Mod Rear Sliding Cargo Area

great idea. I did sort of the same thing. I used the holes and mounted eye-bolts through them that I used as tie downs for my fridge. Worked really well.

I'm working on a second version of my shelf for the back, this time with no vertical legs to the floor. that's where I find the sliding tray very beneficial. Also working on a plate for the front little area in front of the sliding tray to either keep everything from falling off it to the gap when the tray is opened, or just extending the tray back so everything comes out with the tray.
 
Here is a easy mod I did to secure my cooler to the sliding tray.

1. Remove the plastic plugs in the back that are holding the carpet down (these will be replaced by bolts). The holes go completely through the tray so no drilling is required.

2. I purchased hardware at ACE and used stuff made for furniture to have it as flush with the tray as possible.

3. Webbing and buckles I got at REI for $7. Cinch thingies were about $3, probably could be found cheaper or salvaged from old jackets. 550 paracord I had on hand.

4. The things that allow the straps to be removed I had acquired from an old bag strap I wasn't using, but I'm sure you could find something similar online. (see pic 3)

Thanks for the post man. Really great idea. I’ve attached photos of the hardware I used that worked well for me based on your idea.
 

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Finally made the mod to my rear sliding cargo deck to allow easy tie down of bins and cooler. The system is modular, unlike a drawer system, and very lightweight, inexpensive, and functional.

I drilled and bolted cargo track into the rear deck, which allows securing of a 70 qt cooler, 2 - 15 gallon sterilite bins, and some extra free space all on the sliding deck, which can then be pulled out, like a drawer, without anything falling in the opening behind the deck.

I bought Airline track from uscargocontrol.com
3 - 24" pieces in black AT24BL
1 - 48" piece in black AT48BL
3 - ATFASTPACK Stud Fitting Track Fastener 10 pack for securing the track to the deck
8 - 1529-DS Double Stud Fitting 5k B.S. - These fit in the track and allow tie down with straps or hooks

I had to cut one of the long pieces with the dremel (fairly easy) to fit across the back of the deck.
I laid down the long piece across the width of the back of the deck, and the 3 short pieces oriented length wise. 2 of the short ones are spaced just enough to fit the width of my cooler (or most coolers that size). This allows bins or other wider items to fit on the other side.

I kind of wish I had put the narrow side on the other side of the deck now, to allow the cooler drain spout to face the outside and allow the cooler lid to open laterally. Just something to consider.

Lay the track and mark the drill holes. Feel the underside of the deck to make sure you don't drill through something important. I drilled right through the Canvasback cover, carpet and deck easily. It is a kind of foam core, so little white bits end up everywhere. I just used washers and bolts on the underside to hold it in. I think there are enough bolts that it feels pretty sturdy, despite not super strong material in the deck. I lined the track up fairly close to the edge of the deck, but not too close to hopefully give more strength.

I use these Sterilite Bins:
https://www.amazon.com/Sterilite-14649006-Gallon-Industrial-Latches/dp/B00KL7VM7W
Only $10/ea. Decently sturdy. Can stack 2 high in back of runner. Can fit up to 10 bins in back of 4Runner if back seats are folded down. I generally set up with 6 bins, a 70 qt cooler, and a dog. These are also just low-profile enough to strap down on the gobi roof rack as well if you need more space inside, and will be fairly weatherproof up top.

I use the Coleman Xtreme Marine 70 qt. Holds ice almost as good as a Yeti for about 1/7th of the price. Obviously, it won't outlast a Yeti, but I bet 5 of them will:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/34105098...75035&wl11=online&wl12=34105098&wl13=&veh=sem

I use NRS Straps for tie downs.
2 - 4" Red straps tied to cooler handles to allow opening the lid without strap removal.
1 - 7-8 ft strap around the body of the cooler to prevent accidental opening when on the move.
3 - 6' loop straps for tie downs
2 - 9' loop straps for tie downs.

The problem I haven't figured out is: How to tie down items over the rear seats when they're folded down. There are two stock tie downs there, but they are in an awkward location to be functional. I'm thinking a cargo net is needed. Any ideas? The goal is to not have items overlap the gap when the crago tray is pulled out.

How much room do you have under the sliding tray to store things? What is the biggest item that you have put under there to store?
 
How much room do you have under the sliding tray to store things? What is the biggest item that you have put under there to store?

Only a small amount of space under there. I have some assorted items such as ARB winch line/tow strap damper (flat), some bow shackles & soft shackles, large folded up garbage bag, poncho, pocket knife, accessory cord, carabiners. Can't really get anything thicker than a bow shackle in there.
 
This is a great way to deal with the deck and has held up great. Rock solid (Moab and Death Valley). I did this about a year ago. Once I knew what I was going to strap down, it was easy to lay them out. I love my cargo tray. Not my idea, got it from somewhere on this forum.

