My "New" 4Runner Project

[168981]

Hey guys,

Kinda new to the forum. I've been browsing hard for the last 2 weeks looking over other people's build threads, and I've decided this is something I would like to do as well.

I have a '99 4Runner SR5 5-speed manual. I've come to the conclusion it is a Highlander edition, with the 1999-4x4-5speed-Elocker-hood scoop-fog lights-5star combo. I picked it up at a dealership a month ago after some sophomores rolled my '97 SR5. I got this '99 for $5500, with 217k. This will be my daily driver, but I think if I could, I can go 70road/30off-road.

I am based in Colorado Springs, and will be here for another 2 years, so I need to take advantage of the locale while possible (Any suggestions for trails and whatnot?). I want to do as much of the upgrades myself as I can, so I can actually learn how to turn a wrench, but I only have limited knowledge.

Everything on her is stock (as far as I can tell), except for the wheels, which are Dynapro ATM P265/75R16.

Took her out today for a little dirt road action up Mount Herman Road, nothing crazy.



So, onto the big meaty things: MODS
This is my first time doing this kind of stuff, so I don't really know that much. I have been picking up on some things while browsing, so I am not completely clueless. However, this is where I will need you guys' expertise.

First off, wheels:
Like I said before, I am running DynaPros ATM 265/75/16s. I was thinking 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer AT3s on these Split 3 spoke 16" rims I found off of CL. However, a deal popped up for a set of ATPs, but I'll have to buy the Ford-compatible rims that comes with it (American Outlaws rims).

I went to a tire shop and talked to a guy about putting 285s on. He said there might be some rubbing issues? I am thinking this can be solved with some wheel spacers and some trimming.

Front:



Back:



Lift:
I was thinking Toytec coilovers in the front and Bilstein 5100 or 5125 with OME 890s. Maybe a couple inches of lift in the front, and +1.5-2" in the back to get a rack going? I've also heard to use Land Cruiser rear coils. :noidea:

Other money sinks:

I thought about doing the Tundra brake upgrade. I suppose I have to do the 199mm since I have 16" rims? Unless I keep the 5 spoke rims, then I can go up to the 231mm?

I really like snivilous's top side light bars. I think I will make that happen.

I will definitely take off the running boards (Is there a market for that? They are in fairly good shape if anyone wanna buy...:eyebrows and possibly weld on some skids.

As you can see, the back panel's paint is all messed up (the dealer said they found her like this). How expensive would a paint job be? I thought about a DIY paint job, but I live at school, and we don't have garages.

I've been having problems with my MPGs. On my '97, I could get almost 500 miles on a full tank of 85s. However, I can barely get 250 with a full tank of 87s in this girl. I reset the EFI (pull the relay for 30 minutes), but that's about it. My mechanic said everything looks good after he did a full service check, but I am not ruling out having to do seafoam, etc etc.

Maybe it's the way I am driving? I usually rev it up to 3000rpm before upshifting, but I've changed the way I drive to keep it below 2500rpm while on the road.

Anyways, I've rambled on long enough. Any and all help/advice is welcomed!

 

[PhdNPrerunners]

Congrats on finding what is considered the unicorn of 4runners. It sounds like you have some really good plans for your 4Runner.

When it comes to the 231 TBU your current 5 star wheels will clear them. Also when it comes to your mileage you are getting right around where you are suppose to. You say you were getting 500 to a talk in your 97 but that would mean you were getting close to 30 MPG which is highly doubtful in a 4Runner.

Looking forward to see you start modding your rig. I was lucky enough to find one already done lol.

 

[Troybylt]

First of welcome, and nice score on that Imerial Jade Manual man she's got all the goodies, she looks great! And a factory locker to boot, I have a locker behind my couch, one day I'll get around to throwing it in...

You can definitely do 70/30 on/off and still be comfortable no problems, which I suppose you should know as you had a 97. May she rust in pieces. But hey
, CUPHOLDERS!

Colorado is beautiful contry I have only visited briefly so I can't recommend anything specific but just (north I think) of South Park I did some trails on ATV's with my buddies there.

It's also nice to be stock, gives you the opportunity to do everything right and it's more likely it hasn't been abused as much.

