My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

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This is the Rad I pulled out of the wrecked 96. It looks like a keeper if the 97's looks like the original.


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[19963.4lsr5]

It's time to assemble the cherry picker and remove trans crossmember and see if I forgot anything.

Hopefully tomorrow my brother can help pull engine.


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[19963.4lsr5]

It's out.

I know this. I won't be pulling everything together on the 97. Way too long.

My Twin (identical) with the beard and a friend Tom.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I tried removing the rear crossover exhaust pipe. Those stainless nuts on the studs electroplated themselves to the studs. Heat (cherry red) did nothing. I'm going to drill out and re-tap the 10mm holes. I need to find a 11/32 drill bit in my collection. Sadly I'm not holding too much hope. Those studs twisted off too easily.

It will be disappointing if new manifolds plus the crossover pipe will need purchased. Umm headers?

I get the parts are old and rusty............


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[19963.4lsr5]

Starting the exhaust stud replacement. They are not perfect.....but within 1/32" of the original hole.

Edit: reading some other posts on those stainless nuts etc it looks like I should have cut them off. Some (like me) broke them or ripped threads off studs. I'm tapping to the same 10mm thread. But read that the studs may be left hand threads where they go to the manifold.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Finished with the exhaust manifold studs.

I'll need 1 nut and bolt. Next are the 3 broken studs on the crossover pipe for the CAT.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Today I finally got time to split the engine and trans and get it on the engine stand.

For those reading this looking for the correct bolts for the engine stand I purchased 12mm 1.25 pitch and 90mm long bolts at my local ace hardware. They were 5 dollars each. I'm impressed they had them. (They ((bolts for engine stand))happen to be the same size and length as the bolts for the upper control arms on my Cummins. I already had 1).

The odd ball location of the bell housing bolt holes prevented me from centering the pivot of the engine stand on the crank. It's about 2" above it.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Furthering this thing along I labeled engine harness connectors and started removing the harness. The only plug that gave me problems and broke was the oil pressure switch. So now two need replaced. The oil pressure switch and the 4WD indicator plug I forgot to unplug removing the engine.

Was pleasantly surprised

to see how clean the intake plenum was after I removed the throttle body in preparation for removing the intake halves......I expected the black buildup from condensed PCV gasses in there since there is no fuel spray to keep it washed clean.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Today I finished removing the wiring harness, pulled valve covers, and measured valve clearance. All my intake valves are ok there are a few exhaust valves that are loose. One at .021 two at .016 and two at .015. I may leave the .015's alone. So next step is to remove the exhaust cams and measure the shims and get replacements.

I also had the thumb wheel nut on my feeler gauge set come off and fall into one of the oil return ports between cylinder 4 & 6. Removing the exhaust cam will let me get it with a long magnet.

With 230,000 miles on this engine it looks real clean.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Today I removed the exhaust cams and did the final math for the 3 valves that were loose. I also got the little thumb wheel nut that fell off the feeler gauge set.

According to the micrometer readings I had 1 puck at 2.95mm and 2 that were tweaners at 2.975mm.

The exhaust valve with the 2.95 shim had 020 thou clearance. To make it .014 clearance would take a 3.07 and to make it .012 clearance would make it 3.15mm. I'm splitting the difference and getting a 3.10mm shim for that valve since they only come in .05mm increments.

The exhaust valves with the 2.975 shims both measure .016 clearance. So to get .014 it would take a 3.02mm shim and to get .012 clearance would take a 3.07mm shim. So I'll get two 3.05mm shims.

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[19963.4lsr5]

I don't know what the double dots on the cam gears mean but that's where I put them to remove the exhaust cams. One nice thing is that only one cylinder on the drivers side was depressing a exhaust valve and none on the passenger side were depressed.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I just ordered the shims from the dealer. 7.95 each. Not bad and they will be here tomorrow morning.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So I finally got around to torquing the right exhaust cam in and this happened.......

The tightest is ever got was snug. These cams were out before.


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[19963.4lsr5]

As luck would have it the exact same bolt on other exhaust cam won't tighten either. It's the end cap with the thrust bearing. Both holes are sleeved for alignment so I don't think taping out to 8mm will work. I doubt the 8mm will pass through the alignment sleeve.

So now I'm scouring (spelled wrong) Lebanon PA looking for longer 7mm X 1.00 pitch bolts or all thread. I'd like to stud the holes with 7mm if possible. Even if that means ordering it.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I found 50mm long bolts that are threaded all the way to the head. I think I can cut the head off and it will be long enough to be a stud. Tomorrow I will know the deal. If they are not long enough then it's the local MSC or Fastenall for some all thread or bolts threaded to 75mm.

There looks to be at least 3/8" of thread the bolt never reached in the bottom of the hole. I paid around a 2.50 for the 4 Bolts.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So to have a way out if the 50mm long bolts are too short......I found all thread 1 meter long and a heli-coil kit. They are both around the same price. 26 ish for the all thread I can cut to length. Or around 29 for the heli-coil kit.

Edit: I have 2 more 3.4l's to do valve adjustments too so the all thread may be the best choice. And if I pull the rest of the threads out of the head then it's heli-coil time.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Today I made studs and installed both exhaust cams. For those in the need to know......the two dots and 1 dot on the cams help you install them without depressing any valves during instal and torquing. One side it two dots (right) and other is 1 dot (left)It was butt pucker time torquing the studs and hoping they would hold.

Checked the clearance on the 3 exhaust valves after replacing shims with larger ones. (All 3 are .011 to .012).

Also cleaned valve cover gasket surfaces to prep for putting on the valve covers. I start my 5 day work stretch tomorrow. So that's it till after next Wednesday.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Half of me wants to take my ratty corroded and black from oil stains valve covers to work and bead blast them. Then flush them in the parts washer real good


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[19963.4lsr5]

Last night I bead blasted the nasty corrosion and black oil stains off the valve covers. I'll put the new spark plug tube seals in them figure out what color I'm going to paint them.

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[19963.4lsr5]

I also used my pull weight scale to test my brothers torque wrenches. His inch pound wrench I set to 144 and the scale shown 12.03 lbs or force to make it klick.

His foot pound wrench I set to 20 and it took 19.30 lbs of pull to make it klick. When I looked at the dial I wasn't quite on 20 when I tested it so the 19.3 was pretty close.

I shot videos of the two tests but haven't figured out how to imbed a video into the thread.


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