My 4runner is a POS

ridgerunner19446

New member
I bought a 12 4Runner limited last September from a local dealer and it’s been a bunch of problems so far.

It started with hard starts so I had replaced the battery before the weather got cold and would have an issue with a dead battery one cold day. Turns out that the battery really wasn’t the problem. Any time the weather is below 30° that battery won’t last more than three days, if it’s really cold one day tops.
Obviously a parasitic drain. I tested it at least three times and couldn’t find anything besides a huge draw of amperage on shutdown. Somewhere I have three pages of diagnostics that I did. Took it to the dealer they found nothing.

A few weeks later all the traction control lights are coming on at startup or while driving with the 4lo light flashing. It does this sporadically. I bought a new neutral safety switch or what ever they call them for the Toyota’s. I never replaced it because the problem went away.

Everything was fine all through the summer, last week we had our first cold snap low and behold dead battery again after sitting three days, and then on my way to work tonight I hit a bump in the road the same one I hit every day because it spans the whole highway and all the traction lights come on and start flashing and this time the tach stops working and the speedometer starts going haywire. A couple hundred yards down the road the speedo and tach come back to life and only two of the traction lights are left glistening away. Here is a video of the cluster going haywire. YouTube

I know the first question will be aftermarket parts.

Yes it does have an aftermarket radio but the parasitic drain was happening before the radio had to be changed out because it stopped functioning properly.

Another is remote start yes it has one but I have no idea if it’s factory installed or aftermarket.

One of the other problems I had was with both of the rear calipers freezing on me.

Another issue I noticed is large drops in the voltage when I apply the brakes. Sometimes it will drop almost down to the first hash mark

So what I’m hunting for is if anyone else has had any of these problems with a 5th gen?

Everytime I do a search for my issues it’s always the 4th and 3rd gen trucks.
 
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I bought a 12 4Runner limited last September from a local dealer and it’s been a bunch of problems so far.

It started with hard starts so I had replaced the battery before the weather got cold and would have an issue with a dead battery one cold day. Turns out that the battery really wasn’t the problem. Any time the weather is below 30° that battery won’t last more than three days, if it’s really cold one day tops.
Obviously a parasitic drain. I tested it at least three times and couldn’t find anything besides a huge draw of amperage on shutdown. Somewhere I have three pages of diagnostics that I did. Took it to the dealer they found nothing.

A few weeks later all the traction control lights are coming on at startup or while driving with the 4lo light flashing. It does this sporadically. I bought a new neutral safety switch or what ever they call them for the Toyota’s. I never replaced it because the problem went away.

Everything was fine all through the summer, last week we had our first cold snap low and behold dead battery again after sitting three days, and then on my way to work tonight I hit a bump in the road the same one I hit every day because it spans the whole highway and all the traction lights come on and start flashing and this time the tach stops working and the speedometer starts going haywire. A couple hundred yards down the road the speedo and tach come back to life and only two of the traction lights are left glistening away. Here is a video of the cluster going haywire. YouTube

I know the first question will be aftermarket parts.

Yes it does have an aftermarket radio but the parasitic drain was happening before the radio had to be changed out because it stopped functioning properly.

Another is remote start yes it has one but I have no idea if it’s factory installed or aftermarket.

One of the other problems I had was with both of the rear calipers freezing on me.

Another issue I noticed is large drops in the voltage when I apply the brakes. Sometimes it will drop almost down to the first hash mark

So what I’m hunting for is if anyone else has had any of these problems with a 5th gen?

Everytime I do a search for my issues it’s always the 4th and 3rd gen trucks.

I'm sorry but it sounds like you bought a rental/poorly modified vehicle.

My suggestion is confirm if that remote start is aftermarket or not. If it is you need to remove it. It could/may be tied into the harness in many places so don't start hacking without tracing everything first.

Do everything you can to return the wiring harness to stock. Remove the outside variables.


I'm going to guess somewhere in that remote starter there is a connection (or many) that's shite. So in contracts in the cold (loosening the contact) and gives you weird issues but, in the summer it's a non issue (contact expand with the heat). Not a betting man but I would put a little down on that.
 
