My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

What do you think? Usable?

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Its quiet, and doesnt leak. I’ll drive it tomorrow to get grocery’s.

Worth 220 dollars. I’m happy it was mandrel bent instead of kink bent. Less flow restriction.

The flange on the CAT is showing it’s age.

It came with studs and nuts for the O2 sensor and two thick gaskets. So I got a new O2 sensor gasket and new flange bolts.


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I just high temp rtv the cat flange with a new gasket. I like to weld stainless flange in place of the Original but hard to find.. :)

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I just high temp rtv the cat flange with a new gasket. I like to weld stainless flange in place of the Original but hard to find.. :)

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I have a replacement Flange from FX. I hope I never need it. I’ve also got a spare CAT section if it ever comes to that.


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They work good enough for my needs.
Are they perfect no. However, for their cost. It's probably the cheapest option for the 3rd gens.

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Well, I now have developed a puff of smoke at a cold start……it’s time to change plugs. I’ll see if anyone is darker than the others as a start.


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I went to shoot a video or picture of the smoke at first fire today and nothing……normal start.


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Just curious since we have some colder mornings could the puff of smoke just be from the temp?

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It appears to be intermittent.


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Wow... What kind of oil? What i did on my 2002 camry ( the low tension and disaster oil ring engine) was mix locus with the oil that stopped the blue smoke start that started at 100K. It seized at 190K because of the bad oil scraping ring. Toyota did make replacement rings and pistons kits for this 4 cylinder engine. My oil filler tube plugged up I cleaned it and it wasn't 500 to 600 miles later she locked up..:/
 
I’m running Pennzoil Platinum made from natural gas. The last three weeks I’ve only been driving it short 3-6 miles trips in the cold. It’s time for an oil change anyway.

I’m going to drive it to work to get everything up to temp for an extended period of time.


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Oil change and spark plug change out. I’ll do plugs tomorrow while my honey is sleeping. I’ll post plug pictures hoping all plugs have an even signature from my injector rebuild.


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Spark plug time. First change on new engine.
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The really long extension.

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It looks like all plugs are burning even. Which means all cylinders seem balanced wise with injector flow rate. Which is good since I cleaned and rebuilt the injectors myself.

Gap erosion is just over .050 thou.


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I’ll also add I went 1 heat range colder using Denso plugs equal to an NGK in heat range 6.

With the block and heads decked for the rebuild I figure my compression went up whatever .012-.015 worth of head shaving.


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So I’m replacing my Rear Lower Control arms with SPC performance units and ran across this.

Thoughts? The micrometer shows the shouldered bolt at 12.93mm on both ends and middle of the shoulder part.
The bolt that looks like it was threaded the entire length shows the same specs.

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My helper


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Last edited:
21b4a2ef4e685136d732321efa65ddb5.jpg

So I’m replacing my Rear Lower Control arms with SPC performance units and ran across this.

Thoughts? The micrometer shows the shouldered bolt at 12.93mm on both ends and middle of the shoulder part.
The bolt that looks like it was threaded the entire length shows the same specs.

257ce013f41e84308501b4fb6ec2650b.jpg


My helper


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Can you confirm that the measurements you gave are on the non threaded portion only? Assuming yes, what are the dimensions of the threaded portion? Looking at that I'm guessing it is a 19mm head and an M14-1.5 bolt. If that is the case, how loose were your old lower control arms when you pulled them? To me that looks like the threads have been worn down by a loose bushing/ sleeve.
 

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