My Tundra brake upgrade.

[Guyver192]

I know this has been done a few times with plenty of write ups and parts sourcing but I figured I would hopefully change it up for those looking to get this done on the cheap and not having access to all the tools a shop / friends family may have.so here goes.

I put longer studs front the rear with a 1/4 spacer so I did not have to replace my wheels so soon. Works like a charm. I was mentioned in a another Tundra brakes post. Credit goes to that person. Next with installing the studs the washers are one size above the shoulder for the rear studs and used 2 of them to avoid to correct washer becoming stuck when installing. I also used 3 correct size washers to help Center the stud! Enjoy the rest of the pictures.

 

[Guyver192]

Max 8 per message so here is more. With parts for the hard lines from toyota all 4. They are marked what side that are for also.

 

[Guyver192]

The rest. And the stop tech lines from rock auto. The calipers are from Amazon and they go up and down in price 130.00 no core most weeks. The rotor and pads set 160.00, brake fluid 7.99 by one get one half off at advanced auto right now and car quest.

 

[Chim]

Looks like the Callahan Kit (Powerstop) from Amazon? I used that too but one of my calipers had a pinhole in the body and leaked fluid Finish on them was nice though and I still really like the rotors

 

[Guyver192]

Yrah it looks like the same but I bought them individually. Power stop pads and rotors and power stop calipers. But they may just put them together and call it a kit. No leaks so far.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I really want to know about using the rear studs on the front. I read a thread a while back that said it could be done, but more recently I have read threads saying that it can't or shouldn't. The newer thread said that the spline part of the stud was different and would not work? Does it work properly? Is it thinner such that it could pull out prematurely? Do you see anything fitment or functional problems with the rear studs used in the front?

 

[Guyver192]

Well the rear studs are 14.20 mm and the front stock are 14.17 mm, those measurements are at the serrated part near the top of the thread. There are a bit harder to install but by no means impossible or any fear of backing out. In my opinion they would have a harder time backing out. I installed one side and drove and checked after 100 miles. No Issues. Then I went to install the rest. the best one to get are the Dorman's or OEM. Hella strong and I have had some cheaper ones break while installing them.

 

[Guyver192]

Wheels on and 120 miles driven. The last Pic is the 1/4 spacer I forgot to take post earlier. Also BIG NOTE! not only are my 4runner wheel hub centric the lug nuts help center the wheels also. All wheel torqued to 83 ftlbs and have held up just fine!

 

[I_bRAD]

I'd be concerned that you have significantly reduced the bearing area on the hub by putting that spacer in while at the same time increasing the load on it.

 

[DK327]

Good job! I have the same brake setup and it's been great so far. Great idea to change the wheel studs too... Here is an unrelated question; on one of the pics I see you have the Monroe shocks, is that the strut assembly or just the shocks? Im asking because I'm doing my UBJ/LBJ ITR/OTR and just bought (but not put on yet) the Monroe front strut assembly and rear shocks (moog rear coils) and was wondering how you like the ride... Thx!

 

[YFZsandrider]

Why did you replace the hard lines?

 

[Guyver192]

Why did you replace the hard lines?

Who ever worked on the brakes for what ever reason on the driver side over torqued the flare fitting had a hard time removing it from the flexible line. The passenger side both of the nut face was damaged due to vise grip or pliers use. I am ocd when it come to my stuff. 12 dollars a line was not to bad since I was taking them mostly off I decided just to replace it all.

 

[Guyver192]

Good job! I have the same brake setup and it's been great so far. Great idea to change the wheel studs too... Here is an unrelated question; on one of the pics I see you have the Monroe shocks, is that the strut assembly or just the shocks? Im asking because I'm doing my UBJ/LBJ ITR/OTR and just bought (but not put on yet) the Monroe front strut assembly and rear shocks (moog rear coils) and was wondering how you like the ride... Thx!

The Monroe ride a bit softer than I would like but it's world's better than the stock worn out ones that it replaced

 

[Guyver192]

I'd be concerned that you have significantly reduced the bearing area on the hub by putting that spacer in while at the same time increasing the load on it.

The small spacer should not significantly increase bearing load no different than different offset wheels. I would not have gone any wider than the 1/4 inch. More damage would be done with wheel adapters.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

The small spacer should not significantly increase bearing load no different than different offset wheels. I would not have gone any wider than the 1/4 inch. More damage would be done with wheel adapters.

I agree with you on this.

Can you help me with some part numbers or links? I'd like to know what you used for the studs - OEM (part number 9094202052?) or the Dorman? How about the stainless steel lines? How easy was that install?

 

[Guyver192]

As far as links Rockauto for the stoptech stainless steel braid lines were the best price including shipping. If you have used them before and they may send you 5% off codes helps out.
Install for me is easy enough because I work on cars for a living. But anyone who has some aptitude for auto repair should be able to do this in a few hours. Bleeding the brakes are easy if you dont have problem. Biggest tip I can give is gravity bleed them first them pedal bleed. Speed bleeder screws should work well also.