brillo_76
Elite Member
Let me take a photo of that to show you.... As my plastic is still missing in my cargo area... I can at least do that.
Nantucket Rust Bucket
- Thread starter DreadPirateJon
- Start date
Let me take a photo of that to show you.... As my plastic is still missing in my cargo area... I can at least do that.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I actually have those inner panels under FF. They haven't changed any in 2 years. Here are the photos. The bolts are nutted to the flare then nut in the inner body panels. You can see the front one is s pita to get to but you can get in there with a hand wrench and snug it up
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Attachments
DreadPirateJon
New member
How did you figure out where to drill?
brillo_76
Elite Member
With the bolts and clips off I marked were I wanted it with a sharpie few alignment dots. Then I put silicone on the tabs were my bolts were going to be. Then aligned and press were the bolts will be. Pull directly off and drill. I wish I had the picture of the bolts on the flare so you know which tabs I used. As I wanted close to the back and front.
Of course you could silicone serveral and see which one works best for you.
I use stainless just in case you need to paint your rig or something you can pull the nuts and the flares come right off. :
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Of course you could silicone serveral and see which one works best for you.
I use stainless just in case you need to paint your rig or something you can pull the nuts and the flares come right off. :
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Boognish_Forever
Member
I agree as even with the stock size tires, the universal mudflaps (mostly because they’re screwed in on the inside wheel well) are close to the tires when turning. I recommend getting long flexible mudflaps and trimming them later on if they rub to much. I looked at my buddies Tacoma and his factory stock mudflaps are close to the ground, but very flexible rubber. In the picture is the current size of my mudflap and it’s not doing a good enough job.
DreadPirateJon
New member
I have been getting some misfire codes, P0300, P0301, P0302, and P0303.
Since this is saying the front three cylinders are misfiring I am thinking that the issue is actually in the front knock sensor and not an issue with fuel or spark.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Since this is saying the front three cylinders are misfiring I am thinking that the issue is actually in the front knock sensor and not an issue with fuel or spark.
Anyone have any other ideas?
brillo_76
Elite Member
How's the plug and wires checking out? I have a thred for plugs wires and coils and specs in the forum here.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
MoarRunner
New member
Wow, those are some impressive fabrication skills. Bumper looks great! Do you have anymore pics of the work on the rockers? I'm looking at a 2000 SR5 right now, and it has running boards. I'm pretty sure the rockers behind it
are gone so I'm trying to gauge what I can expect when I take them off. Since I have very little fabrication skills, would this be something that a shop could to or would that just be too much $$$?
are gone so I'm trying to gauge what I can expect when I take them off. Since I have very little fabrication skills, would this be something that a shop could to or would that just be too much $$$?
DreadPirateJon
New member
The wires are the blue NGKs, but a previous owner installed them and I just reused when I rebuilt the engine. From my understanding of the cylinder numbering the wires would only affect cylinder 2 and 1 and 3 have the coils right on top of the plugs.
If I just had 1 and 2 misfiring I would suspect the first coil. But I also have number 3 misfiring. Maybe I should take off the wires, coils and inspect connections. But my thought process is that if there is only one point of failure, the only thing the cylinders have in common is being on the front of the engine.
Not quite sure how the knock sensors delegate work (I only work on modern OBD systems) but this seems a logical division to me.
I also put a new knock sensor harness (with a toyota one) on in the rebuild as i may have allegedly stepped on the original one breaking a connector... allegedly.
DreadPirateJon
New member
I would be hesitant to take on this level of fabrication with out much experience. Besides the cutting part the welding can be a bit tricky too as you will be laying at all angles and need to know how to direct heat into the thicker square tube preventing the body's sheet metal from blowing through.
As [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] i think would agree, if you are seeing issues in the rockers there may be issue with the frame as well. Make sure to look around the rear LCA brackets, especially where they are welded to the frame. Try to shove a screwdriver through the frame underneath the bracket (if the owner isnt looking)
There is a company that makes replacement rockers. 1996-2001Toyota 4 Runner Body Panels But I know nothing other than they exist. I would imagine you would need two for each side as the in side rocker is probably swiss cheese as well. Cant help guess pricing on a shop fixing it. I personally went into this project knowing it was going to be a pain, but wanting it as a way to improve my fabrication skills and hopefully start getting back into designing parts.
For reference, I spent 2k on mine 2. It was then in pieces in my garage for probably 18 months just making it road worthy again. All in I probably have approaching 15k into the truck. And just found more rust holes this weekend in the body.
I do really enjoy the truck driving it more than my other cars which some would say are probably much more entertaining to drive, but that could just be stockholm syndrome at this point.
So after writing all that my recommendation would be to consider what you really want out of it before jumping into the rust pit.
DreadPirateJon
New member
Got a chance to go out with some jeeps this last weekend. And the only photo I got was this mall crawler pose.
And this one showing the aftermath of the one time I got stuck.
