Need a new winch cable. Wire or synthetic?

Ryan_289

New member
Im rebuilding an old Ramsey REP8000 that I had laying around to put on my 97. I will need to get a new winch line for this thing and im trying decide which way I want to go. From what I can tell I can save around 30 lbs between the wire and roller fairlead and the synthetic and hawse fairlead. Would this give me any noticable difference in MPGs?

What are the pros/cons of each? The wire cable is definatly cheaper.
 
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That's about the only pro.

While some say that the wire is better, I would choose synthetic over wire any day.

The ability to easily repair it on the trail, if needed, and the fact that it doesn't snap back like wire does, are the main points for why I plan on using synthetic when I get my winch.
 
I'll take synthetic over wire any day. It's a lot safer and a lot easier to use. It's usually stronger for the same size and IF it breaks, it falls pretty fast.
You do have to be more careful with synthetic rope running over something like rocks, ground or trees. These areas must be covered with something heavy like a carpet or rubber mat. With wire I wouldn't think twice about it running over a tree but would still protect it on rocks.
 
I have both. Steel on the Taco and Synthetic on the Runner.

You have answered your own question. It is lighter, safer, and it floats.
 
I don't have a winch on my 4runner yet. But I will speak from the experience of a rigger/longshoreman who works with wire and synthetic slings and cable on a daily basis.

Synthetic is awesome. It's lighter, easier to work with, and strong. At the same time it can't take the beating wire can, it can break down over time through extended exposure to direct sunlight, and it can begin to chafe from exposure to metal shavings or coarse dirt/rock mixtures.

That being said, when I buy a winch it will have synthetic line.
 
Synthetic is SO much easier to handle, especially when you have to real it in after you recovered your idiot friend for the 3rd time in a day. I still have cable in my FJ62 but when the opportunity arises, I'll switch.

Added benefits are using a Hawse fairlead instead of a roller, and the availability of safety thimbles like you can see here:

Slee - Winches

:couch2:
 
Since no one answered it, 30lbs difference out of a 4000lb+ vehicle won't make a noticeable difference :D
 
It really depends where you wheel. If you spend a lot of time in the rocks and drag cable on rocks I would go with a wire. They take a LOT more abuse when it comes to chaffing. I know out in Moab there really aren't a lot of anchor points so you end up with really long pulls and drag cable on rocks alot.
 
Please elaborate!

:couch2:

rope is something like $2-4 per FOOT. I don't remember what my cable was, but its considerably less than that.

in the years ive been wheeling with a winch, I haven't been in a situation where I thought, "man, I wish I had rope!"

the weight savings, and ease of use would be nice, but for ME its not $400 nice.

cable works very well. a winch is inherently dangerous anyway, just be smart about how you do things, and there wont be any problems.
 
the weight savings, and ease of use would be nice, but for ME its not $400 nice.

cable works very well. a winch is inherently dangerous anyway, just be smart about how you do things, and there wont be any problems.

Hard to argue with that, I still prefer it, but I haven't ponied up either LOL.

:couch2:
 
Ditto on what everyone said about pros of synthetic... I run a synthetic line as well, cost me almost $300 thou, ridiculous how much they charge for some rope. That being said I do have my old winch line from my m8000 - its never been used, I just coiled it up and its sitting in my room. Message me if your interested I'm willing to let it go for significantly less than most online places advertise.
 
I'm in the same boat. Got brand new wire and roller fairlead off my m8000 that I need to get rid of if anyone wants it. Just make an offer.
 
I would advise against synthetic line, I have had my warn m8000 with synthetic warn line rated for 18,000 break yesterday after about 10 uses of the winch I was pulling people out I have used the winch maybe 50 times and it has been on the rig under a year and the line broke in about 30feet out of the spool...I was using proper techniques and it literally snapped in half pulling a 4runner out :boom: going to go put the aircraft cable back on...I couldn't believe how weak this line was and I have been babying it taking extremely good care of the line. Im going to try and get it replaced under warranty shit don't add up



looks perfect to me

 
Steel VS Dyneema: An engineer's wild speculation

Im rebuilding an old Ramsey REP8000 that I had laying around to put on my 97. I will need to get a new winch line for this thing and im trying decide which way I want to go. From what I can tell I can save around 30 lbs between the wire and roller fairlead and the synthetic and hawse fairlead. Would this give me any noticable difference in MPGs?

