I don't want them flexing every time I move the gas cans.

This is the wiring though. Hope someone finds it useful.

It is working as it should now.

 

[debrucer]

Quick Guide: Which Cleaner to Use on MAF, Throttle Body, IAC, and EGR (2UZ-FE)

Over the years, I’ve seen a ton of people gunk up a sensor (or straight-up kill one) by grabbing the wrong spray can. The 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8 is pretty forgiving, but a couple of its sensors are not.
Here’s a simple rule-of-thumb chart you can save, screenshot, tattoo on your forearm, whatever — so you always know which cleaner goes where.
⸻
Rule of Thumb: What Spray Cleaner Goes on What
MAF Cleaner
• Use on: MAF sensor only
• Why: It’s super gentle and evaporates clean.
• Do NOT use on: Throttle body, IAC valve, EGR valve
• Reason: Too weak to cut carbon, and other cleaners can destroy the MAF’s hot wire.
⸻
Throttle Body Cleaner
• Use on: Throttle body, Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)
• Why: Strong enough to dissolve carbon but safe for coated throttle plates.
• Do NOT use on: MAF sensor
• Reason: Leaves residue on the delicate MAF element and can wreck it.
⸻
Carb Cleaner / EGR Cleaner
• Use on: EGR valve, EGR passages, anything with heavy carbon buildup
• Why: Strongest solvent in the bunch — melts baked-on carbon.
• Do NOT use on: MAF sensor or even the throttle body unless the label specifically says “sensor safe”
• Reason: Too aggressive for fine electronics and coated surfaces.
⸻
Electrical Contact Cleaner
• Use on: Electrical connectors, plugs, terminals
• Why: Evaporates instantly, leaves zero residue.
• Do NOT use on: MAF/IAC/EGR internal components
• Reason: It won’t remove carbon — it’s only for cleaning electrical contacts.
⸻
Bonus notes:
• O₂ sensors: don’t spray anything on them. If fouled, replace.
• Battery terminals: use battery cleaner or a baking-soda solution — not MAF or throttle cleaner.
• If the can doesn’t say it’s safe for sensors, assume it’s NOT.
⸻

 

[jmoore15]

Purchased my 2003 SR5 V8 4WD in July 2025 with 215K (+/-) and drove it less than 200 miles from the US to my new home in Baja California before dropping her off at the fabrication shop for custom bumpers. Ten weeks later, the "5 day" task was completed.

View my pictures of the results on Flickr (click the link):

T4R Bumper Results | Flickr

That's all for today. The requirement to set up photos offsite took a while to figure out and I've run out of time. Today on the agenda includes a trip to an upholstery shop to investigate converting the rear, 3 passenger seat, into a two passenger setup with my c02 bottle mounted vertically in the center position. At the moment it is laying in the back and relatively unsecured in a horizonal position. It needs to be vertical to use it, and it's heavy to be farting around with it when "airing up". Am I using that term correctly?

There is a list of things I want to do, and I've been collecting parts for three months now. So, more to come.

Follow along. Make me a friend and I will follow you, too. If you are in Baja California, let's plan to meet and perhaps we will go on the January trip being planned in the Facebook T4R forum.

Cheers!

very nice!

 

[debrucer]

I was planning to join a group trip from San Felipe south for four days starting near the end of January. When I bought the 4Runner, it was represented as being *trip-ready*. It wasn’t—and it still isn’t. Beyond routine maintenance that hadn’t been completed, there are several other issues that need to be addressed.

I’ve decided to remove the second-row seats and build a platform that will sit level with the existing drawer system. As part of that work, I’ll be relocating the CO₂ tank to a safer location. I’m also adding a steel MOLLE panel behind the front seats so everything in the rear cargo area is properly contained. If the tank were to become a projectile in an accident, it won’t endanger the occupants.

Carrying LPG (propane) presents another challenge. It needs to be stored outside the vehicle. The rear bumper locations are already spoken for, and the roof isn’t practical—nor is it ideal in the Baja sun due to heat. My plan is to fabricate a reflective, ventilated box that can be rack-mounted. More fabrication, more work, and another reminder that the vehicle isn’t ready for extended travel yet.

There’s also a significant amount of wiring still to be completed. The winch hasn’t been hooked up, and that’s a non-negotiable item for this type of travel.

Communications were another weak point. I was told at purchase that the radio in the glove box was a ham radio (VHF/UHF). It turned out to be a CB—specifically AM/CB/SSB. That discovery sent me down the rabbit hole of learning about vehicle communications.

At this point, I’ve added two handheld FRS radios for crew-to-spotter communication. GMRS is illegal in Mexico, but FRS is permitted and can interoperate with GMRS units when properly configured. For GPS tracking and emergency messaging where there’s no cell service, I’ve added a Spot X. To round things out, I’ve purchased a 5-watt dual-band VHF/UHF handheld ham radio.

Next up is getting everything properly configured and programmed where necessary—and, just as importantly, learning how and when to use each system. The head unit supports Apple CarPlay, and my iPhone is new enough to support emergency satellite communication. That’s another system I need to learn before relying on it.

There’s a lot going on, and it can be confusing at times. This post is mostly a snapshot of where the build currently stands—and why the January trip isn’t happening.

---

 

[debrucer]

Radios became a bigger issue when ChatGPT wrongly identified a Ham radio that came with the car when purchased as an AM/CB/SSB. Between that and me stupidly deciding that a pair of hand-held radios should be FRS units because operating GMRS is illegal in Mexico where I live a large percentage of the time, corrective measures have been taken.

I purchased a TYT TH-7900 50W Dual Band VHF UHF Amateur Transceiver 2M 70CM Cross-Band to replace the falsely identified CB unit. That unit turns out to be a Yaesu FT-2800 which is a 65 W single band 144 MHz device. If is an older model that does not appear to be currently sold.