But I yanked the XJ out twice and the ZJ out once, so I think the toy yoda still came out ahead.
And this one showing the aftermath of the one time I got stuck.
But I yanked the XJ out twice and the ZJ out once, so I think the toy yoda still came out ahead.
DreadPirateJon
New member
Im thinking I may want about an inch more lift for clearing the rear wheels to the body. Does anyone have an opinions of adding a 1 inch spacer or body lift, verse specing out a new suspension system? I think my current setup rides really nice and has performed very well offroad, besides for the rear rubbing under flex.
I currently have 99talls with bilstein 5100s preloaded up a notch and ome 906s in the rear.
I currently have 99talls with bilstein 5100s preloaded up a notch and ome 906s in the rear.
Malcolm99
Member
I'm running 4R 5100's 99 original front coils on the 3rd notch, 4Runner 5100's 4 year old 906 OME with 1.5" daystar spacers, removed cone coil bumps, and RB 1" body lift, rides perfect. 24" front 24.25" back hub to limited fender no extra weight, I like the leveled look. At first it was rough but after setting all the static bushings and changing any that where worn out, especially front LCA bushings, PKC, SS tapered diff drop, SS rear sway bar relocation, and SS rear poly body mounts, and many more suspension related components it is better than new. I think these trucks ride better with no more than 1/2" rake like they came originally.
DreadPirateJon
New member
So you have about what I was thinking of doing. I have the PKC and SS diff drop both sitting on a shelf right now waiting to be put on. Im just not sold on a body lift as I really dont want have to get into fighting the rust on the body mounts.
If im remembering the front bilstein's correctly, it seemed like it was just preloading the springs to make them stiffer to give the increased ride height, so I was worried about the front becoming way to stiff if i moved up the spring perch.
Malcolm99
Member
I started out on the 4th perch and lowered it to the third perch, to much CV angle and I was getting bad rebound on droop because of preload, it didn't make it noticeably stiffer, still didn't feel right on the 3rd perch, after the alignment it was worse since I found I had seized LCA bushings that they twisted causing unwanted tension in the static bushing, replaced bushings rides perfect now, took it on the snowmobile trails the other day going over some big whoops and bumps, ride is pretty plush and smooth, those 99' OEM coils are really nice even being 20 years old(no rust on my coils) way better ride than the Tundra set up on my other 4R, The BL isn't that bad, just spray everything down loosen them all and lift one side of the truck at a time to swap them out, I'm not a fan of BL's but it sure has made servicing the vehicle easier, who knew that extra inch would make life that much easier when wrenching on a 3rd gen, but not needed for sure.
Last edited:
DreadPirateJon
New member
Malcom, Thanks for the info. Gives me a good place to start planning out my next suspension move.
Also, about your GSX. I had a roommate in college who was probably the biggest GSX resource in North Carolina. I know it is a pretty small community, and was wondering if you knew of a guy named Kyle down in NC.
Also, about your GSX. I had a roommate in college who was probably the biggest GSX resource in North Carolina. I know it is a pretty small community, and was wondering if you knew of a guy named Kyle down in NC.
Malcolm99
Member
It's nIce to see what worked for others making these decisions, hard to find identical setups and opinions sometimes though.
I live north of the boarder so I was/am on Club DSM Canada since 2000 so most DSMer's on that site where from Canada, Canada never got the Mitsubishi GSX 1989-1994 1st gen, so imported mine from Dallas Texas. There is a few Kyles in the community, was huge until all the young guys modified there DSM into and undrivable monsters or just cranked up the boost till it popped. These cars are still breakin records with the 4G63T stock block just look up Aaron Gregory 1200WHP 80psi, love these cars
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cqVN206_m-c
I live north of the boarder so I was/am on Club DSM Canada since 2000 so most DSMer's on that site where from Canada, Canada never got the Mitsubishi GSX 1989-1994 1st gen, so imported mine from Dallas Texas. There is a few Kyles in the community, was huge until all the young guys modified there DSM into and undrivable monsters or just cranked up the boost till it popped. These cars are still breakin records with the 4G63T stock block just look up Aaron Gregory 1200WHP 80psi, love these cars
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cqVN206_m-c
Last edited:
DreadPirateJon
New member
Mitsu's are something special. I rocked an EvoX for a while that I had just put a mild tune on that was damn near perfect (except for the one thing I do which is miles of highway everyday) Even made a FD rx7 guy reconsider after taking it for a drive. I currently help a buddy build a 3000gt and the bug to overbuild is real. He keeps asking if he should change out some parts to get to 700hp instead of the 450ish its currently at. Keep telling him that for what he is doing a running 450 is better than a non running 700.
for my 4r I ordered some 1.5 daystars for the back, and some 1s for the front. Once I get them on ill come back here to report out on it.
DreadPirateJon
New member
Moving to Colorado
Hooked up and on my way to Colorado.
Hooked up and on my way to Colorado.
