Mytoy4 Build Thread

[afg10000]

If you decide to to the POR, let me know if you have any questions. I've already done it once. It's a very specific 3-step process. That stuff is a weird substance. Learned some lessons so I get to do it again here in a few weeks. The only weak spot is you can't do the weld pads before installation. I've got a can of Duplicolor Undercoating spray for that. Feels strange posting on this side of the tracks -

 

[Mytoy4]

If you decide to to the POR, let me know if you have any questions. I've already done it once. It's a very specific 3-step process. That stuff is a weird substance. Learned some lessons so I get to do it again here in a few weeks. The only weak spot is you can't do the weld pads before installation. I've got a can of Duplicolor Undercoating spray for that. Feels strange posting on this side of the tracks -

Yeah, I'll for sure have to get some help!

 

[eddiebx]

No, I didn't put anything on them before I did it. Dumb on my part. I took recommendations on how to do it and didn't really factor in NE living.
I do like the more gritty look. I don't want something smooth and shiny really.
Also I want black. The stuff I used before was called black but in fact it dried a more charcoal grey. It was nice because it matched my wheels but I really like the black and white contrast.
Andy ( [MENTION=88079]afg10000[/MENTION] ) is a local member here, and also lives here in Omaha. He recommended using Por15 and then coating with something of my choice. POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks

If powder coating is going to be expensive and chip - and doesn't touch up easily then it'll drive me crazy. I need something that is going to be strong yet I can touch it up easily myself.

Oh yeah, POR is good stuff! I've read lots of great reviews about it from everyone that's used it.

 

[aha2988]

I wouldn't use anything fancy to coat the sliders, go with rustoleum paint they have an industrial strength line that is pretty tough but not to expensive. I'd use a coat of that for primer you can get it in flat, semi gloss, and gloss black. You can use the rustoleum textured paint if you want a little grip to them for the final coat or a rattle can spray on bed liner. As long as you paint them with a spray can you can always touch up any chips, scratches, or pitting that may come your way down the road.

 

[wadle5]

Yeah let me know about POR in talking with some buddies they said the problem could occur of it actually sealing in and retaining moisture on the frame and could thus cause more damage then protection?

 

[Mytoy4]

Yeah let me know about POR in talking with some buddies they said the problem could occur of it actually sealing in and retaining moisture on the frame and could thus cause more damage then protection?

Hey Andy ( [MENTION=88079]afg10000[/MENTION] ) what are your thoughts on this?

 

[afg10000]

I wouldn't use anything fancy to coat the sliders, go with rustoleum paint they have an industrial strength line that is pretty tough but not to expensive. I'd use a coat of that for primer you can get it in flat, semi gloss, and gloss black. You can use the rustoleum textured paint if you want a little grip to them for the final coat or a rattle can spray on bed liner. As long as you paint them with a spray can you can always touch up any chips, scratches, or pitting that may come your way down the road.

I agree with not spending money on fancy options (powder coat, Line-x, etc). It's armor, it's gonna get beat up and need to be touched up. The Rustoleum will not keep these from rusting here. These crazy people love salt. They'll dump 20 tons of it on the roads for a 2" snow. If I lived somewhere where salt was not a concern, I'd go with the Rustoleum HI-temp outdoor grill paint.
I've never seen anyone have issues with the POR "sealing in moisture". If you do the prep correctly and apply it thoroughly, I don't see how it's possible. It is a sealer. Directions stress to make sure the surface is Bone Dry after the Metal Prep & Ready (step 2). They say use a hair dryer if necessary. If done correctly, it will bond to the metal and seal the surface from moisture and more importantly, Oxygen. That's what it's for. It's made to paint right over rust. It will seal the rusted surface, preventing Oxygen from furthering the oxidation process.
That's why I went this route. It's cheaper than Powder and Line-x, but much more protective than straight rattle can. Down the road if you find any spots that have chipped or didn't get covered completely, even if there's rust, you can simply do the POR process on those specific areas and re-apply top coat.
One of these days I'm gonna POR the frame and under body. Lot of work but could give the frame a longer life. There's a lot of threads with folks doing this-

