Morphyne's Painkiller build tread

[Morphyne]

Ok so here it is with new FJ moog springs and bilstein shoicks set at .85 in the front.



Here is the before picture for comparison.



I am kicking myself fornot taking before measurements and that the before pic is so bad. but after careful scrutiny I can say it looks higher in the back. But I am not sure. I am going to investigate further.

Anyone have stock height measurements?

 

[Nyc-Runner]

Ok so I sit here with grease still on my hands to tell you. Changing shocks and springs sucks bad. Took me a solid day and a half. Maybe more like a day because we did a alot of jacking around yesterday. But I would say I have a solid 12 hours into this project on just the springs and shocks alone.

My one piece of advice, do not attempt this swap if you don't have a set of these.



These were a life saver. absolute must for working in tight places with the shocks.

As far as the lift, I appologize but I did not take before measurements. But on old worn out stock tires front sits at 35.5 both sides and the rear sits at almost 36" (right rear sits 36.5 but that is because the spring did not seat yet. I will work on that tomorrow).

But just sitting in it it feel sooo good. It feels right. Very happy (and tired) guy today. Tomorrow is bumper and grill finishing so by COB tomorrow I should have lifted picks with repaired/repainted bumper and finished satoshi style grill.

Amen to that brotha :iagree:

 

[bojanglesSR5]

Would you recommend the moogs after the issues with the rear fitment?

 

[jow]

Morphyne,

I need the same bumper repair that was repaired before I purchased the pre owned 07 4Runner V6 2WD SR5. My concern is that the repair had no flexing ability. It cracked from touching my rubber thread padded stop (dead in the weakest spot so slow I c/n feel any resistance).

My question: Did you repair with a material that will flex or hard and will crack before it flex? My purchase was a Certified Pre Owned and the Dealer said that method of repair is approved on Certified PO Sales. Would you or others know if that is correct (vs a flexible repair?

Attached are before and after repair pictures before the purchase.

 

[Morphyne]

Fortunately for me I only had cracked paint. So nothing as severe as what you have. I have no idea how to fix that. Sorry.

 

[Morphyne]

Would you recommend the moogs after the issues with the rear fitment?

No. They are a PITA and I only got one to seat. The other one is just sitting there, defying physics. I am going to give it another go tonight. If I can get it on tonight then I would say that the Moogs are a good choice. I just wish I had before numbers to show the exact lift I got on the back.

 

[Morphyne]

Oh also, just got back from my new tires and alignment. Dude spent over and hour trying to get it to go. Got it close. But caster is still out. in is 2.5 and out is 2.4 which is where I stand. They said I wouldn't get any tire wear from that so I guess I am good.

I ended up with the standard 265/70/17 Good Year Silent Armors.

To dark for picks tonight but as it sits I have;

DF - 36 3/8
PF - 36 3/4
DR - 37
PR - 37 3/8 (this is the onle with the half seated spring so if I ever get that ***** in then it will likely be 37)

 

[Morphyne]

Final product. I LOVE this look. perfection has been achieved.

here is my before pic



after



Sorry for the horrible cell pic. I will try again tomorrow.

 

[Morphyne]

No. They are a PITA and I only got one to seat. The other one is just sitting there, defying physics. I am going to give it another go tonight. If I can get it on tonight then I would say that the Moogs are a good choice. I just wish I had before numbers to show the exact lift I got on the back.

I don't know. After having them for a while I would say they are a solid investment. I love the ride and love the idea that these springs have zero miles on them. It could have been that the wire winder at moog could have been slightly out of spec that day.

Still haven't tried to get the other one to seat. I mean besides slamming it off of every bump and curb I can find.

 

[gaterose]

My one piece of advice, do not attempt this swap if you don't have a set of these.
...
These were a life saver. absolute must for working in tight places with the shocks.

Couldn't agree more, easily one of the best purchases I've ever made for my garage.

 

[Morphyne]

Couldn't agree more, easily one of the best purchases I've ever made for my garage.

Mine were a gift from a good friend who took pity on me and knew what I would be up against. Man was he right.

 

[Morphyne]

Ok here are some better pics







Before pic for comparison

 

[Morphyne]

Update: I have put about 1000 miles on my 4runner and haven't checked the rear spring to see if it sat itself yet or if I have to intervene.

Also, after about 500 miles I notice a slight click/thunk in the driver side suspension when breaking only to find the lower ball joint boot leaking. So this Christmas break I am going to do both of my lower balljoints.

