My better late than never build thread

Look what the big brown truck dropped off today.

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My KO2's have been perfect and still have a ton of tread left bu I have a fascination about running 255/80/17. Honestly, I should've just bought them last year when I purchased the KO2's but at the time I wanted to run the KO2 but I didn't want to pay the premium for the KO2 in the 34/10.50/17 so I went with 265/70/17. As for these KO2's, I already have them sold to a coworker of mine for his 2016 Tacoma.

Just a little taller.

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Today I mounted up one of the 255/80/17 Coopers for a test fit. FWIW, I'm running some worn out 5100's on the third notch up with some partially sagged FJ Cruiser springs in the front and some sagging FJ Cruiser springs and Daystar 1.5" spacers in the rear. My observations and random thoughts so far are;

These ST Maxx are about 1.6" taller than my 265/70/17 KO2's when mounted on the same wheel, at the same pressure, without the vehicle weight on them.

The 255's are just a hair narrower (as expected) and would be great on a 6.5 or 7" wide wheel. These 7.5" TE wheels are probably the widest wheel I would run with these 255, again just my opinion.

They are close when turning but did not rub anywhere while lightly wheeling on my property but I will probably heat/push the front fender liner even more forward and chop the body mount just a bit. I didn't test fit on the rear but I don't think I will have any issues there.

I definitely like the look of a more "filled" wheel well.

I'm not sure how folks fit a 285 or 255/80 in the factory spare location. I knew it would be close but it really rubs on the track bar. I do have a couple of ideas that may get me just enough room so I may try those next week. I probably won't mount the rest of the tires until I can get a 255 to fit up there without rubbing the track bar.

This may push me to finally get a new rear bumper with a swing-out tire carrier. I like everything about the 4x4Labs rear bumper except the price. Any suggestions for a WIY rear bumper with tire carrier?

I'm still deciding on whether or not to let my local mom and pop tire store mount and balance the tires (they mounted one today without incident but they didn't balance it) or if I should haul them 100 miles and do it myself on my buddy's tire machine, or if I should go 80 miles and let Discount Tire do it.

Sorry, no pics today. I'll get some pics up when I finally install them.
 
I finally had a chance to get my 255's mounted today.

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I had a little bit of rub on the front inner fender liner so I went directly home after the tire shop and heated, pushed, and re-drilled the inner liner as well as trim just a bit off the front bumper. Plenty of clearance there now. They are close to the cab mount but so far have not contacted it. I'll probably chop that down the road for good measure. The only place I seem to rub now is actually with the back tires when it is really flexed and they stuff in the wheel well. Luckily, it's a very minor rub that will probably go away by the time the tires are half worn.

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I was also able to stuff a 255 in the factory location by cutting off a tab above the track bar that is used to center the OEM size spare. Unfortunately, this tab doesn't allow a 255 to sit up into the spare tire well and lets it hit the track bar. This tab also keeps the tire off the charcoal canister so in it's place but a little higher up, I welded a piece of 2" x 3/16" flat strap to keep the tire off the charcoal canister as well.

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It's very close but it clears the track bar by about 3/8". In order for the 255 to sit up in the spare tire well, I had to let all the air out, get it into place, then refill the tire. It's a very tight fit and what I would consider the largest tire that could possibly fit there. A half worn 255 would probably fit no problem so I may do a 5 tire rotation until I reach that point.

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The long term plan is to purchase or build a high clearance rear bumper with a swing-out tire mount. Hopefully, the OEM tire hoist is strong enough to hold this 255 up there for now.

As for the tires themselves, I like them so far. They're not as quiet as the KO2's but they are quieter than the KO's on my 5th gen. I wouldn't be surprised if these do get loud over time though. I have 40 psi in them and there is barely any sidewall bulge which leads me to think I could probably run them at 35 psi and be OK. For a Load Range tire these Coopers ride amazingly smooth, maybe even smoother than the KO2's. They handled the little bit of dirt and sand today with ease. I haven't driven on them enough to determine if these pull like some say they do or if the tire shop did an OK job on balancing. So far I'm a happy camper.
 
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I finally got around to installing the RCI skid and filler plates today. I purchased these through a group buy last year but just never had time to put them on until today. The timing was good because I also needed to change the oil and install the Fumoto drain valve.

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I installed some Wheeler's Offroad Superbumps today. I was planning on getting some due to a plate bumper and winch I have planned but a couple weeks ago I bottomed my suspension pretty hard and it made it more than evident that the OEM bumpstops are lacking. It also made it evident that these 5100s with close to 100k on them are about shot. So, I was happily traveling down a red clay dirt road in the rain, ST Maxx slinging the mud like a boss, and came up on a truck coming the other way. I went to the side of the road to give him room but I didn't slow down much. Unfortunately, I didn't see where the road was washed out on the side. My passenger tires hit it and I could tell instantly the 4Runner bottomed out pretty hard. Got to work and gave a quick once-over to look for damage but didn't see anything. Next day at home, I was looking over the front again and noticed that the UCA made contact with the upper fender well along with the tire. Now, I kind of expected the tire to make contact but I was surprised that the UCA also made contact. I hate to lose up-travel but I also don't want the UCA smacking the fender well. I may do a 1" body lift once I install the bumper if the bumper has enough adjustment. Hopefully, these Superbumps will help when I really bottom it out.