I frankly would stick to your Five stars, if you do decide to trade out they will sell quickly on the classifieds here. Your 5 stars will clear the 231mm TBU wich I can't recommend enough. Swim on over to user [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] 's hard to find specs and measurements resource thread for the TBU for more info. (And to doubke check on the 5 stars as I have 199mm and split 3 spokes)

I currently am running a 265/75 r16 tire and I OCCASIONALLY rub, but unless you through on a body lift or suspension lift I think any 285 is going to annoy you with how much it rubs but your milahe may varry. Yes the 5100's all around is a great upgrade and the land cruiser 7.5/8 wraps (land cruiser front springs in your rear) and first gen tundra yellow blues is a great and very common small lift for those trying to maintain a stock apperance with some offroad prowess.

I think some of your pics didn't come through, you may try hosting images from an off site host. I can't see the damage, but as our trucka are so old a paint job on thw insurance will usually total it. You can expect to pay a minimum of 3k for paint and upwards of 4 or 5 for good paint. Least that's my experience around here, theres always cough cough macco but I would NOT recommend their cheep paint job specials.

As for MPG 250 miles a tank is average for most of us I belive, it's about what I get but keep in mind our gas gauges are notoriously bad at reading when low, my needle can be below thw lowest line and I can only put 15.5 gals in an 18 gal tank. Did you have the 4 cyl in your 97 and was it 2wd as 500 is unheard of absurd even for a 4 banger by my fast math (500 miles dev18 gal is 27 MPG, you should be happy with 17mpg)

I usually rev to just under 3k and shift, our motors as others have done studys can be reved really high (like possibly a 9k rev limit) without issues. Our 5v's have been cammed for low end torque wich craps out the top end but hey, it's a truck not a race car. I cruise at 68mph and 2500rpm even everywhere I go.

Anyways, welcome and feel free to ask for help, but you may get scolded for not trying google and search first for simple stuff.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

Congrats!! She's a beauty.

For mpg you're doing about average for the v6. I have the 4 banger and my goal is to make it to 23-24 for my own personal goal. Right now I'm doing 19 or so crawling through colorado territory loaded with family, family stuff, and my top racks with a rocket box. Beyond a tune up and a seafoam treatment (gas tank, vacuum line, and crankcase) I would spin your fan to make sure it spins freely. Fan drag can add up to a couple of mpg. After that look at your tires. Heavy tires hurt a lot too as well as wide tires. Whenever I get to lifting my truck further I'm going with 255/85r16. Oh and try running premium. My neighbor ran a Scangauge and the increase in mpg was bigger than the increase in price for him. I wasn't ready to believe him till I did my own testing.

Based in Colorado Springs eh? Air Force?

If so see if the base has the auto hobby shop. That will at least give you tools and a good space to work.

If not there are quite a few members in the Colorado area.

Good luck and have fun with your new yoda.

 

[tip]

Nice purchase, I'm jealous!

I would figure out your lift before you get tires. And I'd keep the 5 stars, they are just a good looking wheel IMO.

 

[168981]

reply

Wow... having trouble replying even though my message is DEFINITELY not too short...

Thanks all! I am pretty happy with the find. Definitely a great upgrade from the '97.

I suppose the 231 would give me greater braking power, but I'd have to trim/cut up the dust shield. I also dropped $125 on those split 3's, so I'd have to sell them.

Since I planned on lifting her, I might as well get the 285s. Rubbing shouldn't be a problem then. So from the looks of it, 5100 with 7/8 wraps in the back, with Tundra yellow blues in the front?

I usually averaged at least 300 a tank on the '97 V6 4wd, that 500 was more of a freak accident that raised my standards unreasonably high, but that doesn't stop me from trying to reproduce that kind of endurance. I honestly just want to get my MPG up cause I know it will drop again once I get new tires :biggrin2:

The base I am at has an auto hobby shop, but I'd have to get checked out first. I know like nothing about this, so there will be a bit of a learning curve for me.

I am kinda interested to see who is in Colorado, preferably Denver-COS area. I know a lot of people are up in Fort Collins. It'd be nice to have some pros around to reference and school me up.

Feast your eyes:



Stock flex?



Poor bae

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Wow... having trouble replying even though my message is DEFINITELY not too short...

Thanks all! I am pretty happy with the find. Definitely a great upgrade from the '97.

I suppose the 231 would give me greater braking power, but I'd have to trim/cut up the dust shield. I also dropped $125 on those split 3's, so I'd have to sell them.

Since I planned on lifting her, I might as well get the 285s. Rubbing shouldn't be a problem then. So from the looks of it, 5100 with 7/8 wraps in the back, with Tundra yellow blues in the front?



I usually averaged at least 300 a tank on the '97 V6 4wd, that 500 was more of a freak accident that raised my standards unreasonably high, but that doesn't stop me from trying to reproduce that kind of endurance. I honestly just want to get my MPG up cause I know it will drop again once I get new tires :biggrin2:

The base I am at has an auto hobby shop, but I'd have to get checked out first. I know like nothing about this, so there will be a bit of a learning curve for me.

