My new runner

Technical term for that part is "that fecking egr thingy". Dunno how much they cost, but it can't be much. Google the part number.

If you're feeling particularly cheap, I bet the hardware store has an NPT nipple just about the right size to thread into that hole you left in it.
 
Found it, not too expensive. But I forgot about my other problem. One I got the belt off I ended up rotating the crank and now am unsure of how to make sure it's all lined up again. Do I need to put the pulley back on or can I tell that it's at 0 by some other mark?
 
Yeah there is a notch on the rod that the pulley fits over, but it's at like a 90 degree angle to the notch in the pulley itself that I used to line up with the markings on the secondary timing cover
 
How weird. The key on the 22RE crank lines up with the timing mark on the pulley. I guess in your case, just make a note where the key sits in relation to the timing mark, then rotate the motor until the distributor rotor points at #1 and make sure the key on the crank is in the right general location.
 
So new belt on, and did a few rotations, and the cam and crank all line up but the marks on the belt shift. I can't see how I'm off a tooth if the cam and crank all line up each time. Any input?
 
When I was putting the chain back on my 3RZ, I remember the bright link would drift as I rotated the engine. It seemed weird to me too, but guys who know more than I told me it's normal. If you're sure you put the belt on in the right spot with the cam and crank lined up, I wouldn't worry about it. It's a noninterference engine, so the worst that'll happen is you'll have to tear it down and start over. :D
 
Yeah I'm sure then cam and crank were lined up and it was tightened right. And everything lines up after I turn it so I've got to be good. Torqued it down with this little guy I made.
aba3a2ut.jpg
 
So, have some interesting window issues.

The previous owner tapped into the wires on the driver side and passenger side, and said to roll then down to jump the wires together.... Which worked on the pass side but not the driver.

I want to make them all work as normal, but the problem is the factory harness looks fine, all the wires are intact, but there is a harness off the driver side motor which has been cut into and re wired. But I don't see how it by passes the original harness to the controls since they are un touched?

Anyway. Also, should I jus start a build thread titled appropriately, or does this work?
 
Had some problems, kept dying at idle. Troubleshooting led me to the alternator. Bought a new one, but tightened the belt on the old one first, boom. Took the new one back. Saved $150.

Now just to put the bumper back on, some new belts, and get it inspected.
 
Brownfaux said:
Had some problems, kept dying at idle. Troubleshooting led me to the alternator. Bought a new one, but tightened the belt on the old one first, boom. Took the new one back. Saved $150.

Now just to put the bumper back on, some new belts, and get it inspected, AND TAKE HER TO MOAB!!!.
Click to expand...

Fixed it for you BF.

:ranger:
 
For real huh. No I'm going to cruise around in it for a week or two and then get going on my SAS. I've already got my front axle from an 84, going to go with the trail gear kit. Pull the oil pan while I'm at it and do the front and rear main seals also.

Moab next year......
 
Half way into the axle seal. Making my own SST for pressing out the bearings. I will be happy to offer bearing pressing service to forum members for a 6 pack of beer.
 
Decided to skip the bearings. I didn't want to eat up time making the SST while the truck is torn apart. I'm going to make a nice one then open it back up. With air tools the axle seal only took like 20 minutes total working time.

Rear brakes done too. Looking into the temperature sensor and whether or not coolant is flowing. I know I put it all back together right but I think the new thermostat might be bad. I don't think coolant is flowing.
 
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