mobil 1 synthetic vs toyota OEM oil

5w-20 is fine. In Puerto Rico you can run 10-30! Valvoline makes a nice Synth 5w-20 in a 5 qt jug at Wallyworld if you don't like Mo1.
 
I rechecked the manual and yep, in Puerto Rico it states 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30 are fine.

Yep, that stood out like a sore thumb the first time I read my manual. And I have no doubt they get the same engine we get in the states.

I think the manual states they can use up to a 15W-40 there. Pretty interesting.
 
You can’t find the 4Runner in their oil selector and you know more than Redline about what specs their oil meets. Ok.
Actually I do. From the 4R manual:

If SAE 0W-20 is not available,SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replacedwith SAE 0W-20 at the next oilchange.

5w-20 is fine. In Puerto Rico you can run 10-30! Valvoline makes a nice Synth 5w-20 in a 5 qt jug at Wallyworld if you don't like Mo1.
Sure. If you are in Puerto Rico. There is probably a different recommendation if you are in Siberia.

I rechecked the manual and yep, in Puerto Rico it states 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30 are fine.
NC is in Puerto Rico?

The bottom line is that the automobile manufacturer sets the requirements and it would be foolish to follow the recommendation of a boutique oil company when it differs from those requirements.

The problem with boutique oils like Redline is that they haven't been certified to any standard. They say "our oil is recommended for use in XYZ that requires the ABC standard" but they fail to point out that it isn't certified.

It is immaterial if the oil actually meets the specs because if you do have a lubrication issue, then Toyota won't say "let's analyze the oil to see if it meets the specs", they will say "it isn't certified to meet our specs. Here's your bill for a new engine."

Will 5w20 oil (outside of PR) make your engine blow up? I'm 99.21% sure that it won't, but why? It isn't as if the correct 0w20 is hard to find or expensive (probably cheaper than redline). In these engines you could probably run maple syrup and all would be well, but your warranty won't be happy.

Or, I guess if your engine does blow up with 5w20, then you could always ship your car to PR to a dealer there for a warranty repair.

I won't get sucked into another oil thread so y'all can just carry on in this thread without me.
 
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I was doing 10k mile oci's with M1 0-20 EP. It will definitely go 10k in a 4 runner without a hitch. Don't sweat it. Castrol is good too, pennzoil etc. No need for boutique oil, it's a Toyota!

I just picked up a 2019. My debate is whether to change out the oil at 1000miles or not...
 
I was doing 10k mile oci's with M1 0-20 EP. It will definitely go 10k in a 4 runner without a hitch. Don't sweat it. Castrol is good too, pennzoil etc. No need for boutique oil, it's a Toyota!

I just picked up a 2019. My debate is whether to change out the oil at 1000miles or not...

I recently placed an online order for 2 boxes of Havoline 0W-20 Pro DS in the 6 quart box from Walmart. They call it "smart oil change" i.e. no plastic. 12 quarts of a full synthetic 0W-20 delivered to my front door for $41.07. Aside from what appears to be an unbeatable everyday low price, the best part is I didn't have to set one foot inside the local zoo.

Based on this, I can pencil out a complete DIY oil change, which includes an OEM oil filter and OEM drain plug crush washer for $28.54. Havoline is supposedly a quality oil according to BITOG. I will soon find out.

First change will be at 6k miles, second at 13k, third at 21k, fourth at 30k, and then the rest will be every 10k after that. This comes to one additional oil change over the first 30k miles. Ordinarily I would just stick with the factory recommended 10k oci from day 1, but it's hard to resist that new car oil change tinfoil hat paranoia when it only costs an extra $28.54.
 
Yes, EPA and MPG concerns are the driver behind the 0w-20 and why you can run 10-30 in other markets.....NOT the engine's inability to run the heavier oil. Some people don't get that many forces are at work beside the engine's actual requirements. You don't want to run a 10-30 if you are in a cold climate obviously, though 2 more minutes in the driveway would be all you needed to be fine. I am in a 125 degree climate and 5w-20 makes more sense than 0w-20 to me......my coldest morning all year was 39 degrees!
 
I am not sure if any of these videos have been posted, but a youtuber compared all major brands of motor oil, and found Amsoil and Pennzoil to be better than Mobil 1. I have been using Mobil 1 for decades, but will probably be switching.

Here is the link to the last video in his series.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

There are several videos before the one I have posted, comparing various brands of oil, Mobil 1, Amazon Basic, Lucas, etc. They are worth a watch.
 