I am kinda interested to see who is in Colorado, preferably Denver-COS area. I know a lot of people are up in Fort Collins. It'd be nice to have some pros around to reference and school me up.

Feast your eyes:

View attachment 135500

Stock flex?

View attachment 135501

Poor bae

View attachment 135502

Even with the lift I believe you'll still rub those 285/75 16's. I would really like to know how to put these tires on without cutting, trimming or anything like that, but after researching it seems like it can't be done. Also, seems like they may rub on the UCA's with the 16" five stars. I was thinking about some new UCA's to help with caster (which helps with pushing the wheels forward and get some of my caster drivability back) Maybe some spacers also. I think I may just start a thread to see who is running 285's with NO cutting or trimming/ pounding etc.

 

[MStudt]

Even with the lift I believe you'll still rub those 285/75 16's. I would really like to know how to put these tires on without cutting, trimming or anything like that, but after researching it seems like it can't be done. Also, seems like they may rub on the UCA's with the 16" five stars. I was thinking about some new UCA's to help with caster (which helps with pushing the wheels forward and get some of my caster drivability back) Maybe some spacers also. I think I may just start a thread to see who is running 285's with NO cutting or trimming/ pounding etc.

I run 285/75/16's with zero issues. Never had rubbing, and never had to do any cutting. I'm also not running wheel spacers, have done no cutting, and not even a single tap of a hammer.

 

[Hepar]

Beauty! Look forward to seeing the progress. Love the green.

One issue with removing the running boards is with those types of boards and flares, it will leave a weird section on the front flares. Toyota did make a set of mud flaps to accommodate those flares, but they are yeti of the 3rd gen parts.

 

[168981]

I run 285/75/16's with zero issues. Never had rubbing, and never had to do any cutting. I'm also not running wheel spacers, have done no cutting, and not even a single tap of a hammer.

From what the tire guys told me, they said 285s would be no problem as long as I get a lift. Plus I have a different front bumper than you, if I am seeing correctly. Honestly though, I don't mind taking a small bit off the front, its the back that has me worried, cause I'd have to do more to clear it.

Beauty! Look forward to seeing the progress. Love the green.

One issue with removing the running boards is with those types of boards and flares, it will leave a weird section on the front flares. Toyota did make a set of mud flaps to accommodate those flares, but they are yeti of the 3rd gen parts.

Yea, I was looking at where the boards connect to the flares, and there will be a section showing bare skin :embarassed:

Maybe I can savage the flares and mudflaps off of my '97? Would that fit on this gal?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I run 285/75/16's with zero issues. Never had rubbing, and never had to do any cutting. I'm also not running wheel spacers, have done no cutting, and not even a single tap of a hammer.

What's your setup? I looked at your build - nice truck by the way - and not sure about your exact specs and such. Did you get the Eibach coils in there? Looks like you have 891's. I have 890's which should provide the same lift. Do you have a body lift? What exactly are those rims? That may be the key - the backspacing on the rims. Sorry about all the questions but it just seems like everyone that had 285's had to do some sort of trim/cut/pound, which I want to avoid. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: I just saw in your build where you posted links to your tires and rims. I think that the rim diameter and backspacing helps a lot with the rubbing.

 

[MStudt]

What's your setup? I looked at your build - nice truck by the way - and not sure about your exact specs and such. Did you get the Eibach coils in there? Looks like you have 891's. I have 890's which should provide the same lift. Do you have a body lift? What exactly are those rims? That may be the key - the backspacing on the rims. Sorry about all the questions but it just seems like everyone that had 285's had to do some sort of trim/cut/pound, which I want to avoid. Thanks in advance.

I'm running Eibach's and 891's. The wheels are American Outlaw Buckshot's. You might need to run spacers, but you might not as well. I was on stock wheels for about a month and still didn't rub. My UCA is about 3/4" from the tire right now. I do rub a little at full stuff in the rear, but nothing to I'm worried about. The tires are more so making contact with the mudflap screws than anything.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I'm running Eibach's and 891's. The wheels are American Outlaw Buckshot's. You might need to run spacers, but you might not as well. I was on stock wheels for about a month and still didn't rub. My UCA is about 3/4" from the tire right now. I do rub a little at full stuff in the rear, but nothing to I'm worried about. The tires are more so making contact with the mudflap screws than anything.

