My first Yota!

Captain

New member
Just purchased my first Toyota today!

It's a 97 SR5 with 235k on the clock. I had a good mechanic friend look it over before I pulled the trigger. I do have some minor concerns with the truck that I wanted to pick your guys' brains over for:

(I'm no mechanic, but am eager to learn)

1. Valve cover gaskets are leaking pretty badly. My friend didn't quote me a price, so how much would the dealer charge for that? Or something a newbie mechanic like myself could handle?

2. Check engine light is on. Had no way of reading the codes since it's OBD 1. Any links or help trying to read codes for OBD 1 would be great.

3. Brake light is intermittent. There's a pretty good leak coming from the rear driver's side axle seal. Friend told me that would be expensive, so I'll probably hold off on this for now, unless it's super important?

4. E-brake is tight, but doesn't do anything when you pull it up.

5. I'm sure I could find a thread on here about oil, but what oil/fluids would you guys recommend for the 3.4?

6. The timing belt wasn't accessible without removing the plastic cover, so I had no way of checking it. My friend assured me I need'nt worry, that the belt is protected and can last 15+ years. I thought that was a little odd...

All in all I'm happy with it, it's 100% rust free and I think I got a pretty good deal on it for $2000.

Thanks guys!

:peace:
 
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Congrats on purchase!!!

VC are standard leakers on these engines. You s/b able to DIY.

These trucks have ODB2, not 1.

yeah leaking rear drum seals is standard, again on these vehicles. It is SUPER important cuz the leaks will make the rear brakes not work!

Not sure about ebrake.

Engine oil, go Full synthetic, name brand you like.

Timing belt change is encouraged every 100K. The engines are non-interference but it's a major pain if it occurs while driving!

Read all this then come ask more questions: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ormational-threads-must-read-new-members.html

Luck and enjoy! :cowboy:
 
Just purchased my first Toyota today!

It's a 97 SR5 with 235k on the clock. I had a good mechanic friend look it over before I pulled the trigger. I do have some minor concerns with the truck that I wanted to pick your guys' brains over for:

(I'm no mechanic, but am eager to learn)

1. Valve cover gaskets are leaking pretty badly. My friend didn't quote me a price, so how much would the dealer charge for that? Or something a newbie mechanic like myself could handle?

EZ fix.

2. Check engine light is on. Had no way of reading the codes since it's OBD 1. Any links or help trying to read codes for OBD 1 would be great. OBD 2, go to Autozone, or buy a $20 code reader off Amazon.

3. Brake light is intermittent. There's a pretty good leak coming from the rear driver's side axle seal. Friend told me that would be expensive, so I'll probably hold off on this for now, unless it's super important? Brake light is probably simply a bad connection. Axle seal isn't super expensive if you DIY. It's a highly documented procedure, and I would NOT recommend delaying this.

4. E-brake is tight, but doesn't do anything when you pull it up. Check where it's binding and check your rear shoes. Super simple system. EZ fix.

5. I'm sure I could find a thread on here about oil, but what oil/fluids would you guys recommend for the 3.4? Whatever it says on the cap. Genuine LLC coolant only. Get right GL ratings for diffs and xfer cases. OEM trans fluid.

6. The timing belt wasn't accessible without removing the plastic cover, so I had no way of checking it. My friend assured me I need'nt worry, that the belt is protected and can last 15+ years. I thought that was a little odd... Mileage is key here. It's not an expensive job, when in doubt, replace it. You're lucky it's not an interference engine.

All in all I'm happy with it, it's 100% rust free and I think I got a pretty good deal on it for $2000.

Thanks guys!

:peace:

Replied inline for you above. Also, unless you have documentation on lower ball joints, and radiator (assuming automatic) replace those ASAP with OEM.
 
Congrats. Yotas are great to own. Only my mother’s 2008 Camry was too terrible to wear the Yota badge.

Read up, there are plenty of threads for DIY repair.

When you do tackle the rear axle seals make sure to change out the breather on the axle.

This engine is easy on oil, pick any API approved one.
 
Welp, I may be finding out why I got it for such a good deal:

Read the codes, throwing two P0773 codes, the dreaded shift solenoid.

I checked my trans fluid, it's very dirty. However my Runner shifts smooth in and out of all gears.

I've read a few posts on here with replies saying your trans could be going out...should I be scared?

Thinking of taking it into the dealer for a trans flush/service and crossing my fingers that clears it....next best thing would just be replacing the solenoids I'm guessing? :confused:
 
Welp, I may be finding out why I got it for such a good deal:

Read the codes, throwing two P0773 codes, the dreaded shift solenoid.

I checked my trans fluid, it's very dirty. However my Runner shifts smooth in and out of all gears.

I've read a few posts on here with replies saying your trans could be going out...should I be scared?

Thinking of taking it into the dealer for a trans flush/service and crossing my fingers that clears it....next best thing would just be replacing the solenoids I'm guessing? :confused:

Changing solenoids isn't hard. Drain fluid, drop pan, remove filter, replace solenoid. Reverse & done. Search for it here on the forums and you'll find photos and part numbers.
 
Changing solenoids isn't hard. Drain fluid, drop pan, remove filter, replace solenoid. Reverse & done. Search for it here on the forums and you'll find photos and part numbers.

If my trans fluid is dirty, is it okay to change it or will I potentially ruin my tranny? I want to see if dirty fluid is the cause for this code being thrown.
 
If my trans fluid is dirty, is it okay to change it or will I potentially ruin my tranny? I want to see if dirty fluid is the cause for this code being thrown.

No it should be ok, it just may not shift correctly. Burnt/low/high transmission fluid can cause issues but just know you'll need to drain and refill it anyway if you have to replace the solenoid.
 
throwing two P0773 codes, the dreaded shift solenoid.
...

Mine threw a 773 a couple years ago, reset it and it never returned. I don't think it means anything is going wrong with your trans IF it drive OK otherwise.

If the tranny is in otherwise good condition, a drain/fill or a full flush won't hurt anything, I've done it 3 times in 10 years.

As others stated, look for the age code on the radiator and consider replacing it - cheap $100 insurance to avoid the pink milkshake.

Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:
 
Mine threw a 773 a couple years ago, reset it and it never returned. I don't think it means anything is going wrong with your trans IF it drive OK otherwise.

If the tranny is in otherwise good condition, a drain/fill or a full flush won't hurt anything, I've done it 3 times in 10 years.

As others stated, look for the age code on the radiator and consider replacing it - cheap $100 insurance to avoid the pink milkshake.

Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:

Just did a drain and fill today, man was that fluid nasty! Drove her about 75 miles today, up the canyon and on a trail. No issues whatsoever. Then on the highway. She shifted smooth as butter every mile.

The light did come back on though, at this point it doesn't make sense to change the solenoids, how could they be bad if the trans is performing perfectly? (But I'm no mechanic) Maybe an electrical/CPU issue?

I will for sure get a new radiator on her. I've read the horrors of the milkshake, would be best to avoid that...
 
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Also, I gave her a free lift today and removed the running boards! Boy was that a fun one....those rusty bolts had me cussing like a sailor. :frusty:

So much better! I really enjoy the Runner without the boards.
 

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