My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

[19963.4lsr5]

This battery is far better. No lazy cranking after sitting overnight and within a minute of engine run my alt is only pushing 14a. Which means the battery is not needing recharged after sitting overnight.


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[JBurt]

That's great! I just went through the same thing with my Prius. I went through so much trouble trying to pin down a parasitic drain, but it was just a bad battery.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Stump pulling

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[dork0900]

That picture is leaving us stumped

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Well I have been hearing a jingle sound in the drivers side and had narrowed it down to the front wheel assembly.

The brake pad scraper was touching the rotor.

I discovered that inner inner Tie-Rod on the passengers side is dead also.

It’s nice to know pads on this rig can be changed without removing the caliper.

I do need to figure out if the pins are coated. I had to descale them to remove them. If OEM ones are coated I’ll get new ones so the pads float better.

When I bought this rig as my project it seemed like the PO had just put new pads and calipers and rotors on. He left the boxes with the old parts in them in it when I towed it home. 30,000 miles and the pads are shot. Interesting.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Prepping to replace the inner tie rod on the passenger side. Measurements to hard parts of the frame to try and avoid another alignment.

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[Bad Luck]

Prepping to replace the inner tie rod on the passenger side. Measurements to hard parts of the frame to try and avoid another alignment.

I thought the inner tie rods thread onto the rack all the way. Why would you need to know the rack to inner tie rod distance?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I thought the inner tie rods thread onto the rack all the way. Why would you need to know the rack to inner tie rod distance?

So I can put the steering wheel to the exact place as before to get the toe set exactly where it was before. I’m figuring the steering wheel is going to move a little wrenching on it.


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[Bad Luck]

So I can put the steering wheel to the exact place as before to get the toe set exactly where it was before. I’m figuring the steering wheel is going to move a little wrenching on it.


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So are you tightening the inner tie rod end all the way in or are you putting it back in the same spot? I can't remember if there is a lock nut or anything to hold the inner tie rod from unthreading.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

So are you tightening the inner tie rod end all the way in or are you putting it back in the same spot? I can't remember if there is a lock nut or anything to hold the inner tie rod from unthreading.

There is a key’d washer between the rack shaft and the inner tie rod. After tightening the new inner tie rod to the rack you hammer the washer against the flats of the inner tie rod. That keeps it in place.

Edit. Here is the key’d washer

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[19963.4lsr5]

Starting to put it back together.

The piece of lock wire it to put the outer tie rod back in the same place.

It only took one wack on the monkey wrench to break it loose from the rack.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I will most likely do the drivers side while I have 2 weeks off for vacation and get another alignment done.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Since my steering wheel was strait before the new inner tierod replacement I drove around with tools and kept adjusting the Tierod until my steering wheel was strait ahead while driving. Drivers side has zero play so I’m putting it off for now.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Everytime I buy 89 or higher I seem to get better fuel milage. So I’m going to run 89 for a few tanks driving to work.

This tank I had 54 miles of local driving before I started my work stretch and I got 21.5mpg. I’m currently at 60 miles and I’m still on the 3/4 tank mark. I will drive it for work the next two stretches and see what I get.


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[19963.4lsr5]

This rebuilt engine had the heads and block decked around 16 thou total so that bumped up the compression and @%1; mentions that Toyota only looks for knock above 3000rpms.

I’m also thinking of heat range 6 plugs to go one step colder.


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[photoleif]

Everytime I buy 89 or higher I seem to get better fuel milage. So I’m going to run 89 for a few tanks driving to work.

This tank I had 54 miles of local driving before I started my work stretch and I got 21.5mpg. I’m currently at 60 miles and I’m still on the 3/4 tank mark. I will drive it for work the next two stretches and see what I get.


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that's cool you're getting that kind of mpg. mine ranges from 20.2 to 21.5 most of the time, with primarily hwy miles. a couple up to 22. one anomaly of 26 a couple years ago. crazy.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

that's cool you're getting that kind of mpg. mine ranges from 20.2 to 21.5 most of the time, with primarily hwy miles. a couple up to 22. one anomaly of 26 a couple years ago. crazy.

I drive rural roads for work, this tank may be interesting. It will be work only driving no local short trips.


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[19963.4lsr5]

21.7mpg with 3 of the days at or below 40f for my morning drive to work. I guess I’m done using 89 octane because it jumped to 3.75 a gallon.


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[19963.4lsr5]

17mpg.

My worse so far. Lots of short 2 mile trips hauling yard waste. I’ll take it over 12mpg any day.


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[brillo_76]

17mpg.

My worse so far. Lots of short 2 mile trips hauling yard waste. I’ll take it over 12mpg any day.


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I mostly get 16 to 17 mpg. I rarely do many highway trips. I blame the rolling hills in my area as we are before the foot hills of the mountains.

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