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I'm sorry but it sounds like you bought a rental/poorly modified vehicle.

My suggestion is confirm if that remote start is aftermarket or not. If it is you need to remove it. It could/may be tied into the harness in many places so don't start hacking without tracing everything first.

Do everything you can to return the wiring harness to stock. Remove the outside variables.


I'm going to guess somewhere in that remote starter there is a connection (or many) that's shite. So in contracts in the cold (loosening the contact) and gives you weird issues but, in the summer it's a non issue (contact expand with the heat). Not a betting man but I would put a little down on that.

I agree, start with removing that remote starter and fixing the harness properly. If you can't do it get it done professionally and make sure the shop knows what they're doing. I worked in the service dept of a dealer and that was the most common electrical issue, a poorly installed remote start system.

This may sound stupid, but are the battery terminal connectors properly tightened?
 
I agree, start with removing that remote starter and fixing the harness properly. If you can't do it get it done professionally and make sure the shop knows what they're doing. I worked in the service dept of a dealer and that was the most common electrical issue, a poorly installed remote start system.

This may sound stupid, but are the battery terminal connectors properly tightened?
Sounds like you worked at a dealership that likes to point fingers and do part swaps. Actual troubleshooting is a lost art.

I have a Limited with PTS and proximity key so my data may be different from yours since the prox key system draws additional current. I also have a Maestro RR module for the radio, dash cam with park recording and a remote start with Drone that draws current talking with cell towers.

I will have an initial 130ma current draw when hooking up the meter. After waiting 35 minutes the truck goes to sleep and the draw is around 60ma.

Ideally you want under 50ma.

I posted this in a different thread recently if you need something to compare results on a Limited with prox key. If I leave my truck sitting for 3 days, it will be a little sluggish to start. If i leave it outside for that amount of time in the cold I would not be surprised if it didn't start. I've also killed the battery several times on mine which diminishes the longevity each time its gone dead. It's also a cheapo walmart battery.
 
Flood damaged maybe? That's a lot of issues.

First thing that came to my mind too. Back in the day I worked on some flood damaged cars. The problems from water getting into electrical connectors and then corroding them, always cropped up some time after the flooding occurred. Often years later.

I'd start looking for signs of flood damage: Rusted interior fasteners, corroded electrical connectors, etc.
 
I bought a 12 4Runner limited last September from a local dealer and it’s been a bunch of problems so far.

It started with hard starts so I had replaced the battery before the weather got cold and would have an issue with a dead battery one cold day. Turns out that the battery really wasn’t the problem. Any time the weather is below 30° that battery won’t last more than three days, if it’s really cold one day tops.
Obviously a parasitic drain. I tested it at least three times and couldn’t find anything besides a huge draw of amperage on shutdown. Somewhere I have three pages of diagnostics that I did. Took it to the dealer they found nothing.

A few weeks later all the traction control lights are coming on at startup or while driving with the 4lo light flashing. It does this sporadically. I bought a new neutral safety switch or what ever they call them for the Toyota’s. I never replaced it because the problem went away.

Everything was fine all through the summer, last week we had our first cold snap low and behold dead battery again after sitting three days, and then on my way to work tonight I hit a bump in the road the same one I hit every day because it spans the whole highway and all the traction lights come on and start flashing and this time the tach stops working and the speedometer starts going haywire. A couple hundred yards down the road the speedo and tach come back to life and only two of the traction lights are left glistening away. Here is a video of the cluster going haywire. YouTube

I know the first question will be aftermarket parts.

Yes it does have an aftermarket radio but the parasitic drain was happening before the radio had to be changed out because it stopped functioning properly.

Another is remote start yes it has one but I have no idea if it’s factory installed or aftermarket.

One of the other problems I had was with both of the rear calipers freezing on me.

Another issue I noticed is large drops in the voltage when I apply the brakes. Sometimes it will drop almost down to the first hash mark

So what I’m hunting for is if anyone else has had any of these problems with a 5th gen?

Everytime I do a search for my issues it’s always the 4th and 3rd gen trucks.