I am not sure if any of these videos have been posted, but a youtuber compared all major brands of motor oil, and found Amsoil and Pennzoil to be better than Mobil 1. I have been using Mobil 1 for decades, but will probably be switching.

Here is the link to the last video in his series.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

There are several videos before the one I have posted, comparing various brands of oil, Mobil 1, Amazon Basic, Lucas, etc. They are worth a watch.

So you switching to 5w-30 too?
 
I am not sure if any of these videos have been posted, but a youtuber compared all major brands of motor oil, and found Amsoil and Pennzoil to be better than Mobil 1. I have been using Mobil 1 for decades, but will probably be switching.

Here is the link to the last video in his series.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

There are several videos before the one I have posted, comparing various brands of oil, Mobil 1, Amazon Basic, Lucas, etc. They are worth a watch.

This was cool. Thanks for posting.

My favorite part was how Amazon Brand Oil performed better overall than Mobil 1.

The Mobil 1 fanboi's are going to freak :lmao:

I can already hear the excuses now.
 
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Above info is all correct. Exxon / Mobil does make Toyota oil HOWEVER it is completely different than their off the shelf 0-20 It's a specific formulation made exclusively for Toyota. IMO, there is a reason for that. I am 2K miles away from my normal 5K mile oil change. I have used Toyota oil, Mobil 1 oil, Valvoline oil. The engine ran quietest with the Toyota oil so that's what I plan to use for the rest of the time I own this truck, which will be quite a while. Same goes for my 2019 Highlander, It'll get Toyota oil and OEM filters.
 
For all future visitors to this old thread, visit the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website PASSENGER CAR MOTOR OIL | The Petroleum Quality Institute of America and in the graph shown, sort the Grade column from highest viscosity to lowest.

Scroll to the 0W-20 section and select the oils you want to compare.
Mobile 1 variants have formulations with molybdenum between 79 and 88 ppm.
The Toyota OEM formulation made by Exxon/Mobile has 787 ppm of molybdenum.

There are many other differences in the formulations, but the comments made on the Bob is the Oil Guy forum point to the difference in molybdenum concentrations as significant.
 
For all future visitors to this old thread, visit the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website PASSENGER CAR MOTOR OIL | The Petroleum Quality Institute of America and in the graph shown, sort the Grade column from highest viscosity to lowest.

Scroll to the 0W-20 section and select the oils you want to compare.
Mobile 1 variants have formulations with molybdenum between 79 and 88 ppm.
The Toyota OEM formulation made by Exxon/Mobile has 787 ppm of molybdenum.

There are many other differences in the formulations, but the comments made on the Bob is the Oil Guy forum point to the difference in molybdenum concentrations as significant.


The PQIA website is a good source for reference.
But realize that there’s a lot of change going on in motor oil development. There was a recent transition to API SN PLUS, on the way to API SP. They haven’t caught up with testing and reporting results of all the brands yet. The Toyota oils on their list are still API SN, but what you buy at the dealer now is API SN PLUS. And next year there will be API SP. The chemistry numbers will be different for SN PLUS when they eventually get around to test Toyota oil. So, stay tuned, hold tight, and don’t worry.

The New API SP/ILSAC GF-6A Motor Oils are Now on Store Shelves | The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

SN PLUS Motor Oils – Calcium Down, Magnesium Up | The Petroleum Quality Institute of America
 
Indeed. Thanks for that comment [MENTION=200736]ElectroBoy[/MENTION]

The API SN PLUS classification licensing started May 1, 2018 and the BITOG test on their website (as of today) shows they purchased the Toyota OEM (API SN) oil on 1/24/2018, so the test is now 2 formulations old (API SN -> API SN PLUS -> API SP/ILSAC GF-6A).
 
Indeed. Thanks for that comment [MENTION=200736]ElectroBoy[/MENTION]

The API SN PLUS classification licensing started May 1, 2018 and the BITOG test on their website (as of today) shows they purchased the Toyota OEM (API SN) oil on 1/24/2018, so the test is now 2 formulations old (API SN -> API SN PLUS -> API SP/ILSAC GF-6A).

It seems the API S# designation doesn’t necessarily mean the oil formulation changed, it means that the oil meets the relevant API testing requirements. The Toyota SN oil could be the same formulation as the SN Plus oil.
It will be interesting to see if any SN PLUS test results are posted before they test the SP version.
 
Some folks need to quit obsessing over Moly content.......some oils go another route on wear additives and a lower Moly count is not a sign of a less effective oil. Most of Projectfarm's ''tests'' are irrelevant to practical use tests.
 

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