Hey,
This is a two-parter - I'm hoping to get feedback on the work I'm having done on my new tax write off, err, truck, and what I notice as an observant driver and what that means about the truck's shape. I researched what vehicle I wanted for most of this summer, and probably don't need to explain - to the members of a 4runner forum, at least - the vast logic behind my eventual decision. I've lurked the hell out of the whole internet, but despite that there might be some redundant questions that were not perhaps fully answered, and I might re-ask.
THE PURCHASE
I just picked up a green '96 SR5 Automatic with 167,000ish miles on the clock for $3,000 on craigslist. He had it listed for $3,500 negotiable, claimed to have a friend who would buy it for $3, and was also quite surprised at what the inspection turned up. I took it Toyota to get an 'official' inspection, where they found the swaybar disconnected on the right side, front right tie rod in need of repair, rear axles leaking into the brake drums, and a timing belt of undetermined vintage.
heres the CL post: http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/1393341422.html
..attached are the original pics, JIK
No frame rust, good fluids all around, and a seemingly healthy tranny. Barely any exterior rust or chipped body paint. The interior is lived in, the exterior has some flaws, but the winter apocalpse does not hand out prizes for beauty. She hands out icy potholes, downed limbs, and deep, frozen ruts. In the dark.
Toyota quoted me about $1,500. With a cunning slight of pen, they tallied up the hours per job, but not the parts cost, and put the 'cost per job' in 'cost per parts' box. Well, the hours add up to about 12 or 13, so at $100/hr that approaches $1,500 in a heartbeat. I explained to my mechanic what Toyota had found, and he said it'd probably be between 5 - $600 to do the tie rod, sway bar, and rear axle / brakes. Should I do the belts, or wait? Anything else basic worth doing?
..But why waste a perfectly good couple days with the truck suspended 8 feet in the air, and not actually upgrade?
THE M.O
My primary vehicle is a 2003 RSX, which otherwise kills in the snow with the General Altimax winter tires. I am currently working for a company that's about 1.5 hours down state in Columbia County, which entails the NYS Thruway, Taconic Parkway, and rural roads and dirt trails. In that order, actually - it's like a continuing degradation of asphalt and decreasing maintenance. I love - love - the Acura, but know that one winter of 3 or 4 commutes a week would destroy the suspension, bang up the chassis, chip the paint, and practically dip the car in a salt bath. The 4runner, on the other hand, would thank me for it.
The previous owner put some nice heavy duty PIAA's in, with two lights mounted on the brushguard, along with Bosch plugs and a newish battery. I'm not interested in rock crawling, but instead poise, stability, debris clearance, and unpaved wintery inclines.
THE UPGRADES
I found a write up here about a guy who added Bilstien shocks, slightly cut springs, ceramic TRD brakes, and an Addco sway bar, and claims really amazing results. It ended up dropping about an inch. This seems right at my wavelength. Does anybody know of other similar configurations or particular solutions that me be even more of a good thing? Do both front/back sway bays need to be changed to really get the full effect? Are there other shock/spring combos that might be cheaper? I'm after control and poise - to be able turn as flat as possible, and go into evasive maneuvers without having a heart attack. It wouldn't be bad if the truck soaked up most bumps while still transmitting road information, and stayed firmly despite road consistency.
I don't recall the tires - I think they are Discoveries - but the back two are basically bald. Can I mix and match, and put a winter pair in the back, and an all season pair in the front? What would be a good recommendation given my trek?
THE STATUS QUO
In terms of how it rides and things I'm noticing, there's definitely a little jolt in 1st that seems to me like rear wheel torque - a new concept for a FWD'er. The car doesn't stutter or hesitate to shift, you just feel a nudge of your back/waist against the seat. The ride is definitely harsh and the wheel misalignment upsets the truck's footing over bumps or heavily pockmarked asphalt. The previous owner said the shocks could be replaced, which is probably an understatement. With the sway bar disconnected, turning seems a more gravitationally involved than normal, but some folks on the forum swear that I doesn't make a significant difference. Granted, these same folks also park on boulders in the middle of class 5 rapids, but who knows, my last car can park inside this one. Should I notice a difference in handling when the sway bar is reconnected, or do I need to do the shock and springs also to take it up a notch?
It definitely leans into turns, and theres a bit of flex in the chassis. Bumps reveal what seem like interior rattles. No scary sounds emanating from below other than the occasional sway bar doink.
The shifter doesn't have light-up letters, and I don't quite know the location of D intuitively yet.. how does one fix that?
That's more than enough for now. Pictures to follow. I actually went to the car wash - at 9pm - before dropping it off in the mechanic's lot.
