So i just moved from western washington, to eastern washington yesterday. Temp difference is usually over 20 degrees. at the end of my trip, water sprayed out of the front and Immedietly pulled over. It got towed and taken to a shop where they kept it and checked it all out this morning. They said all they could find was that it was low on coolant and needed a new thermostat. They did that all and it traveled the remainder of the journey fine. it sat for a few hours then i proceeded to drive it around town about 30 min and when i got back, shut it down, it sounded like the coolant was boiling. I opened up the hood, there was nothing leaking, nothing appeared wrong it just was loud and sounded like something was "boiling". Could something more than just what happened be wrong, or am i just worried. My 4runner has never been in this hot of weather the entire time I have owned it. Any advice? Thanks!
Moved to hotter location, had thermostat go out and just got it replaced - Need Advic
- Thread starter ameldrum
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BrianSD_42
New member
Just to be clear .. Was it overheating when you heard the boiling sound ... ?
Because sometimes are coolant is changed, drained or otherwise messed with there can be air bubble sounds heard through the dash.
No, it wasnt overheating. I had been paying fairly close attention since it had yesterday. it just was very loud and of course concerned me.
sterbenlicht
New member
If you had to guess where that boiling sound was coming from, could you pinpoint an area? Louder inside the truck or outside under the hood? Also, I'd give the radiator hoses a squeeze and see if they feel collapsed and check the level in the reservoir. Once it cools down completely, remove the radiator cap and see if anything funny happens when you do.
yeah, it was about the same loudness inside and out, and it was coming from radiator and overflow reservoir
I did not, not sure if they did.
they did flush the radiator and checked the hoses.
awthorn
New member
I vote bad cap. Quick check is to see if the cap is all there ( even if it is all there doesn't guarantee it is still good). Also check to see if the reservoir has fluid in it. The valve is a two way street it is also meant to replace fluids. If the system cannot relieve the pressure built up into the overflow reservoir it will continue to build pressure and boil.
Oh also go OEM if you replace the cap. I know it is double the price but like everything else you get what you pay for and the cooling system is one thing I wouldn't mess with.
Good luck and keep us updated!
Oh also go OEM if you replace the cap. I know it is double the price but like everything else you get what you pay for and the cooling system is one thing I wouldn't mess with.
Good luck and keep us updated!
JayRolla
New member
If the shop knew what they where doing they would have pressure tested the system too the rating on the cap. And they said they couldnt find issues so the cap "should" be good.
Best thing to do is go rent a pressure tester for free at auto parts store and pressure test it yourself. This will tell you if cap is bad or any leaks anywhere.
Best thing to do is go rent a pressure tester for free at auto parts store and pressure test it yourself. This will tell you if cap is bad or any leaks anywhere.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Since the pressure test is done with the cap removed and the pressure tester in its place, the cap needs to be tested separately using a cap adapter. Many pressure test kits don't come with the cap adapters. A good mechanic will have the cap adapters and test the cap.
shootmymime
New member
I vote air in the system
JayRolla
New member
Just thought of that when I was coming back in here. Im an idiot. LOL.
awthorn
New member
Best way I found to burp without a big ol hill..
-Remove cap
-Get Vehicle to temp ..the waiting game
-Turn front and rear heater systems on full blast
-Proceed to "shake" the vehicle in a humping fashion ( looks weird to the neighbors but effective)
-Slowly get idle to around 2k by reaching in front of you ( you are already "humping" the truck) Let it sit like that for about 30 seconds
-Fill rad then repeat until no bubbles are present or you are no longer needing to fill the rad from drops.
This method works best in an open garage where you are the front of it.. so neighbors just think you are shaking the truck... :bounce: Odd but it is what works for me. lol
-Remove cap
-Get Vehicle to temp ..the waiting game
-Turn front and rear heater systems on full blast
-Proceed to "shake" the vehicle in a humping fashion ( looks weird to the neighbors but effective)
-Slowly get idle to around 2k by reaching in front of you ( you are already "humping" the truck) Let it sit like that for about 30 seconds
-Fill rad then repeat until no bubbles are present or you are no longer needing to fill the rad from drops.
This method works best in an open garage where you are the front of it.. so neighbors just think you are shaking the truck... :bounce: Odd but it is what works for me. lol
