Morning smoke show
- Thread starter Mudeprived
- Start date
Mudeprived
New member
So the shop texted me and said it was misfiring and had electrical issues but their scanner cannot determine what the problem is. Thry referred me to another shop.
They did not mention the coolant loss so I am confused.
They did not mention the coolant loss so I am confused.
Mudeprived
New member
They did get me thinking abt some things. A few weeks back my battery died and I jumped it with my car then the issue was gone for abt a week.
I also have a strange light flicker when turning left at the bottom of my driveway.
Could be something or not related at all.
Mudeprived
New member
New discovery made today. If I turn the key for a second to start like I normally do then I get the rough idle. If I turn the key and hold it for a good 2 seconds or so then it starts normally and no rough idle.
Could this be related to the starter?
Could this be related to the starter?
19963.4lsr5
New member
To me that's a sign of a failing check valve in the fuel pump allowing fuel to drain out of the fuel system or you have an injector dripping.
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Mudeprived
New member
Well I did run out of gas a few times and all this started after that last one.
Mudeprived
New member
Is there a way to confirm this?
I found out that the radiator is leaking fluid along the crimps. I used a block tester to see if it was my head gasket but the fluid stayed blue all the way up operating temps so no combustion gasses are entering the cooling system.
It seems like it will start normally depending on how I turn the ignition but I cannot duplicate it. There were two days where it started normally.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Good find on the Rad in a way.
Have you noticed a difference if you don't drive it for a couple days vs drive it every day? Park it Friday evening start Monday morn.
Mudeprived
New member
Long sits usually net the worst starts.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I ask that going along the line of thinking with [MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION], injector leaking down, check valve .
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Mudeprived
New member
I decided to swap in some new ignition coils and checked the spark plugs while I was at it. Plug #3 has oil on it, not on the tip, but on the threads and leading up to the tip. This makes me think oil is getting on the plugs and burning off? I also noticed a bit of oil at the bottom of the throttle body and quite a bit on the hose connecting to it (blow by?).
My valve cover leak is pretty bad now and I am going to have to tackle that sooner than I expected.
The factory coils looked ok with no signs of wear or cracking so I am holding onto them. The truck started up normally after the swap but it usually does that when I disconnect and reconnect the battery so I will report back if it the rough idle returns.
Still got the fuel pump in mind but trying to see if it's something else. Does any of these new discoveries point to anything?
My valve cover leak is pretty bad now and I am going to have to tackle that sooner than I expected.
The factory coils looked ok with no signs of wear or cracking so I am holding onto them. The truck started up normally after the swap but it usually does that when I disconnect and reconnect the battery so I will report back if it the rough idle returns.
Still got the fuel pump in mind but trying to see if it's something else. Does any of these new discoveries point to anything?
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
How many miles do you have on that plug?
With the insulator being as white as it is usually indicates a very lean condition.
A plug with the correct fuel/air mix will be tan color insulator.
Plug with a rich fuel condition insulator will be dark brown/black.
Oil can also give a black insulator color.
From the look of plug electrode you don't have many miles on it looks new.
With the insulator being as white as it is usually indicates a very lean condition.
A plug with the correct fuel/air mix will be tan color insulator.
Plug with a rich fuel condition insulator will be dark brown/black.
Oil can also give a black insulator color.
From the look of plug electrode you don't have many miles on it looks new.
Mudeprived
New member
It has abt 16k miles on it. I replaced em in early 2017.
19963.4lsr5
New member
Does the other side of the plug look the same or is there a brown circle on it near the top of the insulator?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DoctorPopcorn
New member
My truck has similar issues with 276K on the clock. Got in in Feb with 258K, have done numerous wheeling trips out to the Black Hills, Drummond Island, etc.
Started out using Mobil 1 synthetic for OCs every 3K for the first 3 OCs or so, and the engine would go through MULTIPLE quarts between changes. I brought at 5 qt jug out with me to the Black Hills the first time we went back in May. Then switched to full conventional 10W-30 to see if this would reduce my oil loss. It's help dramatically, with losing a quart or less between 3-4K OC intervals. I have horrible valve seal leaks that need to be addressed- the undercarriage looks like a horror movie.
Also slow coolant loss, and I also notice a good amount of white smoke in the mornings when I crank her over. Haven't been able to decide if it smells sweet, though. I've always turned my key to ACC to let the fuel pump work before cranking it over in all of my vehicles, and my idle with this truck is pretty dang solid. My rear heater line burst a few months back on the trails and did the quick rear heater bypass method, and filled the system back up with coolant and properly burped the system. Still slow coolant loss after this. My radiator is also original, so that would be worth replacing, too.
At this point for me, even with the leaks and losses, the thing still runs solid. When/if the engine does go, I'll be looking to ideally replace it with the 4.7L iForce. This old girl has worked hard for me since I've had it, and this poor old 3.4 doesn't owe anybody anything. I know I could rebuild it, but it might be better to just let old dogs lie. Although, to have another 3.4 out there running past 400K sounds cool, too...
Started out using Mobil 1 synthetic for OCs every 3K for the first 3 OCs or so, and the engine would go through MULTIPLE quarts between changes. I brought at 5 qt jug out with me to the Black Hills the first time we went back in May. Then switched to full conventional 10W-30 to see if this would reduce my oil loss. It's help dramatically, with losing a quart or less between 3-4K OC intervals. I have horrible valve seal leaks that need to be addressed- the undercarriage looks like a horror movie.
Also slow coolant loss, and I also notice a good amount of white smoke in the mornings when I crank her over. Haven't been able to decide if it smells sweet, though. I've always turned my key to ACC to let the fuel pump work before cranking it over in all of my vehicles, and my idle with this truck is pretty dang solid. My rear heater line burst a few months back on the trails and did the quick rear heater bypass method, and filled the system back up with coolant and properly burped the system. Still slow coolant loss after this. My radiator is also original, so that would be worth replacing, too.
At this point for me, even with the leaks and losses, the thing still runs solid. When/if the engine does go, I'll be looking to ideally replace it with the 4.7L iForce. This old girl has worked hard for me since I've had it, and this poor old 3.4 doesn't owe anybody anything. I know I could rebuild it, but it might be better to just let old dogs lie. Although, to have another 3.4 out there running past 400K sounds cool, too...
Mudeprived
New member
Well it looks like it may have been my MAF. The drive home today will confirm it.
Mudeprived
New member
A little update:
I had my fuel pump go out, then front cat imploded and clogged the rear, then injectors started leaking so i been busy replacing all this stuff. None of it fixed the rough starts and smoke shows. I happened to be replacing my battery terminals when I decided to pop off the plugs and take a peek inside the cylinders. 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 looked dry but rough layer of carbon build up. Cylinder 3 looked wet about halfway up. I don't know if it is oil, coolant, or gas but it is wet. I am thinking head gasket but the recent compression and block tests were good so I am scratching my head at this point.
I have replaced so much stuff and spent almost 2 grand so if it is the head gasket then it might be time for me to move on.
I had my fuel pump go out, then front cat imploded and clogged the rear, then injectors started leaking so i been busy replacing all this stuff. None of it fixed the rough starts and smoke shows. I happened to be replacing my battery terminals when I decided to pop off the plugs and take a peek inside the cylinders. 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 looked dry but rough layer of carbon build up. Cylinder 3 looked wet about halfway up. I don't know if it is oil, coolant, or gas but it is wet. I am thinking head gasket but the recent compression and block tests were good so I am scratching my head at this point.
I have replaced so much stuff and spent almost 2 grand so if it is the head gasket then it might be time for me to move on.
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