Most efficient way to recharge A/C?

knightsfs4

New member
So my A/C lately has been acting up and I get cool air but not nearly as much as I used to. I was going to buy one of the cans at autozone with a gauge on it and do it that way. What have you guys done?

Jack
 
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That's a decent way to "top off" the system, though be careful about the cans that have "Stop leak" in them as they can gunk up the system.

The best & proper method is to use a HVAC machine to evacuate the system, vacuum it (to test for leaks and boil off moisture in the system), and then properly recharge it.
 
That's a decent way to "top off" the system, though be careful about the cans that have "Stop leak" in them as they can gunk up the system.

The best & proper method is to use a HVAC machine to evacuate the system, vacuum it (to test for leaks and boil off moisture in the system), and then properly recharge it.

agreed.

the most efficient way is to do it correctly the first time.
if the system is low, there's a reason. better to correct it now, than to have to mess with it again later. or even worse, risk damaging an expensive component.
 
What kind of places do this? I'm about to have my timing belt done by Toyota and I was planning on just giving the guy working an extra $40 to check it out for me. There's no way I would pay anything over $100 but I need to get it taken care of. Also, when I got in my car a couple minutes ago I started hearing a "whining" noise coming from the vents and only comes on when the A/C is on. Anyone have this too?
 
If it only whines while the AC is on, it could be a compressor whine either a.
caused by a loose/bad belt (that tends to be more of a squeak) or b. low lubricant in the compressor.

Typically the lubricant for the compressor is carried in the actual refrigerant. If you have lost a fair bit, as you suggest, then it is also likely you lost lubricant and the compressor may be burning up.
 
R134 Systems are very sensitive to improper charging and using those cans from the part store may not be the answer. Since your vehicle will be at the dealership for the Timing Belt replacement, talk to them about your AC problem and ask how much it would cost to check out your AC system. AC components and repair are expensive, find out what the actual problem is first.
If the whining noise is coming from inside the vehicle with the AC on, it may be the blower fan.
 
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Are you sure? My understanding is the blower fan is always on, when the fan is on. What determines the temp air is what is moving past the blower fan. In a heat situation, hot coolant is moving across the diffuser and in an AC situation, cold freon is moving across it; similar to a home AC.
When neither system is engaged, then the blower fan is simply moving air across a net neutral temp diffuser.

Therefore if it were the heating/cooling system blower fan; it would always whine. If it is only present with AC on, it has to be an internal AC component such as the compressor. For space considerations, they don't put a separate heat and cool exchanger with their own fans. It is 1 fan that blows across both.

Right? Am I making that up? I swore that was how it was designed.
 
In post #4 of this thread "knightsfs4" stated the whining noise is coming form the vents which are inside the vehicle only when the AC is on. The AC Compressor is in the engine compartment so any whine form the compressor would be more noticeable outside, rather than inside. The single blower fan is in the evaporator housing inside the vehicle under the passenger side dash area. The fan is only running when you have the AC on to blow air through the evaporator for cold air or when it is blowing through the heater core for warm air. The duct doors direct air flow to the evaporator and heater core. If the HVAC is turned completely off, the blower fan is not running.
 

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