Here you can see how much taller the Superbumps are. \/

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I've had some hard landings over the years but these bumpstops rarely touch the LCA. \/

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Hopefully, these will start absorbing the impact before the coilovers run out of stroke. \/

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Initial short drive test doesn't feel any different BUT I haven't hit any really big potholes or bottomed it out yet. Testing to continue.....

I find it ironic that the day I install better bumpstops is also the day the county decides to patch potholes and actually does a good job at it.
 
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It's been a while since the last update so I guess it's time to catch up.

I had to use the 4th gen to transport a couple of Jeeps from NM to Phoenix. In order to safely accomplish that I installed a electric trailer brake controller and a set of air bags. Unfortunately, I just realized I never took any pics of said air bags but it looks pretty much just like any other airbag install.

I picked up this brake controller from Amazon fairly cheap. It's a very basic controller that was roughly the physical size I wanted and I liked the way the face was slanted. The square body was ideal for this location since I didn't use the included bracket to mount to the fuse panel door but instead used industrial double sided tape.
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With the brake controller and airbags installed, the 4th gen was ready for towing duty. One at a time I transported these Jeeps to Phoenix. The 4runner did amazing on both trips traveling around 65 mph. Never once did the transmission or anything else get hot.

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Fast forward about a month.

I picked up this 15 lb CO2 setup from Instant Air Supply through a group buy in TW. I mounted it in the cargo area using one of the quick fist mounts bolted through the plastic panel and by using a few bungie cords. Surprisingly, it seems very stout and moves very little. Eventually, it will get moved to the rear bumper I plan on building but for now this will work. It will be nice being able to air down on the trail and air up for the drive home.

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My wife and I finally found some time to take a little day trip to the mountains. We joined a good friend of mine and explored all over the Zuni Mountains. We found some of the coolest water falls I think I have ever come across out there. Unfortunately, there was very little water running over. Guess I need to go see these in the early spring.

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This is what it looks like with just a little bit of water.

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Bringing this thread up to speed, the airbags were great for some heavier towing in May but even at the minimum pressure, you can feel them back there. To make matters worse, the Bilstein 5100's have about 100k on them and one of the rear shocks is leaking. I miss the smooth ride it once had and really miss it after driving my 5th gen which is very nice over any terrain.

Some parts have been showing up at my door for a suspension update. Bilstein 6112's and some used Icon 2" springs have been delivered so far. Just waiting on the rear Fox shocks and new stem bushings for the 6112's. Not in the picture, but sitting on my toolbox, are new OEM rear spring isolator/bump stops. I cut the original ones for the airbag install. Had I known how hard it is to find the isolators, I wouldn't have cut the originals.

Also, some sliders from Stubbs Welding have found their way to my garage. I can't say enough good things to say about Richard at Stubbs Welding. He worked through 4th of July weekend to get these sliders to me so I have enough time to install them before the FJ Summit.

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If all goes as planned I should have most of this installed by next weekend. I'll try to keep this thread updated with the progress.
 
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Did some quick-n-dirty (literally) fit testing with the sliders today. I love how these follow the body lines.

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I just need to primer, paint and install these now.
 
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Got the sliders primed and painted today as well installed the Icon 2" rear springs (bye, bye airbags), Fox shocks and made some rear bumpstop extensions. I need to look for a more progressive type bumpstop or I may slap a set of Superbumps back there.

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I used this Hammered paint for the sliders. I was hoping it would be a little more black. Oh well.

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Sort of a productive day today. I welded the sliders on today and installed the Bilstein 6112's tonight.

No going back now!
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Threw these in after dinner. 4th notch up, 1/4" spacer on the driver side. Ended up with the passenger side being a 1/4" higher. After a short test drive and going over some bumps to settle the front, it lifted the front 2". What is interesting is I was running 5100's on the 3rd notch up (1.75") and FJ springs. I'm guessing those springs were sagging worse than I thought. I do know that over time the ride quality really went downhill. Can't wait to drive this thing more tomorrow.
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I had my 4runner aligned today and drove it around some. Much more controlled yet smooth ride with the 6112's, Icon rear springs, and Fox shocks. I went down some of our 3rd world country roads at speeds that usually make me cringe but now they don't even feel like the same roads. So happy to have this 4runner driving properly again.