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This is a great way to deal with the deck and has held up great. Rock solid (Moab and Death Valley). I did this about a year ago. Once I knew what I was going to strap down, it was easy to lay them out. I love my cargo tray. Not my idea, got it from somewhere on this forum.

Hey [MENTION=219578]sf4rnr[/MENTION]. Could you give any more details about what you did? Really like your solution the best. Would love to hear any details about how you attached those D-rings (particularly the ones in the middle)? Thanks so much!
 
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This is a great way to deal with the deck and has held up great. Rock solid (Moab and Death Valley). I did this about a year ago. Once I knew what I was going to strap down, it was easy to lay them out. I love my cargo tray. Not my idea, got it from somewhere on this forum.

Hey [MENTION=219578]sf4rnr[/MENTION]. Could you give any more details about what you did? Really like your solution the best. Would love to hear any details about how you attached those D-rings (particularly the ones in the middle)? Thanks so much!

For the sides, I had some older ratchet straps, just cut them and to length and put a grommet on to connect them with the d-ring in there. The cotter allows me to easily remove it if needed. Also they just hang under the tray when not in use so I leave them attached. They pull from the bottom of the tray so they are very strong. I used washers to increase the footprint on the of the grommet on the tray.

For the middle, I just drilled into the tray, avoiding the latch cable and supports. Again just used some washers to increase the footprint.

The grommet kit I got at a hardware store. The d-rings and cotters I got at harbor freight. Bolt and washers I had at the house. Maybe $25-30 solution for me. For the tubs, I got those at OSH, I think they were about $10 bucks each but can't remember.

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When strapped down they do not move at all. They are also easy to undo to get to things in the tub. I use carabiners to keep the straps attached (so the center ones won't come unattached between the tubs when I loosen one side).

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currently working on raising my sliding cargo tray

Has anyone done any Mods to the rear sliding cargo area for T4R with sliding deck. I'd like to put a cooler or storage under this tray that slides out.

I am actually in the process of lifting my tray by 1" for my amp rack to fit underneath. I am using some high density plastic and basically creating spacers to lift the tray above the sliding mechanism. Pics to come
 
I am actually in the process of lifting my tray by 1" for my amp rack to fit underneath. I am using some high density plastic and basically creating spacers to lift the tray above the sliding mechanism. Pics to come

Got it completed? I'd like to see pics for sure. I have a 19' with sliding tray but can't figure out exactly how I want to configure it.
 
Found this thread digging and I'm really glad I did. Originally was going to do the Aiden James Customs sliding gear plate (plywood plate coated in Line-X, bolts onto cargo tray with no drilling) but bailed when fabrication and delivery dragged too long. Glad it didn't pan out!

It's a tight squeeze but I got everything to fit (Nomad Kitchen and 70 qt pelican cooler) like a glove.
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Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Here is a easy mod I did to secure my cooler to the sliding tray.

1. Remove the plastic plugs in the back that are holding the carpet down (these will be replaced by bolts). The holes go completely through the tray so no drilling is required.

2. I purchased hardware at ACE and used stuff made for furniture to have it as flush with the tray as possible.

3. Webbing and buckles I got at REI for $7. Cinch thingies were about $3, probably could be found cheaper or salvaged from old jackets. 550 paracord I had on hand.

4. The things that allow the straps to be removed I had acquired from an old bag strap I wasn't using, but I'm sure you could find something similar online. (see pic 3)

What are those little buckles called and how did you seat them inside the webbing?
 
Has anyone done any Mods to the rear sliding cargo area for T4R with sliding deck. I'd like to put a cooler or storage under this tray that slides out.

It's great having all the room in the back of the 4runner to store coolers, fridges, boxes of camping gear and other items. I'm not sure if anyone has brought this up but when strapping your stuff down, make sure you're doing it in a way to also keep all these items from flying forward in the event of a crash. If you have your back seats folded down, or removed like me, there only thing keeping all that mass from crashing into the back of your head is how you secure these items. Food for thought.
 
Followed some of the guidance here on adding tie downs to the cargo tray, but also possibly made some improvements

First I ordered straps from Shimoda seen here:
0941e576fa3898c1e13185f1c28e1042.jpg



then I pulled the rubber carpet pins out with needle nose pliers
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then I inserted the machine screws, washers and before tightening everyone, I ran the screw through the carabiner section of the shimada strap.

no drilling required, no need to peirce a strap through the middle. took 5 minutes per strap and feels very sturdy
cfde44ace9cb90b71a15aba6da14c058.jpg



Now I have quick releases and the tray closes normally without the buckle being an issue - it’s a perfect strap
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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