Add the alternator to that list of checks.

Of all the modded cars I dealt with, electrical troubleshooting was my least favorite topic. I say trade it in if you still can, at least 4Runners hold their value at resale.
 
I would eviscerate the dealer on social media unless they are helping you with at least some of this. Very slim chance they knew nothing about all these problems before they sold the vehicle to you.
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Was this at a Toyota dealership or used car lot? Did you have a pre-purchase inspection done? I'm not mechanically or electrically inclined enough to deal with all those issues. I'd recommend having an independent Toyota mechanic inspect it. Maybe get in contact with Mainline Overland and see if they can either do that or know someone who can. They do a lot of builds but also do maintenance and service as well. If it ends up being too costly or too much of a headache then it sounds like you may have to dump it and take a loss on it. Although hopefully that is a last resort.

Contact Us - Main Line Overland
 
Dealers get a lot of cars at the auction, so they may not know the history.

It's also possible the owner was having the same problems (probably because of his own effed up mods) so he traded it in just to get rid of it.

It's a 2012 so might have been bought in 2011. Hurricane Sandy hit in 2012.
 
My 2 cents

One of my automotive professors way back when had a saying, "The weirder the problem, the more likely it is a bad ground". A few years as a technician proved that statement more than once.

Based on what you described, I would be very suspicious of a bad ground, whether that's a corroded cable or loose connection, or corroded connection.

The voltage drop on brake lights, the control units going crazy hitting bumps, the voltage draw (which sounds like a controller struggling with shutdown messages) would all be enabled by a poor ground.

Disconnect your battery cable cables and test the negative cable to the engine bock with an ohm meter. It should be zero. Check the negative cable to a bare body bolt. It should be zero, or very very close. Do the same to the frame. Anything above 1 ohm, and it needs further inspection.

You have ground bolts to the engine block accessible through the fender wells on both right and left. Back the bolt out, scrub the cables and mounting location with some scotch brite or sand paper and then retorque the cable and bolt.

Check your fender and frame grounds. If you have a trailer plug, make sure you don't have a green fuzzy petri dish experiment growing under the cap.

Check the wiring under the dash board on the left side kick panel to make sure someone's left foot didn't previously rub or stretch the wires.

Only after I had checked all this and did volts drops across the ground cables while the vehicle was running, would I move on to trying to diagnose the actual controllers or instrument panel.
 
[MENTION=236368]Narat_524[/MENTION] it sounds like your a SME in the matter. COULD you make a "secondary" ground to run between various points (Alternator, etc) to troubleshoot?
 
I bought a brand new 2018 ORP. I can’t leave it set for more than 48 hours else the battery is 100% dead. I had to replace my Stock Panasonic battery inside of two years. Usually people get 4-6 years out of them.

I have no electrical mods, never been in an accident, don’t abuse it, etc.

I haven’t tested for parasitic drain yet... recovering from surgery. I plan to this weekend. If I find anything I’ll post in this thread. Sounds like others have issues letting them sit for more than a few days too though.

I know this doesn’t answer any of your questions, but at least know you’re not alone :)
 
I bought a brand new 2018 ORP. I can’t leave it set for more than 48 hours else the battery is 100% dead. I had to replace my Stock Panasonic battery inside of two years. Usually people get 4-6 years out of them.

I have no electrical mods, never been in an accident, don’t abuse it, etc.

I haven’t tested for parasitic drain yet... recovering from surgery. I plan to this weekend. If I find anything I’ll post in this thread. Sounds like others have issues letting them sit for more than a few days too though.

I know this doesn’t answer any of your questions, but at least know you’re not alone :)

Is your 4Runner still under the 3/36 factory warranty?
 
First thing that came to my mind too. Back in the day I worked on some flood damaged cars. The problems from water getting into electrical connectors and then corroding them, always cropped up some time after the flooding occurred. Often years later.

I'd start looking for signs of flood damage: Rusted interior fasteners, corroded electrical connectors, etc.

My first thought too, maybe its been in salt water. Thats the worst....
 
Flood damaged maybe? That's a lot of issues.