I returned the FRS handheld walkie-talkies and purchased a pair of Baofeng UV-9G GMRS IP67 Waterproof Outdoors Two Way Radios.

To complete the setup, I have purchased a Yaesu Original FT-65 FT-65R 144/440 Dual-Band Rugged & Compact Handheld Transceiver, 5W. Slightly ironic that the replaced base station was a Yaesu radio. Oh well.

The final piece is a Spot X with Bluetooth 2-Way Satellite Messenger | SOS Protection | Handheld Portable 2-Way GPS Messenger for Hiking, Camping, Cars| Globalstar Satellite Network Coverage.

This requires a subscription which starts at $12 a month. There are three tiers of subscriptions though, and I'm going for the second. There is an interesting option that I will definitely take... an extraction option if you've got to be rescued and perhaps air-lifted to a hospital. It is a 14 page addition to the subscription contract. I reviewed as carefully as I could and then asked ChatGPT to review it. Now, you might think that after the false CB radio identification that I would be sour on ChatGPT; but it did a remarkably good job and answered a bunch of my questions.

Progress is slow but it is all coming together. I took a two hour run on dirt and sand with water hazards this past week and it did remarkedly well. More rattles than I expected and I will be trying to nail those down.

The current stumbling block is getting the CO2 tank mounted. I think i know how I am going to mount it; but I'm not there yet. I'm going to take a little break and visit my kids for a week; but I will be back.

 

[debrucer]

One necessary piece that I hadn't forgotten; but definitely not gone big enough with is the first aid kit. I purchased a dinky little waterproof job that had no room for expansion. Then i bought another one that looked better; but still no room for expansion. When finally adding stuff that I had collected over the last several months there was no place to store it.

I purchased a large red bag and made my own kit. The only thing missing is a tourniquet. I have one coming. Not sure whether I need an EpiPen or not. Seems like a useful addition. I'll think about it when I've got a little cash

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/debrucer/55035946712/in/photostream/" title="TTAW8629"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55035946712_d568a3f430.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="TTAW8629"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

For now, this is what I have. It has been ten years since I took a first aid class and I will look for a place to do that and CPR certification.

 

[debrucer]

Came to my senses on the CO2 bottle and gave up... it stays at home. Removed the rear seats and built this new storage drawer. It took two days and weighs around 300 pounds. Considering that I will no longer have rear seat passengers the weight remains about the same as prior. The front is secured to the floor using the original rear seat brackets. The rear is secured to the original tie-down hooks with turn-buckles. I used quality full-length sliders; but it is still very hard to operate. Not sure if there is a solution for that. We will see.







There is still room on the floor behind the front seats... enough to store my two tool bags. No sense adding weight inside the drawer as it is hard enough to slide now. I have installed tie-down hooks both inside and outside the unit; but they are not yet specifically located to hold particular equipment. I have 16 more hooks and screws and will install them based on exactly what will be store in which position. The table and the stepping stool are stored on top of the box. Because I have a tent I do not expect to be sleeping inside the truck. It won't be a problem to take them out if I decide I must sleep inside.

The roof rack has two traction boards and a storage container installed. I plan on carrying my tent, sleeping bags and the camping table up there.

I have been across the border three times since making this modification. On the latest trip the agent told me that I was not supposed to be using the SENTRI lane with these modification. I'm not sure if she noted the fact that she told me in my account, so I am a bit nervous about my next trip across the border. An aside note on trips to the USA: The truck was registered in South Dakota where they do not care whether I have auto insurance or not if I am not coming to the states. The original plan was to only purchase insurance for the duration of my trips and to otherwise not have US insurance. Due to my age, the short-term insurance cost turns out to be awful. The $50 a month that I am paying GEICO is a bargain, so I will be keeping it even if not traveling back to the US. (Holding my breath that GEICO doesn't cancel me for the same reason. I have had them for all of my life.)

 

[debrucer]

Our first trip to the beach including "air down" and "air up" sequences. The new compressor seemed to indicate 35 psi; but the tires looked low. Checked at the gas station (which is very accurate here) and the tires were only 22 psi (up from 17). I will check the compressor and gage since it must be more accurate than that. The trip from home to this beach and back cost $72 in gas. It is definitely a guzzler; but worth it to learn the lesson on tire pressure.

Fun time. Next time I need to find a beach that is a bit longer. What you see in the picture is all the distance you can physically travel. Not what I expected. The beach was 30 km off the paved road down a dirt road through farmland and mountains. There was a campsite at the beach where nightly camping was 200 pesos (about 12 bucks) and there were about six families there. Looked like a safe enough place to party with others present. Haven't worked up the nerve to go it alone on a deserted beach (well, haven't found a deserted beach yet... still looking).

 

[Cezar]

Those tap a fuse things are probably fine but they look a little weird.

BTW idk the details of how I figured this out because I apparently did it in a fugue state years ago with no memory of doing so, but apparently you can just crimp a spade connector onto a wire and there are taps on the BACK of the interior fusebox to pop into. I have a couple 12V+ items wired up this way. I have a stack of inline fuse holders so its an easy way to add circuits.

 

[debrucer]

Those tap a fuse things are probably fine but they look a little weird.

BTW idk the details of how I figured this out because I apparently did it in a fugue state years ago with no memory of doing so, but apparently you can just crimp a spade connector onto a wire and there are taps on the BACK of the interior fusebox to pop into. I have a couple 12V+ items wired up this way. I have a stack of inline fuse holders so its an easy way to add circuits.

That sounds like a clean way to do it. The hardest part of doing it the way I did was getting the right tap-a-fuse here in Mexico. Looks a little funny but worked out well.

 

[dmuniz1219]

looks dope!