What are the pros/cons of each? The wire cable is definatly cheaper.

SO I need this question answered too. I am in the process of wiring up my lights and winch to my new SOS off road concept bumper before install. I got the aluminum bumper so weight of the cable really does apply for me. My dad told me stories of aircraft recovery cables breaking on his aircraft carrier so I have concerns. But then I think about synthetic fiber and the elongation curve and increased incidence of failure relative to steel due to maintenance, but then ther is P=MV, and steel is nearly 8 times as dense as synthetic. etc. So I watched youtube vids of cable and rope breaks and it was nothing. No cables flew anywhere but the ropes did shoot back like a rubber band snapping off your finger and hitting you in the eye. So luckily, I researched carbon fiber in engineering school so I'm going to drop some knowledge and compare products.

The products I will be comparing are 3/8" diameter 7x19 galvanized steel vs. 3/8 Dyneema SK75 12 strand braided rope.

I picked these two products because this is the steel rope that came on my 1200 winch and 3/8 Dyneema is widely attached to other winches (according to some googling).

Cable Strength rating:
Steel = 12000#
Dyneema=17500#

Ultimate Tensile Strength of Material
Steel=75,000 psi
Dyneema=478,625psi

Yield Strength of material
Steel=36,000 PSI
Dyneema=none
Carbon fiber=none

Modules of elasticity:
Steel=29,000,000 psi
Dyneema=16,820,000*
Carbon fiber=26,250,000

Elongation at break
Steel=.125-0.26%
Dyneema=3-4%

Max operating Temperature
Steel=572F
Dyneema=160F

Specific gravity
Steel=7.8
Dyneema=0.977
Water=1.0

UV resistance
Steel=Immortal
Dyneema=50% fiber retention strength at 1630hrs

Strength reduction due to time and use
Steel=years
Dyneema=60% of original strength at 24 months

There are all the specs. I had to scower the internet for this stuff. I went to manufactures specs, yach rope sites, American Institute of Steel Construction, and more. Here are the results from easy to complicated.

Specific gravity:
This is a ratio of the density of the product to water. So comparing steel to Dyneema, we can see it is 7.98 times heavier for the same length of rope. 100' of steel is 25# and Dyneema would be about 4#. So we are talking about 21# difference.

