My '97 "To-do" list.

[SSGN_Doc]

I have hung on to our '97 4Runner since we bought it in 2001. I've been using it as an occasional driver/back-up vehicle for the last year until the clutch master or slave cylinder went out just at the beginning of rainy season here in Washington. I limped it back home and got it into my yard and it sat there since November.

I got the clutch master and slave cylinders swapped out and it is running again. Before the clutch issue I was getting power steering whine and leaking. I know the reservoir filter needs to be cleaned out when I do the new pump install, and I'll put in an in-line filter.

She is a 21 year old rig and My daughter turns 16 next year. My plans are to begin to tackle the growing to-do list and have her help me with some of the projects, so she can be competent in the basic maintenance side of vehicle ownership. It will also force her to learn manual transmission.

Other items on the to-do list:

-Replace front sway bar links. (discovered the drivers side was broken while working on the clutch slave cylinder. Have parts in hand and should fix it this weekend.)
-Fix/replace door lock cylinders (pretty sure the pins are just worn out after 21 years).
-Replace windshield (21 years of just minor road equivalent sand blasting makes it dangerous when facing the sun, no major chips or cracks though.)
-Tires. (Cooper Discoverers are at 48,000 and have about 2/32 left before hitting minimum tread depth)
-Paint the wheels before replacing the tires. (After market alloys with some damaged factory paint.
-Seat covers or reupholstering (the drivers seat cushion is pretty broken down and the side vinyl is torn.)
-Front cup holder (I'm working on rebuilding it in a prosthetics lab with scrap materials as they become available, but may end up just replacing it, but figured it could be a bit of an experiment.)
-Plan on pulling the carpet and thoroughly cleaning it.
-Paint- (Clear coat is giving up the ghost on the drivers side door, fender, hood, and roof.)

The list of would like to do:
-Complete engine overhaul or swap. (this little 2.7 has been going strong for almost 250K, but I notice it doesn't have the same kind of power on hills it used to. Only consumes 3/4 quart of oil between changes. Been running synthetic since we bought it with 89,xxx.)

-Minor lift somewhere in the 2" range. I live near a state forest with ATV/ORV trails about 15 miles from my house. Would like it to be trail competent.

-With the above said, a rear locker and a winch/winch bumper would be on my list of desirable upgrades. The locker would even be handy in just getting up my driveway when it snows.

All-in-all, the vehicle has been well maintained but is beginning to show it's age. I'd like to refresh it a bit and have it be ready for my daughter to use once she gets licensed.

Insights, hints, changes in priorities I should consider are appreciated. Preferences in the "nice to have" category are also welcome.

 

[jgue467]

If that vehicle were inline for my daughter, I'd perform all safety items first.

Next are reliability items. Then longevity items. Then nice to haves/cosmetic stuff. You can probably figure out which items go into which bucket. Might want to add brake, radiator and LBJ checks in the first group too. Luck and enjoy! :cowboy:

 

[SSGN_Doc]

If that vehicle were inline for my daughter, I'd perform all safety items first.

Next are reliability items. Then longevity items. Then nice to haves/cosmetic stuff. You can probably figure out which items go into which bucket. Might want to add brake, radiator and LBJ checks in the first group too. Luck and enjoy! :cowboy:

Pretty much the way I was thinking. Brakes were done last summer. Radiator a couple of years ago.

Thanks

 

[Scramble]

We need pics of said vehicle first.

 

[Scramble]

3RZ's have a few issues that need to be taken care of to keep them running healthy.
1) The cast iron exhaust manifold can crack over time causing the exhaust valves to go out of alignment. Replace with Toyota stainless or aftermarket header.
2) The valves can go out of alignment on their own. (there are write ups to adjust)
3) The oil filter housing has an o-ring & gasket that need to be replaced. (this could be the loss of oil you're experiencing)
4) I change plugs & air filter every 15K instead of 30K (fixes the lose of power I start to experience)
5) Drain & change the trans fluid to Redline MT90
6) Replace all of the dried out coolant lines. If she overheats your head gasket will be toast.

Those front lower ball joints need to get changed first though.
Replace the rear differential breather plug, it clogs & ruins your rear axle bearings & seals.

Edit: Here's our 3RZ owners thread.
All of these guys are more mechanically inclined than me & are always willing to answer questions.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/202473-3rz-runners-only.html
.
.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

There's good advice above. If it were going to someone I loved, having the front anti-roll bar in working condition would be my first priority, even above the LBJs. Yes, I am serious. Everyone likes to chime in on those anti-roll bar threads with comments like "it doesn't feel like too much roll" and "works well without that front sway bar"... I have studied suspension design for years. The SECONDARY purpose of the front anti-roll bar is for vehicle feel. The primary reason is vehicle stability and safety. Without the front roll bar in place, you are actually increasing front wheel grip. That can lead to a "snap-oversteer" condition in a turn, especially if the road is wet or under any type of emergency handling. For a new driver, this is a no-brainer. Don't let her drive without a functioning front anti-roll bar!

 

[SSGN_Doc]

Thanks for the replies.

Sway bar links are the next thing as I have them in hand.
Lower Ball joints were done about 7 years ago along with the steering rack and tie rod ends.
Exhaust manifold was changed out somewhere around 2005ish but is probably another cast one.

I’m not seeing any oil leaks other than PS fluid from the pump. But I was unaware of the o-ring and gasket issue. I’ll check it out. 1/2-3/4 of a qt being burned off every 3-5k miles didn’t seem alarming to me as I get close to the quarter million mile mark.

Hoses and belts are definitely on the list for this summer. Belts will get done as I fix the PS pump. Radiator is due for a flush this summer so the coolant hoses will get swapped then.


Thanks again for the additional heads-up on things to watch for and consider.

The truck has made it pretty much around the continent during my time in the Navy. ME, CT to GA/FL , TX, CA, WA. At least all four corners. Haven’t run it across the norther route, but did the diagonal from Fl to Wa and the southern route to CA and up to WA. So, it has earned some trust as well as the routine maintenance it has received as well as the catching up I need to give it.

 

[Scramble]

Here's the old oil cooler gaskets vs new. It took me months to figure out where the leak was because it was small & only leaked when running (no drips in the driveway). You can switch to 10w30 too if you're using 5w. 250K is gonna have some ring wear.

120 by Mike Campbell, on Flickr