Lastly, I have been having fits getting my gril to take paint here is the thread on that.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156478-painting-frustration.html


But I figured out what the problem was. The duplicolor body match paint that was cracking was applied where the rustoleum flat black over spray was thickest. Far as I can tell, the two are completely incompatible. Even after a couple rounds of sanding and cleaning with alcohol and acetone it still cracked. So I got pissed and painted the whole thing flat black.




Which I love and hate at the same time. So last night I disassembled the grill and got some etching primer and am going to have another go at it the right way.

Back to chrome, sanded and cleaned with acetone and a slapdash of black put on. Gonna let this dry and then tape over it and then it is on to the etching primer.



Should be done and on by the end of the week.

 

[bojanglesSR5]

Update: I have put about 1000 miles on my 4runner and haven't checked the rear spring to see if it sat itself yet or if I have to intervene.

Also, after about 500 miles I notice a slight click/thunk in the driver side suspension when breaking only to find the lower ball joint boot leaking. So this Christmas break I am going to do both of my lower balljoints.

Lastly, I have been having fits getting my grillto take paint here is the thread on that.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156478-painting-frustration.html

But I figured out what the problem was. The duplicolor body match paint that was cracking was applied where the rustoleum flat black over spray was thickest. Far as I can tell, the two are completely incompatible. Even after a couple rounds of sanding and cleaning with alcohol and acetone it still cracked. So I got pissed and painted the whole thing flat black. Which I love and hate at the same time. I have a pic of this and will post when I get home tonight. So last night I disassembled the grill and got some etching primer and am going to have another go at it the right way.

Should be done and on by the end of the week.

I have pics of all this nonsense and will post them tonight.

Let me know what finally works for the grille I will probably end up painting the outside of mine. I want to do my mirrors also.

 

[olsen_karl]

Update: I have put about 1000 miles on my 4runner and haven't checked the rear spring to see if it sat itself yet or if I have to intervene.

Please let us know whether it (eventually) fit. I'm still on the fence about the Moog springs, or whether to get some aftermarket lift springs (e.g., OME).

 

[awdjunkies]

Please let us know whether it (eventually) fit. I'm still on the fence about the Moog springs, or whether to get some aftermarket lift springs (e.g., OME).

Ive contemplated this as well, Karl. fortunately/unfortunately, my XREAS is still working flawlessly so I can't yet justify the 5100s/FJs ..

 

[bojanglesSR5]

Update: I have put about 1000 miles on my 4runner and haven't checked the rear spring to see if it sat itself yet or if I have to intervene.

Also, after about 500 miles I notice a slight click/thunk in the driver side suspension when breaking only to find the lower ball joint boot leaking. So this Christmas break I am going to do both of my lower balljoints.

Lastly, I have been having fits getting my grillto take paint here is the thread on that.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156478-painting-frustration.html

But I figured out what the problem was. The duplicolor body match paint that was cracking was applied where the rustoleum flat black over spray was thickest. Far as I can tell, the two are completely incompatible. Even after a couple rounds of sanding and cleaning with alcohol and acetone it still cracked. So I got pissed and painted the whole thing flat black. Which I love and hate at the same time. I have a pic of this and will post when I get home tonight. So last night I disassembled the grill and got some etching primer and am going to have another go at it the right way.

Should be done and on by the end of the week.

I have pics of all this nonsense and will post them tonight.

After reading this again I think your problem could be the etching primer. I am under the impression that self etching primer should only be used on bare metal not plastic. My plans were to sand very well, clean with alcohol, use 4 light coats adhesion promoter, 4 light coats of primer, 4 light coats or as many needed of paint and 4 coats of clear. I have read that these steps work pretty well painting over the plastic chrome.

 

[Morphyne]

I am no expert but I think my bumper turned out with a satin type finish because I used all light coats with no last, heavy coat. Or it could be that I needed to sand in between the body color and final coat and the clear coat (which makes more sense). I am hoping I have enough time to finish tonight. I will try your method, and sanding in between body color and clear coat and see what happens.

 

[bojanglesSR5]

I am no expert but I think my bumper turned out with a satin type finish because I used all light coats with no last, heavy coat. Or it could be that I needed to sand in between the body color and final coat and the clear coat (which makes more sense). I am hoping I have enough time to finish tonight. I will try your method, and sanding in between body color and clear coat and see what happens.

Have you tried using a rubbing compound and than polishing? That should help a lot

 

[Morphyne]

White paint and red rubbing compound do not mix. But I did try polishing to little effect. its not bad. just not stock.