Now to be totally honest with everyone, while the 6112 may be the most robust front OEM style coilover out there, these are not on the same level as a coilover from King, Fox, and especially Icon. Also to me, there's quite a bit of difference between how my 5th gen with Icons rides and how these ride. The Icons on my 5th gen are remarkable a soaking up every bump. These 6112s are kind of close but there is a difference. However, It could be from having these set on the 4th notch up. The other big difference is wheel travel. Granted, I'm spoiled with the extended travel Icons but these 6112's don't seem like they have much travel. In fact, I swear I felt them top out a couple times today when I wasn't pushing them that hard. Again, this could be related to having them set on the 4th notch up which lifted the front more than I was expecting. Hopefully these settle a little. Also, I may order the Toytec tophat which gives some lift and drop these to the 3rd notch to see if that helps. On the other hand , you could buy 2 sets of these for what basic Icons cost.
 
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Decided to de-badge today. Hit a snag however. It seems that the SR5 has left its mark for life. All around the letters the paint is pitted. The 4WD letters came off perfectly and have left no trace whatsoever. I've owned this 4runner since 2008, no wrecks, but it almost looks like the SR5 was put on when the paint was tacky and the 4WD later or the sand and tiny rocks only found there way behind the SR5. Kind of bummed and a little nervous the rest of the emblems will turn out this way so I'm holding off on those. I've tried 3 different polishing compounds and a foam buffing wheel to get it this good but the pitting is deep and I don't think its gonna buff out.

My friends, I need your help and opinions of what to do next. Do I,
1. Leave the letters off and live with it.
2. Put the letters back on and live with them
3. Put the letters back on and plasti-derp them
4. Cover this mess with some sort of sticker
5. Trade it in and be done with this and the irritating sunroof rattle from hell :frusty:

Below is what it looks like.

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I realize you posted this some time ago now, and it looks like you put them back on at some point, but mine did the exact same thing when taking them off. Jaw to the floor when I felt them and I was sure they were etched into the paint. I took a clay-bar and polished it with some serious elbow grease. Every bit of it came out. Not sure if this is the same in your case? :noidea:

Also, great looking truck.
 
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Thanks!

I didn't try a claybar but I tried a couple different polishing compounds and while some of it buffed out, most of it was just too deep.
 
We got home safely from FJ Summit X last night but I didn't have time to post anything until tonight. Our 4Runners did great on all the trails especially my 4th gen. Between running the caster at 4° thanks to the SPC UCAs and using 4low without the center diff locked (more on that in a minute), I could turn sharper than just about everyone on our trail runs. In fact, while going down Black Bear Pass, I only had to do 3-point turns at 2 or 3 of the switchbacks. The new suspension and the slightly taller ST Maxx tires were also a nice improvement over how my 4th gen performed last year. I aired down the Coopers to 21 psi and they were smooth on the trail but had really good traction on every surface. Also, the sidewalls of the Coopers don't really show any wear or much indication they were in a bunch of rocks. However, the KO's on my 5th gen look really beat up after the same trails. Another thing I fixed before going this year is the cb antenna bracket. Part of it broke last year on Imogene pass and while I sorta fixed it there, it was never completely fixed. I added some extra support as well for the antenna bracket and it held up great.

A couple things didn't work for me this year at the Summit. First, I tried a couple times to get the center diff locked but it never would lock. The 4runner did just fine without it locked though. I guess that's the next thing to crap out.

The other thing I didn't like was the sway bar disconnects that I purchased through a member on here. While the idea is nice, the function is a little off due to the sway bar being mounted to the axle instead of the frame. The disconnects are a little noisy when fully "connected " but when disconnected, they are downright obnoxious and bad sounding. The sway bar kept getting caught on the frame when flexing and it would sound like a gunshot when the ends broke free. I think I will just remove the whole bar if I get concerned about loosing flex.


I have a ton of pictures and videos of the FJ Summit to go through but I will be posting them up as I go.
 
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Yeah more pics!

I had a couple of friends out there riding big BMW adventure bikes telling me "you missed some sort of FJ/4runner convention out here!" :sobbing:
 
Yeah, there were quite a few bimmers on the trails, especially Imogene pass. In fact, there were a lot more bikes and UTVs on all the trails compared to last year. Imogene coming from Telluride looked to be the most challenging on two wheels though. Once you start climbing, the rode is basically 3" - 5" semi rough gravel and that is where the majority of the bikes were having issues. I had to jump out of my 4runner to help some guy on a xr600 that stalled in a bad position and he was probably a little too short to be riding a tall bike like that.

It took me back watching all the bikes struggle on Imogene pass to my teen years and trying to climb this one road here that goes up and over a mesa where we lived. The rock on that road and the steep road itself definitely requires the right amount of power, weight, balance and overall finesse to conquer. My friends and I all have scars from wiping out our bikes on that road.
 
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