Mechanic says lift is too much?

[bigmike91]

Agreed, if you are going to stay with OE components use Toyota suppliers and not aftermarket copies.

These are also an option

Just saw they were like $900

 

[jrm]

what about center of wheel to fender lip?

Yeah I did most of my suspenion work with a buddy. The steering was loose so I got a mechanic to replace a lot of the steering components under my extended warranty and have had issues ever since. I just measured her and she is 39" from the ground to the fender on the front, and 41" in the rear. Pretty even side to side.

you dont think the mechanic might the distances between the CV, tie rod and strut is what thinks is dangerous? Also are your 885s on the lowest clip?

 

[bigmike91]

you dont think the mechanic might the distances between the CV, tie rod and strut is what thinks is dangerous? Also are your 885s on the lowest clip?

Yes the 5100s are on the 0" stock setting with the 885s. I am not sure if that is what he is talking about. I am pretty sure he was talking about the angles of the steering and cv axles because of the change in geometry from lifting the truck.

 

[jrm]

i was thinking that w/o aftermarket UCAs

Yes the 5100s are on the 0" stock setting with the 885s. I am not sure if that is what he is talking about. I am pretty sure he was talking about the angles of the steering and cv axles because of the change in geometry from lifting the truck.

the lack of caster brings the tie rod, cv and strut awful close to one another..maybe he was warning you about rubbing? cuz yeah the angles look ok.

 

[bigmike91]

the lack of caster brings the tie rod, cv and strut awful close to one another..maybe he was warning you about rubbing? cuz yeah the angles look ok.

Possibly. Either way I am replacing this bad tie rod with a new one and getting some new camburg UCAs here soon, so that should eliminate that issue.

My main concern is that he is telling me that there are issues with the angles, when I have read about other 4th gens running for a long time with higher lifts and steeper angles..

 

[t-man]

My main concern is that he is telling me that there are issues with the angles, when I have read about other 4th gens running for a long time with higher lifts and steeper angles..

Idea, why don't you talk to him, ask him to clarify the issue as you are confused and want to know the best route. Act stupid, don't give any info away. Then you'll know if he meant something else or is completely full of it. Also, ask him specifically what tie rods he used as you don't want to use them again.
If he's full of it and/or lying, either call him out with that b.s or leave him in the dust! And make a review online for others to see.


Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

 

[bigmike91]

Idea, why don't you talk to him, ask him to clarify the issue as you are confused and want to know the best route. Act stupid, don't give any info away. Then you'll know if he meant something else or is completely full of it. Also, ask him specifically what tie rods he used as you don't want to use them again.
If he's full of it and/or lying, either call him out with that b.s or leave him in the dust! And make a review online for others to see.


Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

Do you have a link to the inner tie rod I SHOULD use? I am assuming I should just order one from RockAuto?

 

[t-man]

Do you have a link to the inner tie rod I SHOULD use? I am assuming I should just order one from RockAuto?

I started getting my parts from autozone, duralast brand, for the lifetime warranty. I would get any quality replacement you trust, and if possible one with a warranty.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

 

[RonJR]

You might want to jack up the front end from the center so that the suspension can go to full droop. Then look at your angles again, and try to spin the front wheels to see if there's any CV binding.

I agree those angles look OK while on the ground, but if you lift a wheel offroad things can be a lot different, especially if the shocks are a little on the long side and allow too much suspension travel downward.

 

[bigmike91]

You might want to jack up the front end from the center so that the suspension can go to full droop. Then look at your angles again, and try to spin the front wheels to see if there's any CV binding.

I agree those angles look OK while on the ground, but if you lift a wheel offroad things can be a lot different, especially if the shocks are a little on the long side and allow too much suspension travel downward.

If there is cv binding when at full droop, what are my options besides a diff drop?

 

[RonJR]

To be honest, you should be OK with the Bilsteins, unless you got the wrong part number shock. The correct ones should not allow the suspension to over-extend enough to cause the CV's to bind. Are the CV's OEM? Aftermarket ones might bind at a lower angle than OEM's.

It's also quite possible CV binding isn't your problem at all. Just something to check.

 

[bigmike91]

To be honest, you should be OK with the Bilsteins, unless you got the wrong part number shock. The correct ones should not allow the suspension to over-extend enough to cause the CV's to bind. Are the CV's OEM? Aftermarket ones might bind at a lower angle than OEM's.

It's also quite possible CV binding isn't your problem at all. Just something to check.

They are actually not oem. They are napa gold

 

[Porqupine82]

It sounds as if perhaps inferior parts were used. When it comes to steering, stopping and running I ALWAYS prefer OEM. There are several brands of steering components out there that are very risky to use.

I am only guessing, but if the shop you took it to used cheap parts and they failed like cheap parts OFTEN do, they are going to blame your lift to avoid having to re-do the work on their dime.

If you tierods do not say "made in Japan" don't use them IMHO. you can get aftermarket parts made in Japan, I know some (not all) of the prosteer stuff is made in Japan.

Moog is also made in Japan, aad I use their products.. but I've heard complaints about them also

 

[Porqupine82]

Have you had any issues with tie rods wearing out very quickly? How much offroading do you do?

My angles are exactly like yours and my tie rods have been on the truck for 15000 miles, still tight. Your angles are fine. I wish someone would post a pic of a factory runners angles... the axle is the same angle, just pointing upwards to the tire.

 

[bigmike91]

My angles are exactly like yours and my tie rods have been on the truck for 15000 miles, still tight. Your angles are fine. I wish someone would post a pic of a factory runners angles... the axle is the same angle, just pointing upwards to the tire.

I was thinking that the tie rod issue I am having now may be due to slamming the LCA down pretty hard on a curb recently... May have jacked up the inner tie rod end. Either way, my mechanic saying that my cv and steering angles are dangerous seems a bit dramatic for my mild set up. Thanks for the input!

 

[blackoutt]

5100s on their own shouldn't be long enough to bind a CV at full droop. Now if you put a top plate spacer on you could get into problems there. You either got a bad part for that tie rod or beat it up off road and just need new. Cost of the fun. Definitely look into new UCA's to get the alignment easily in check.

 

[mpyle]

My angles are exactly like yours and my tie rods have been on the truck for 15000 miles, still tight. Your angles are fine. I wish someone would post a pic of a factory runners angles... the axle is the same angle, just pointing upwards to the tire.

Here you go ...

Some great pics and measurements

 

[chayos00]

Just look at a stock 4Runner, they have just switched CV angles when going lifted! LOL this mechanic is full of it. I would honestly :bash: :boxer: and then give him a :flipoff: and :zoom:

I've got more CV angle than you and I've had no issues, besides a leaking seal (the small inner one) that I fixed by reclamping.

 

[bigmike91]

5100s on their own shouldn't be long enough to bind a CV at full droop. Now if you put a top plate spacer on you could get into problems there. You either got a bad part for that tie rod or beat it up off road and just need new. Cost of the fun. Definitely look into new UCA's to get the alignment easily in check.

I probably beat it up off-road to be honest. I have a box at the house with some SPC arms to throw on soon...