I assume OEM UCA. If so, this is very encouraging. Do you think the tires make a difference? Oh , and I don't mean to hijack the OP thread but it seems like he might be doing something more similar to my lift and your advice could be very helpful to both of us. Thanks so much!

 

[MStudt]

I assume OEM UCA. If so, this is very encouraging. Do you think the tires make a difference? Oh , and I don't mean to hijack the OP thread but it seems like he might be doing something more similar to my lift and your advice could be very helpful to both of us. Thanks so much!

Not all tires are created equal!

 

[168981]

I assume OEM UCA. If so, this is very encouraging. Do you think the tires make a difference? Oh , and I don't mean to hijack the OP thread but it seems like he might be doing something more similar to my lift and your advice could be very helpful to both of us. Thanks so much!

You are just asking all the questions I should be asking, but don't know how to ask. Carry on.

 

[168981]

Arc is selling a set of LC 9 wraps, and he is only an hour away!! 9wraps will give me about 5" of lift, according to

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

and will sag. So I figure with all the crap I keep in my trunk, I can get that 4" lift in the back?

Also, SnoRunnerUT is selling front and rear 5100s. There are some rumbling about them being a little expensive. Looks like I can get the rears for <$100 and the fronts for also <$100 (unless I am looking at the wrong things; just typed in "bilstein 5100 rear/front 4runner" on google). Is he just highballing?

Question time:

Say if I get the rear 5100s which will give me a 3" lift, and put in the 9wraps which will give me a 5" lift, will there be a problem? Will the coils just keep the shocks extended?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Just an FYI. The consensus is that if you lift these trucks higher than 3", there's several things you have to start considering (panhard bar, cv angles, sway bar links, loss of alignment angles, etc. If I were you I would READ READ READ before you commit to a certain setup.

As for your question, the 5100 shocks don't provide suspension lift, that comes from the coil spring. You have to get the right shock for the length of the coil. You definitely need an adjustable panhard bar with a 5 " lift.

 

[TCMach]

Arc is selling a set of LC 9 wraps, and he is only an hour away!! 9wraps will give me about 5" of lift, according to
and will sag. So I figure with all the crap I keep in my trunk, I can get that 4" lift in the back?

Also, SnoRunnerUT is selling front and rear 5100s. There are some rumbling about them being a little expensive. Looks like I can get the rears for <$100 and the fronts for also <$100 (unless I am looking at the wrong things; just typed in "bilstein 5100 rear/front 4runner" on google). Is he just highballing?

Question time:

Say if I get the rear 5100s which will give me a 3" lift, and put in the 9wraps which will give me a 5" lift, will there be a problem? Will the coils just keep the shocks extended?

Yes 9 wraps give 4-5". Mine are only at 3.5" but then again my truck is heavy as hell. If you keep a decent amount of weight in the back (~150lbs) then they will sag to 4" most likely. Shocks are the limiting factor in your suspension and will limit your suspension travel. That being said there wont be an issue with that shock and spring combo. I run them and they are comfy and flex really well.

His price isnt that bad in my opinion, new front 5100s are $190 new from toytec, rears are the same.

Just an FYI. The consensus is that if you lift these trucks higher than 3", there's several things you have to start considering (panhard bar, cv angles, sway bar links, loss of alignment angles, etc. If I were you I would READ READ READ before you commit to a certain setup.

Alignments have been my issue at ~3.25" lift. I ran out of adjustment and had to go to light racings. But some people dont have those issues. IMHO I wouldn't worry about the panhard, cv angles, sway bar links. All that stuff is not critical, I wheel with plenty of guys without adjustable panhards, diff drops, and stock links and have no issues. However an extended rear brake line is definitely important :thumb3:

 

[168981]

I am starting to think 4-5" is a little excessive? I am thinking about rollovers and whatnot on the highway, or if I corner a turn too fast or too hard. Would wheel spacers alleviate that?

I don't know much about panhards cause it doesn't come up as much when I read other people's build, so you guys will have to help me on that one.

I've heard about cv's blowing out, and I don't want that. I know diff drops would help that out, so add that to my growing shopping list.

I haven't quite figured out what the sway bar link is. I only know that the sway bar keeps the car from swaying?

 

[Hepar]

Maybe I can savage the flares and mudflaps off of my '97? Would that fit on this gal?

You probably could, but I believe if you remove your current flares, you will have some holes.

I've heard about cv's blowing out, and I don't want that. I know diff drops would help that out, so add that to my growing shopping list.

Expect it as inevitable if you lift it no matter what you do. The rubber around the CV's is pretty old and doesn't like being moved around.