My "New" 4Runner Project

All right, I think my planning phase is done. This is what's going on my 4Runner:

Front Lift:
Toytec coilover kit with Bilstein 5100 shocks (TCKD4), which consist of:
Bilstein 5100 front shocks, adjustable from 1.5" to 3.5"
Eibach Coil springs
Front Diff Drop Kit (TACDR)
Front Shock replacement bushing/washer kit (142467)<--apparently I need this?
1.25" Wheel spacers (haven't found a set of lug centric ws yet)


Rear Lift:
Long Travel 5100s (9602E703)
Toytec Superflex Rear Coils (024RCB)
Extended Rear Brake Line (ss20)
Panhard Drop Kit (PDR1)
1.5" wheel Spacers (haven't found lug centric ones yet)

Wheels:
265/75/16 Cooper A/T3
5-Star Rims

I'll eventually get to all the luxury stuff, like Tundra brakes and lights and sliders (4xInnovations HREW Rock sliders)

All these parts should be rolling in slowly within the next 2-3 weeks, so I'll for sure start installing after Thanksgiving break, if not sooner(gotta leave my car at school :ohwell:)
 
The pieces are coming in! All I am missing now are my Long Travels. Am I missing anything here? The top plate for the front suspension? When I actually do get to the lift, I plan on knocking everything out at once, since I have to "rent time" at the base hobby shop. I'll have professional guidance, so it shouldn't take too long.

Can anyone see if I am missing anything? In the picture, there are:
-Extended rear brake lines
-Toytec bilstein coilover kit
-front diff drop kit
-replacement bushing/washer kit
-panhard drop kit
-toytec superflex

IMG_4441.jpg

Can I use the stock top plate/stock bolts to attach my front coilovers? When I bought the coilover kit, I'd assume it would have everything I need to perform a clean install using stock bolts/parts. Did I assume wrong?
 

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Update:

Got all the parts in. I spent like 15 hours trying to install the damn things. Only managed to install the rear shocks/coil, panhard drop, and the passenger side coilovers :roadkill:

I am not exaggerating when I said I don't have any experience in doing this kind of thing, and it definitely showed yesterday. Today was a little better, but I was hindered by very very difficult parts. I swear, the last person to lay their hands on the bolts of this car must have had the hands of God, cause they were f*****g tight! Had to rip up the passenger stock coilover just so I can get the top hat off. I stripped the top hat mount nut on the driver side, and that damn thing still hasn't moved :ybrick: But other than that, everything went smoothly. I think I might just take it into a shop somewhere and have them do my driver side coilovers.

My rear sway bar links are disconnected, because of the 3" lift from the Superflexes. I am thinking about making my own sway bar links, and making them disconnectable. Thoughts, comments, concerns?

Once I increase the lift on the front (passenger side coilovers are sitting at the very bottom setting to match stock height), I figure I would make disconnectable sway bar links as well.

Panhard drop kit was ezpz. Except for the washers. The drop kit that bolts onto the frame came with 4 washers, but I only had room for 3, so I threw the extra one down to the actual panhard connection. It's kinda weird, but I am going to look it over after I finish the front, just to be sure nothing came up.

I was expecting to finish lifting the front today, so I can go put on 285's on Tuesday. That didn't happen. I think I will just put 1.25" spacers (from all-pro) on the front and take off the fenders for the time being. Think Discount Tires will let me do that?

Things that still need to go on:
driver side coilover
diff drop kit
rear extended brake lines (I haven't found instructions on how to do it yet, and the stock brake lines aren't being stretched/stressed like I thought they would. I might not even bother installing the brake lines)

I will get pictures up later, once I actually have them:p But so far, my car has a 3" lift in the back and stock height in the front. MASSIVE rake, and I love the look. What do I do with the old parts now? It looks like Tokico shocks in the back, and the coils still look good. Like I said before, passenger side shocks are destroyed, but the coil is still good. Once I can remove the driver side, those should be good as well.

TL;DR I don't know how to car and I r dumb
 
Some pictures as she stands right now

Massive rake
IMG_4467.jpg


As I stated before, I've been having trouble with a nut on the strut of the top hat, as highlighted below. I've tried just about everything. No shop is willing to cut it or heat it up, so I will have to take it into the dealer on Thursday and let them work their magic. Any thoughts?

oil_filter_flap.jpg
 

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Update:

Got all the parts in. I spent like 15 hours trying to install the damn things. Only managed to install the rear shocks/coil, panhard drop, and the passenger side coilovers :roadkill:

I am not exaggerating when I said I don't have any experience in doing this kind of thing, and it definitely showed yesterday. Today was a little better, but I was hindered by very very difficult parts. I swear, the last person to lay their hands on the bolts of this car must have had the hands of God, cause they were f*****g tight! Had to rip up the passenger stock coilover just so I can get the top hat off. I stripped the top hat mount nut on the driver side, and that damn thing still hasn't moved :ybrick: But other than that, everything went smoothly. I think I might just take it into a shop somewhere and have them do my driver side coilovers.