First thing that came to my mind too. Back in the day I worked on some flood damaged cars. The problems from water getting into electrical connectors and then corroding them, always cropped up some time after the flooding occurred. Often years later.

I'd start looking for signs of flood damage: Rusted interior fasteners, corroded electrical connectors, etc.

Dealers get a lot of cars at the auction, so they may not know the history.

It's also possible the owner was having the same problems (probably because of his own effed up mods) so he traded it in just to get rid of it.

It's a 2012 so might have been bought in 2011. Hurricane Sandy hit in 2012.

I would eviscerate the dealer on social media unless they are helping you with at least some of this. Very slim chance they knew nothing about all these problems before they sold the vehicle to you.
Yes this 4 runner was bought at a dealership Certified pre owned, One owner titled in NJ with a full service history, the PO bought and serviced this truck at that dealership.
When I took it to my local dealer with the problem and they called the dealer that I purchased it from to inquire about the problem the dealer I purchased from demanded that I bring the truck back to them and they wouldn't give the servicing dealer any info on the truck.
Talk about shady as ****! I even said something to the servicing dealer they were shady and he said he never had a dealer that wouldn't give them vehicle info.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Was this at a Toyota dealership or used car lot? Did you have a pre-purchase inspection done? I'm not mechanically or electrically inclined enough to deal with all those issues. I'd recommend having an independent Toyota mechanic inspect it. Maybe get in contact with Mainline Overland and see if they can either do that or know someone who can. They do a lot of builds but also do maintenance and service as well. If it ends up being too costly or too much of a headache then it sounds like you may have to dump it and take a loss on it. Although hopefully that is a last resort.

Contact Us - Main Line Overland
I didn't want to sway anybody's idea of what might be wrong with this truck by mentioning flood in my initial post but to me all fingers point in that direction.

I have been around the wholesale end of the car business all of my adult life my friends own a large wholesale retail car business and I moonlighted for them many of year working on cars, I have pretty much seen it all especially living in Pa and him buying all over the NE USA. Mostly total shit rot boxes.

This truck lines up perfectly with hurricane Sandy. It was manufactured on 03/12 and the man that owned it had a shore house on Long Beach Island. How do I know this? He never cleared out his address book on the navigation or properly cleaned out the truck, Left business cards and all kinds of other stuff.

My in laws also had a beach house on LBI which took on three foot of water, they were on the south end of the island, this guys house was on the north end which didn't have nearly the flooding or damage. Weather the truck was there or not I will never know, but all It needed was water to the rockers to do permanent damage. And yes it would have taken a few years to catch up. Although I didn't need to be on the island either to be flood. I sold a Jeep back in 2012 to a guy in NJ who lived inland that the insurance Co. bought from his as flood. It wound up being sold by the insurance Co. at auction and wound up in N Philly abandoned. The City started sending me noticed of leins on my credit if I didn't come pick up my vehicle. Apparently it kicked back all the way to me and I had to contact the guy and get a copy of all the insurance paperwork to prove to the city that it wasn't mine. WTF.

I'm pretty sure I'm just going to dump this thing I could care less about fixing it. I don't want or need the aggravation of troubleshooting it. I'm going to take it to my friends shop, he has a guy the is an electrical genius with trouble shooting and see what he says. It's only going to get worse as time passes on.

I bought it well last year, only a few hundred over what they were wholesaling for at the time. I took it to another dealer a few weeks ago and he offered me what I paid for it last year. So I'm really only losing what I paid in taxes and out the door B.S. doc fees bla bla bla.

I will get back on here after the electrical guru looks at it and let everyone know what he comes up with.
 
How do I know this? He never cleared out his address book on the navigation or properly cleaned out the truck, Left business cards and all kinds of other stuff.

Sounds like the previous owner traded it in as fast as he could and couldn't get rid of it fast enough. Not even to clean his stuff out.

Shady.
 
i didn’t read any of the comments but , cars/trucks from 12 and lower with electrical problems have been related to hurricane sandy from my experience here in the NE.

there’s no saving it if this is the case...
 

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