Mitch' big red 4runner build

LookAtThatDog

New member
I bought my 98 sr5 in July. I have a real job now, and wanted a little project vehicle. The maintenance records are perfect, every maintenance done and stamped in the book. I got a great deal on it, but it needs some work done.

Im a big fan of mighty car mods and dirt every day. If you're not familiar you should be!

It does have some rust. I see a lot of users in here that have rust free California vehicles, but that's not what I'm working with, and I would appreciate it if not every post was about the rust situation.

Work to do:
New headlights - done
Led interior lights - done
Tundra brake swap - done
Wipers, battery - done
New ball joints - done
New tie rod ends - done
Brake loose camber bolts - done
Replace stereo - done

Do before winter:
Alignment - done
Rotate, balance tires - done
Plasti dip wheels
Por 15
Replace rear diff fluid

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The frame has a lot of surface rust, but has a patch back by the rear passenger control arm. There's a welded plate on the inside of the frame, but the outside has been decaying.

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Here's the bad side
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I've talked to some welders that can fix it. It's way more solid than the pictures look. I'm not really worried about it right now. It'll be my project for spring.

Replacing tie rod

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Changing ball joint. I was hoping to get both done, but I bent the threaded part of the tie rod and couldn't get the castle nut back on. Guess I'll be swapping both tie rod ends.

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This is the last camber bolt that I have to break loose. I'll need to move the steering rack to get to the bolt with my impact. I haven't tried torching it yet, but it'll probly be what I end up doing.
 
Welcome man. Nice to see some new blood in Indiana. Whereabouts are you? There are 5 or 6 of us in Indy.

Looks like you've got some work ahead of you...but you'll be glad you did it. Biggest thing I can recommend is washing frequently in the winter. Indiana loves their salt in the winter.

Let me know if you need any recommendations/help/advice.
 
I'm in Warsaw, pretty far from indy. I saw there's an orv Park northwest of you, Southwest of me that is supposed to be cool.

I bought it so I can get around better in winter. My poor Mazda had a little run in with a highway divider and I've been scarred since.

Thanks for the kind words.
 
You've got a lot of good work done. Be careful about torching that cam bolt, the bushing behind it is rubber and unless you want to replace it (which isn't necessarily a bad idea) you don't want to melt it.
 
I just looked at your build, and I saw you just recently got yours loose. I'll definitely have to try to get my steering rack off (like you did) and get my impact in there. I've been wary about the torch because that bushing looks like it sucks - seems like a job for spring.

Stupid question: When removing these cam bolts, should I always remove from the bolt side (22 or 24mm, i dont remember which), or from the NUT side (19 mm) or does it not matter? Does one side ruin the alignment? I can't make sense of the exploded diagrams and stuff.
 
I don't think it matters which side you remove the camber bolt from. Taking the bolt out from either side ruins the alignment. You should do an alignment after all the other front end work your doing anyways.
 
I plan on it. I took it to the dealer for an alignment, and he said to change the passenger tie rod and he didn't think he'd be able to get the camber bolts loose. But he didn't even try, so whatever. I figured I'd do the ball joints while I'm at it. I'm not taking the bolts out, I'm just making sure they'll be able to get them loose.
 
Sounds good. I know it's not the best way to do it but could you get your impact on it with a 6 or9 inch wobble extension?
 
I tried the impact in a swivel extension (which I'm assuming is the same as a wobble) on the bolt, didn't move. I think it just needs heat and a big ass breaker bar.

I put the second ball joint on today. My other tie rod comes tomorrow, and I'll throw that On. Then my plan is to take it to a local shop instead of the dealer for the alignment. I think the dealership is just spoiled cuz they work on new cars all the time.
 
A wobble is a little different. It might work a little better because it might have less play.

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A think another shop is agood idea. Dealerships charge too much anyways
 
I'll have to give that a shot when I'm back at my parents' place. I don't have my own impact, but I asked for one for my birthday in a month. Seems like a fitting gift for a 25 year old.
 
Tried to do the passenger tie rod end. It's basically fused to the inner tie rod. I got the inner off, so if I can find a bench vice, I Might be able to get it off. If not, moog ones on Amazon are like $30.

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every new part you put on you should be painting before install. i like epoxy paint, its designed to withstand the abuse of salt and chemical salt sprays. painting those parts will prevent them from rusting and make future service a much easier task. looks good. and i like to see that you are working things and not giving up, i commend you.
 
I torched it a few times. I think it'll come off, but I just need to get it in a position where I can get a real grip on it. I look all contorted and ridiculous in the wheel well haha

I've never heard of painting components like these, I'll check it out
 
Unfortunate for your rust woes.. However, great job putting in the effort to keep'er alive and going. Good luck with the rest of your build. Welcome to T4R
 
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New inner and outer tie rod installed. Dropped off at the alignment shop. Tires squealed on the way there, definitely did not do a good job keeping the new tie rod at the same thread as the old one. Let's all pray everything works out and they can adjust the camber.
 

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