Cable strength rating:
Dynemma is 45% stronger given the same size. But a lot can be said here. Most importantly, is the effect of UV. The manufacturers technical bulletin (which is super biased to their own product) reported a 50% reduction in strength at 1630hrs of UV. That like 9 months of indirect sunlight then the Dynemma is rated at only 73% of the steels strength. I have also come across a lot of reading material talking about abrasion. Looks like raw, un sheathed 12 strand braded dyneema is like a glue trap for dirt. So you need a sheath to protect against abrasion and UV. well if we increase the diameter of the Dyneema for a sheathing, a similar increase in steel diameter results in superior strength for steel. Like a 1/16" increase in diameter for steel provides a strength of 17,600#. So strength per weight, dyneema wins. But strength per diameter and therefor length of rope on the spool, steel wins.
Strength reduction due to time and use:
It is important to note that manufacturers spec sheets are made as an advertising aid supporting their product. But Dyneemma still states that with continued use and exposure to the elements, you should expect to lose 40% of the original strength within 2 years. A similar metric for steel could not be found.
Max operating temperature:
I don’t know a lot about winches but I hare they can put off some heat. According to manufacturer’s specs, Dyneema begins to experiance plastic deformation at reduced loads around 150 degrees F. Yall chime in if you know how hot a winch cylinder can get. What that means is that you will induce a permanent stretch in the cable called plastic deformation. It reduces the cross section of the cable while lengthening it. This results in a permanent strength reduction. I can see how a few cycles of this could be a failure mechanism. Brain wave, the radiator that it is mounted next to the rope puts off a lot of heat. Actually, that is really important to discuss. If you like to provide a little tension to your rope when you spool all the way up to keep the clevis from vibrating free on the road, you are loading the rope for very extended periods of time next to your radiator. I suspect this is bad.
However, this stuff is amazing in the cold, far superior to carbon steel. Dyneema apparently does not experience the temperature induced brittleness many crystallin materials do. So if you live in real cold, this product is a solid win. Anyways, almost nothing sounds as bad to me as manipulating a wet steel cable in below freezing conditions.
OK lets get to the fun stuff, breaking under load. In this section I am going to combine the first 6 categories.
So the most significant mechanical difference between steel and Dyneema is that, at standard operating temperatures steel experiences plastic fatigue prior to failure and Dyneema does not. It is important to remember that what makes a failure dangerous is the amount of stored energy. In this case we are dealing with strain energy (i.e. potential energy). As you load the two ropes they stretch relative to their modulus of elasticity ( E ). The larger the number, the stiffer the material and smaller the stretch. Something with a low E like a rubber band give you a lot of notice that you have loaded it. You know, all the stretching? But it is not so easy to tell with a material with a high E. Think about a steel cable loaded with 1000# vs 40,000#. You cant tell be looking at it or plucking it. But when 40,000# breaks, of god. Dyneema’s E is nearly half that of steel. That means twice the stretching for the Dyneema. And that is not considering the stretch cause by the rope braid collapsing under load. Ropes do that. Steel cables don’t. Steel ropes go through a process called construction stretching that is permanent after the first use.
Importantly, steel has this cool safety property called plasticity and engineers love it because it allows ductile failure. What that looks like is a phenomenon called necking. The material elongates plasticly under no additional load. In regards to strain energy, it actually releases energy prior to failure. This is what it looks like. https://youtu.be/W5A8gU37wGg
Dybeema, much like carbon fiber has no plastic phase. It is all elastic till failure. This means it continues to build load as your winch is turning till it fails suddenly at peak load. This is what it looks like https://youtu.be/aH9vcV7jzG0
Say both a steel and Dyneema rope were damaged and were going to break at 10,000#. The Dyneema with the lower E value and no plastic phase would have a much larger stretch than steel. The low mass relative to the steel would also allow the light rope to whip more. Steel will experience necking and may only have partial strand failure. This could save you from going over on a slope. Here is an example of the two failure methods. https://youtu.be/cYEMT5avIUk

Conclusion: Steel is more durable and reliable hands down. I don’t thing you can argue the UV, abrasion, and temperature vulnerability of Dyneema. The claim “dyneema is stronger than steel” is only partially true. Dyneema’s Strength to weigh ratio is herculean coming in at 9 times the strength of steel given the same weight. But it’s strength to area ratio when braided and sheathed is less than steel but not by much. Given the same diameter ropes of the same length on the same winch, the steel rope would have a 1% advantage. That’s negligible in my book. Dyneema is lighter, more flexible, spools easier, and does not stab you in the hand like steel does. That a huge plus. But it should have higher incidences of failure than steel, and dyneema’s failure is always complete where steel has the potential for partial failure. I hear dyneema can be spliced in the field. If that is true, that is an awesome selling point. I think I am going to stick with my steel till the broken fibers stab me in the hand one to many times. Then I may try Dyneema.
 
It’s preference. Steel line is definitely less maintenance. You don’t have to worry about it going over rocks so much or through dirt. If your winching at odd angles. Also there’s more to winching then just hooking it up to a tree. Different scenarios can reduce the capacity of the line. Also a thimble is the best Option. Synthetic line requires to be washed occasionally and be protected from elements.
 

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