My rear sway bar links are disconnected, because of the 3" lift from the Superflexes. I am thinking about making my own sway bar links, and making them disconnectable. Thoughts, comments, concerns?
Get 1" extended links and leave them connected. The rear end flexes plenty with the links attached. 3rd gen front swaybar end links will work, and I believe 2nd gen end links will as well (not sure if they are front or rear that are supposed to work...)
Once I increase the lift on the front (passenger side coilovers are sitting at the very bottom setting to match stock height), I figure I would make disconnectable sway bar links as well.
If you want to, go for it.
Panhard drop kit was ezpz. Except for the washers. The drop kit that bolts onto the frame came with 4 washers, but I only had room for 3, so I threw the extra one down to the actual panhard connection. It's kinda weird, but I am going to look it over after I finish the front, just to be sure nothing came up.

I was expecting to finish lifting the front today, so I can go put on 285's on Tuesday. That didn't happen. I think I will just put 1.25" spacers (from all-pro) on the front and take off the fenders for the time being. Think Discount Tires will let me do that?
Call and ask before you bother going in and having them say no. Spacers will make the tires rub more when cornering/hitting bumps, but will keep them off the UCAs. You may be able to convince them, but they can be strict about letting things leave that they feel are 'unsafe'. Doesn't make them bad guys, but it might ruin your plan.
Things that still need to go on:
driver side coilover
diff drop kit
rear extended brake lines (I haven't found instructions on how to do it yet, and the stock brake lines aren't being stretched/stressed like I thought they would. I might not even bother installing the brake lines)
I would do the rear extended brake line at some point, but it can probably wait for a bit. It will stretch when you go wheeling and that's a bad time for it to overstretch and let go. Or you can bend the tab down and get some slack in the stock line that way.
I will get pictures up later, once I actually have them:p But so far, my car has a 3" lift in the back and stock height in the front. MASSIVE rake, and I love the look. What do I do with the old parts now? It looks like Tokico shocks in the back, and the coils still look good. Like I said before, passenger side shocks are destroyed, but the coil is still good. Once I can remove the driver side, those should be good as well.
The old parts won't be worth much, but you could try to sell them on Craigslist. If no one bites, give them away or toss em in the dumpster.
TL;DR I don't know how to car and I r dumb

I'm a little late to the party but :welcome:

I put my comments in the quote in red.
 
My rear sway bar links are disconnected, because of the 3" lift from the Superflexes. I am thinking about making my own sway bar links, and making them disconnectable. Thoughts, comments, concerns?

Once I increase the lift on the front (passenger side coilovers are sitting at the very bottom setting to match stock height), I figure I would make disconnectable sway bar links as well.

Panhard drop kit was ezpz. Except for the washers. The drop kit that bolts onto the frame came with 4 washers, but I only had room for 3, so I threw the extra one down to the actual panhard connection. It's kinda weird, but I am going to look it over after I finish the front, just to be sure nothing came up.

X2 on Chris' post. Just get longer rear links and leave them attached. My rear is attached and I can stuff the crap out of my rear.

Front swaybar I would just pull it and leave it off. I didn't really notice a difference taking mine off on the street. And before somebody chimes in that its unsafe, I've had to make emergency maneuvers at highway speeds and the truck handled just fine.

You are welding the panhard drop on right? It is designed to be welded as well as bolted and will move about if you dont.
 
My rear sway bar links are disconnected, because of the 3" lift from the Superflexes. I am thinking about making my own sway bar links, and making them disconnectable. Thoughts, comments, concerns

This is coming from someone who makes a ton of sway bar links. You don't need disconnects in the rear, and everyone that asks my opinion gets told that. Get longer links and the rear will flex very well. Ditch the front sway bar as well. About 90% of your body roll is going to come from the rear. With the coilovers in the front, and the engine weight. This keeps the front very stable, even without the sway bar.
 
Finally done!!

Front measurement:
Before: 20" fender to hub
After: 22.5" fender to hub

Rear Measurement:
Before: 20" fender to hub
After: 23"+ fender to hub (could be 24", can't remember)

As she sits right now

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Things left to do:
Putting on Cooper ATP 285/70/16s today
1.25" AllPro wheel spacers in front, and 1.5" in back
Lose the running boards
Diff drop kit
extended rear brake lines

Future mods (probably in this order):
Energy suspension extended sway bar links in the rear
Remove front sway bar OR DIY disconnectable sway bar links
Change out lower and upper ball joints
4xI rocksliders (after I learn how to weld)
 

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Bae as she stands today:

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Next up:
Custom sliders
LBJs replacement
CV Boot replacement (leaky)
Diff drop (still need to install)
Rear Brake line extenders
Light bars along the top
Custom bumpers
 

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