Maybe a dumb electrical question

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you might wanna try to do a better job of explaining exactly what you are trying to accomplish
-If you mean to use those for electrical connection, sure they are conductive but no don't do it

looking for more places to hook stuff up:
Blue Sea Fuse box.
 

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mscot said:
Can I use one of these to extend the number of locations I can install wiring to the battery?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-Steel-Zinc-Plated-Corner-Brace-4-Pack-13611/203170052
Click to expand...

Not a dumb question...especially, if you are a DIYer with limited resources...but NO.

Not sure what you are wanting to do, but I would run an appropriate capacity wire to a terminal strip or bus and connect your accessories there.

Any good audio shop should have what you are looking for...BUT, do forget the fuses or circuit breakers.

If you are just looking for just 1 or 2 additional spots to connect accessories...then something like this might work for you...there are many others like it...you might be able to find something at your local Walmart/autopart store...

https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT8...lf_m_rc4866vvyc928z5_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=car
 
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I have three things to connect, I was just trying to find a better way to do it than piling up the d-rings on a bolt on the terminal connection.
Looks like I should just switch out the stock terminals to a military style and be done with it.

I don't need the blue sea fuse block yet, I only have one accessory that would go through that (lightbar), the other two need to connect directly to the battery (winch and amplifier). I'll go with a more robust set up if I add more lights.
 
Yeah...two reasons why you don't want to use that 'bracket' thing from the hardware store...

First, it is a bracket...although, left with no other reasonable choice, it could work...say zombie apocalypse.

Second, and the most important...the material it is made out of...galvanized steel maybe?...well, after a while that galvanize wears off and then you have rust and corrosion. You want copper (at very lest aluminum) so that your voltage drop is minimized in high current circuits.
 
swampdodo said:
Yeah...two reasons why you don't want to use that 'bracket' thing from the hardware store...

First, it is a bracket...although, left with no other reasonable choice, it could work...say zombie apocalypse.

Second, and the most important...the material it is made out of...galvanized steel maybe?...well, after a while that galvanize wears off and then you have rust and corrosion. You want copper (at very lest aluminum) so that your voltage drop is minimized in high current circuits.
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I guess you could use something like this...

Military Standard MS25226-10-5 Cadmium Plated Copper Bus, Conductor at SkyGeek.com

But how would you protect it from unintended shorts???
 
I have two lights I am connecting, both in the grill. I am dropping in a 12 circuit blue seas fuse box with a 100 amp breaker on a power tray.

here is the way I am thinking, if I have multiple wires going to the battery its going to look like crap and introduce a whole bunch of other issues down the road. this way I can turn the whole thing off with the breaker when my dealer says that is causing problems. and I have everything in one place. I will have no issues adding more stuff in the future and then I wont have to redo my two lights I am adding now. I will never come out to a dead battery cause a wire slipped off or any of the bs people have by running multiple wires to the battery.

did I forget to mention its going to be extremely clean? and to be honest, its really not that much more to do it right the first time. but that is just my opinion, then again its my truck
 
[MENTION=149746]daveherrmann[/MENTION] Thanks for the lecture on doing things the right way, dad. ;)

As I said in an earlier post, you can't run a winch or an audio amplifier from that fuse block so I would still have to run the wires to the battery terminal for those two accessories - meaning there will still be three accessory wires connecting to the battery.

I wasn't trying to skimp out on doing it correctly, I was trying to figure out a way to do it cleanly without having to buy a hydraulic crimper and redoing the existing battery cables when switching to a military style terminal - which is what I've decided is the best way to do this.

I've researched every single bus bar and fuse block on the market because of the amount of draw a winch and the amplifier will use when engaged (in the end, I was told that its best to connect the winch and amp to the battery and not use a distribution block for those two components). The one thing I haven't found is a way to connect more cables AT the battery without risking shorting it out which [MENTION=155160]swampdodo[/MENTION] confirmed could happen. (without replacing the oem terminal connectors, that is)

If I run more lights, which won't happen near-term, I'll either use that blue sea fuse box or a Switch Pro - no need to cross that bridge yet tho.
 
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if you look at my other posts on the new powertray, it has two breakers on it, so you could run a winch off of it

sorry if they came across as a lecture, but I would hate to see you do any harm
 
you have couple of choices, i would either run a new battery terminal, or run a 1 or 4 gauge to a fused distroblock, 1 gauge wire thats 18 or less to a fused distro block is enough. if you plan the install ahead, youll save money in the long run.

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daveherrmann said:
if you look at my other posts on the new powertray, it has two breakers on it, so you could run a winch off of it
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Winches pull up to 500amps under load. I plan to put a disconnect inline between the battery and the winch (link below) to kill power when the winch is not in use. Harper7 did something similar.

Amp will be wired straight to battery with an inline fuse - unless someone with experience in audio can refute what my installer has told me and make the argument that it's fine to run the amplifier from a distribution block that also has the lights and a compressor running from it in the future.

Right now plan is to replace battery terminals with military style:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074STQ2C1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AXLVUUCJK6134&psc=1

The three accessories will be connected directly to these terminals.
The amp and light will have inline fuses.
The winch will have this disconnect in place:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

IF the amp can draw sufficient power through a distribution block (again, install shop has warned against that) then I would go with this block for the amp and the light:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...8&qid=1517938148&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea+150

If I keep the amp connected to the battery and add more lights in the future I'll either go with a Switch Pro or a blue sea fuse block similar to what Dave posted.
 
this is available from power trays now, I have one going in on 2/26. I am going to use one breaker for the fuse box and right now the other breaker will be doing nothing.

just throwing this out as an option...
 

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daveherrmann said:
this is available from power trays now, I have one going in on 2/26. I am going to use one breaker for the fuse box and right now the other breaker will be doing nothing.

just throwing this out as an option...
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm aware of it. But it doesn't solve my problem at this time.
 
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mscot said:
[MENTION=5149]riceandpho[/MENTION]
can you explain these two images?
Click to expand...

just the grounds from 2 different points. i have it directly to the alternator, this is also helpful when doing the big 3.
i also use the bolt by the dipstick.
 
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