 

[Mytoy4]

I agree with not spending money on fancy options (powder coat, Line-x, etc). It's armor, it's gonna get beat up and need to be touched up. The Rustoleum will not keep these from rusting here. These crazy people love salt. They'll dump 20 tons of it on the roads for a 2" snow. If I lived somewhere where salt was not a concern, I'd go with the Rustoleum HI-temp outdoor grill paint.
I've never seen anyone have issues with the POR "sealing in moisture". If you do the prep correctly and apply it thoroughly, I don't see how it's possible. It is a sealer. Directions stress to make sure the surface is Bone Dry after the Metal Prep & Ready (step 2). They say use a hair dryer if necessary. If done correctly, it will bond to the metal and seal the surface from moisture and more importantly, Oxygen. That's what it's for. It's made to paint right over rust. It will seal the rusted surface, preventing Oxygen from furthering the oxidation process.
That's why I went this route. It's cheaper than Powder and Line-x, but much more protective than straight rattle can. Down the road if you find any spots that have chipped or didn't get covered completely, even if there's rust, you can simply do the POR process on those specific areas and re-apply top coat.
One of these days I'm gonna POR the frame and under body. Lot of work but could give the frame a longer life. There's a lot of threads with folks doing this-

Thanks, Andy! I'm planning to start the process the weekend after Memorial Day, so I'll reach out to you.
I think too... I'm going to come and see you next week as well

 

[ThePMFG]

i've got the same lift that you have, but don't have mine turned down any, it's cranked all the way up on the front. and i don't have a body lift installed. i just ordered some 285/65R18 bfg at's and my rims are 18x9 with a +0 offset... you think i'll have much rubbing issues? i'm sure i'll have to push the front fender lining up some, but other than that? anyone can feel free to let me know about this, i didn't mean to jack your build thread or anything, i just noticed we both have the same lift and are running 18's and i'm about to install 285's... which you've already done. thanks for any advice or info! your rig is looking awesome by the way! gotta love the white t4r's!!

 

[Mytoy4]

i've got the same lift that you have, but don't have mine turned down any, it's cranked all the way up on the front. and i don't have a body lift installed. i just ordered some 285/65R18 bfg at's and my rims are 18x9 with a +0 offset... you think i'll have much rubbing issues? i'm sure i'll have to push the front fender lining up some, but other than that? anyone can feel free to let me know about this, i didn't mean to jack your build thread or anything, i just noticed we both have the same lift and are running 18's and i'm about to install 285's... which you've already done. thanks for any advice or info! your rig is looking awesome by the way! gotta love the white t4r's!!

Thank you!
Yes, I did have quite a bit of rubbing. I had to move the fender liner forward some and then I ended up cutting some of the mud flaps as well. I think some just remove the mud flaps but I like the look of them on there.

 

[ThePMFG]

Thank you!
Yes, I did have quite a bit of rubbing. I had to move the fender liner forward some and then I ended up cutting some of the mud flaps as well. I think some just remove the mud flaps but I like the look of them on there.

cool, thanks. yea i have already removed the front mud flaps and have considered removing the rear ones... just haven't done it yet. do you have much rubbing after you moved the fender liner forward and modded your mud flaps?

 

[Mytoy4]

cool, thanks. yea i have already removed the front mud flaps and have considered removing the rear ones... just haven't done it yet. do you have much rubbing after you moved the fender liner forward and modded your mud flaps?

None at all. Now keep in mind that's just with street driving and some driving on very mild off road. I haven't had the opportunity to truly take it off road yet to flex.