This is a two-parter - I'm hoping to get feedback on the work I'm having done on my new tax write off, err, truck, and what I notice as an observant driver and what that means about the truck's shape. I researched what vehicle I wanted for most of this summer, and probably don't need to explain - to the members of a 4runner forum, at least - the vast logic behind my eventual decision. I've lurked the hell out of the whole internet, but despite that there might be some redundant questions that were not perhaps fully answered, and I might re-ask.
THE PURCHASE
I just picked up a green '96 SR5 Automatic with 167,000ish miles on the clock for $3,000 on craigslist. He had it listed for $3,500 negotiable, claimed to have a friend who would buy it for $3, and was also quite surprised at what the inspection turned up. I took it Toyota to get an 'official' inspection, where they found the swaybar disconnected on the right side, front right tie rod in need of repair, rear axles leaking into the brake drums, and a timing belt of undetermined vintage.
heres the CL post: http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/1393341422.html
..attached are the original pics, JIK
No frame rust, good fluids all around, and a seemingly healthy tranny. Barely any exterior rust or chipped body paint. The interior is lived in, the exterior has some flaws, but the winter apocalpse does not hand out prizes for beauty. She hands out icy potholes, downed limbs, and deep, frozen ruts. In the dark.
Toyota quoted me about $1,500. With a cunning slight of pen, they tallied up the hours per job, but not the parts cost, and put the 'cost per job' in 'cost per parts' box. Well, the hours add up to about 12 or 13, so at $100/hr that approaches $1,500 in a heartbeat. I explained to my mechanic what Toyota had found, and he said it'd probably be between 5 - $600 to do the tie rod, sway bar, and rear axle / brakes. Should I do the belts, or wait? Anything else basic worth doing?
..But why waste a perfectly good couple days with the truck suspended 8 feet in the air, and not actually upgrade?
THE M.O
My primary vehicle is a 2003 RSX, which otherwise kills in the snow with the General Altimax winter tires. I am currently working for a company that's about 1.5 hours down state in Columbia County, which entails the NYS Thruway, Taconic Parkway, and rural roads and dirt trails. In that order, actually - it's like a continuing degradation of asphalt and decreasing maintenance. I love - love - the Acura, but know that one winter of 3 or 4 commutes a week would destroy the suspension, bang up the chassis, chip the paint, and practically dip the car in a salt bath. The 4runner, on the other hand, would thank me for it.
The previous owner put some nice heavy duty PIAA's in, with two lights mounted on the brushguard, along with Bosch plugs and a newish battery. I'm not interested in rock crawling, but instead poise, stability, debris clearance, and unpaved wintery inclines.
THE UPGRADES
I found a write up here about a guy who added Bilstien shocks, slightly cut springs, ceramic TRD brakes, and an Addco sway bar, and claims really amazing results. It ended up dropping about an inch. This seems right at my wavelength. Does anybody know of other similar configurations or particular solutions that me be even more of a good thing? Do both front/back sway bays need to be changed to really get the full effect? Are there other shock/spring combos that might be cheaper? I'm after control and poise - to be able turn as flat as possible, and go into evasive maneuvers without having a heart attack. It wouldn't be bad if the truck soaked up most bumps while still transmitting road information, and stayed firmly despite road consistency.
I don't recall the tires - I think they are Discoveries - but the back two are basically bald. Can I mix and match, and put a winter pair in the back, and an all season pair in the front? What would be a good recommendation given my trek?
THE STATUS QUO
In terms of how it rides and things I'm noticing, there's definitely a little jolt in 1st that seems to me like rear wheel torque - a new concept for a FWD'er. The car doesn't stutter or hesitate to shift, you just feel a nudge of your back/waist against the seat. The ride is definitely harsh and the wheel misalignment upsets the truck's footing over bumps or heavily pockmarked asphalt. The previous owner said the shocks could be replaced, which is probably an understatement. With the sway bar disconnected, turning seems a more gravitationally involved than normal, but some folks on the forum swear that I doesn't make a significant difference. Granted, these same folks also park on boulders in the middle of class 5 rapids, but who knows, my last car can park inside this one. Should I notice a difference in handling when the sway bar is reconnected, or do I need to do the shock and springs also to take it up a notch?
It definitely leans into turns, and theres a bit of flex in the chassis. Bumps reveal what seem like interior rattles. No scary sounds emanating from below other than the occasional sway bar doink.
The shifter doesn't have light-up letters, and I don't quite know the location of D intuitively yet.. how does one fix that?
That's more than enough for now. Pictures to follow. I actually went to the car wash - at 9pm - before dropping it off in the mechanic's lot.
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