 

[afg10000]

Thanks, Andy! I'm planning to start the process the weekend after Memorial Day, so I'll reach out to you.
I think too... I'm going to come and see you next week as well

Yeah, stop on by. I can give ya detailed advice on the prep and paint. I bet your old man can get the prep stuff and paint for cheaper through his work. One thing I might recommend since you're getting the 4xInnovations sliders, fit them to the truck, tack weld them and then finish weld off the truck. Do the POR after they're all together and off the vehicle. That way you can be very thorough and not be painting upside down. If you get that stuff on your skin it stays there for some time. Check this link http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/no read directions.pdf.
Stop on by next week. I'll be there Tues. through Sat.

 

[JWaldz]

5k extra... pshh, hello sas!!

Love your 4Runner, looking forward to the new goodies

 

[Mytoy4]

5k extra... pshh, hello sas!!

Love your 4Runner, looking forward to the new goodies

Thanks
Me too! I'll have the windshield replaced, hail damage fixed, with pretty much a complete paint job, a new sport hood, a fixed bumper, new rock sliders, new UCA's ...
I'm trying to figure out what else I want to do with some of the extra money.

 

[Whitebeauty]

Hmmm....lights???

 

[Mytoy4]

Hmmm....lights???

Actually what I'd love are bigger tires. Maybe a small roof rack. LEDs on the inside?
Just not too sure yet.

 

[Whitebeauty]

Let me know...

 

[aha2988]

Actually what I'd love are bigger tires. Maybe a small roof rack. LEDs on the inside?
Just not too sure yet.

you can purchase the interior LED's individually on amazon for less than 30 bucks shipped. I can PM you links to the one's PD and I have they're pretty awesome.

I'm sure you've seen the new racks offered by the member on here in florida they have turned out really nice and are very affordable practically same design as a gobi stealth or perkins rack.

The bigger tires think you'll have to consider the fact that your spare (if you purchase a matching full size spare to match the bigger tires) will no longer fit under the truck which is where a rear bumper with a tire carrier comes into play. Ofcourse you can always through the spare up on a new steel rack. (lol I carry mine on the factory rack and it's just barely to heavy haha) With the three inch lift you can likely step into 33x12.50's just have to figure what that equates to in metric sizes for your rim size. and you'll probably have to do some more trimming here and there to sort out some rubbing in the front. You could also do a body lift to help reduce tire clearance issues.

you can also add a rear locker with that budget and definitely improve the off-road capability. It all depends on what you want really lol

 

[Mytoy4]

you can purchase the interior LED's individually on amazon for less than 30 bucks shipped. I can PM you links to the one's PD and I have they're pretty awesome.

I'm sure you've seen the new racks offered by the member on here in florida they have turned out really nice and are very affordable practically same design as a gobi stealth or perkins rack.

The bigger tires think you'll have to consider the fact that your spare (if you purchase a matching full size spare to match the bigger tires) will no longer fit under the truck which is where a rear bumper with a tire carrier comes into play. Ofcourse you can always through the spare up on a new steel rack. (lol I carry mine on the factory rack and it's just barely to heavy haha) With the three inch lift you can likely step into 33x12.50's just have to figure what that equates to in metric sizes for your rim size. and you'll probably have to do some more trimming here and there to sort out some rubbing in the front. You could also do a body lift to help reduce tire clearance issues.

you can also add a rear locker with that budget and definitely improve the off-road capability. It all depends on what you want really lol

Ah! Right, I forgot about some of those stipulations. I don't think I want a rear tire rack (yet), so maybe I hold off on new tires for now. I'll need them eventually, right!
I gotta freaking get this thing off road first!! Damn, Terri! :doh:

I would however be interested in the LED lighting, Austin. Could you send me something? I want to have my gauges done, but I HATE shipping stuff!
I'm trying to get my wheels ready for shipping now and it's a total PITA!

I totally forgot about a rear locker. That is something I'd want to add. I think I'll start researching that.
Also, the tire racks I like, but I like smaller more subtle ones. Just recently I saw one on here, but I for the life of me can't remember who had it. Loved it!