Need advice ASAP - Frame rust issue

[Skibber]

In my preparation to repaint my frame I came across a couple spots where the rust has completely eaten thru the frame rail on the passenger side. See link to photos in this post http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/223645-bought-3rd-gen-strange-history-am-i-screwed-3.html#post2498595

Anyhow...after some tips from another post I signed up on Toyota's site and entered my VIN to check the vehicle's history. Low and behold there was a repair order from 09/14 stating that the previous owner brought the vehicle in after a 3rd party mechanic notified her of the issue. The vehicle was then sold about 1000 miles and 3 months later.

Jump to 01/15 when I made the purchase. I figured it was a normal midwest frame for this age. I crawled around under it for about a couple minutes and saw some areas of surface rust, but did not see the affected area at this time.

Details: 2001 T4R Limited with 127k purchased for just under $8k total cost out the door. I did opt for the 3yr/30k power train warranty as I wanted to cover my a$$ if something major went wrong. I have 142k on it now and all seems well except for the rust holes that I was planning to patch.

 

[Skibber]

*Bump* Bueller

C'mon everyone...80 views and no one has anything to say. Not even any flames for missing a problem like this? :crazy:

 

[MN4runnerman]

I think you answered your own question. Talk with the rep and see what they want to do and if they'll work with you on it. If not take it to an independent shop and they will do it for a lot less.

 

[Black798]

The spots are definitely fixable with the right tools and time. Ive seen much worse. If it were my 4runner in that situation, I would get the dealer to at least cover the cost to patch the holes in the frame since they said nothing about it. Granted you should have caught it when buying it or sometime soon after, but either way them not saying anything is wrong because I can guarantee they had it on a lift and someone saw that. Id say the spots are isolated enough to patch so I say make them cover that and maybe throw in some free oil changes or something.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I'll bite. How the hell did you miss that? I had the same exact kind of rust in the same area except it was "hidden" with a combination foam crack filler, Bondo, and black paint. Anyways, I think that until you find out what the dealership's position is, not much can be said. You are already trying to negotiate $1000's of dollars in work when just welding a patch is only a few hundred dollars. You're right, the worst they can say is no but I think if you are reasonable and proportionate in your requests, the customer rep will likely be willing to work with you. Shoot, go for the jugular first and "inquire" about a new frame. The worst they can say is no right?
I will say this. Your frame is rusted in other places that you cant see "yet", like on the opposing side hidden by the tank. These frames rust from the inside out. You can use that as a negotiating point. I sincerely hope you get some sort of satisfaction. I know how I felt when I found my rust. I tried to remedy it and ultimately, when that truck was rearended by a texting teen, I saw, first hand, what a rust weakened frame does when hit.

 

[GangsterOfLove]

No help other than to say the fact the customer service rep called you back is a good sign.

Keep us posted?

 

[Beaumont67]

Ok Skibber - I'll bite / and sorry you learned an expensive $8,000 US$ lesson.
- problem is no one wants to or can second guess, the real extent of the rust cancer / you are now facing, due to your "quick-look-see" underneath.
- is rot only isolated to the one photo, you shared / or hidden rust is more like Swiss cheese, and frame wall thickness has several severely weakened spots ?
- and the frame could crack in half / many Northern examples of vehicles, that suffer similar fates, in the 15-20 year old range / if not properly cared for &/or oil spray undercoated
No one can answer this, but your trusted mechanic / if luckily enough to have a good one.

Personally, I'd wave all the freebies and sell back to dealer (get my money refunded or trade on another) / hardly a Gen3 candidate, to dump more funds in, with money pit mods.
(sometimes hard to make a silk purse / out of a pigs ear...rust is usually tip of an iceberg, easy to see the top 10% while other 90% inside of frame, is hidden from view)
- I bought my mint-1 senior owner-rust free-low mile-dealer maintained 2000 SR5, in a rust belt province for $9,000 Canadian
- or equivalent to $7,000 US$ and fully certified with a tight Govn. safety check & complete with E-test pass / still solid like new, with original & perfect paint

Don't spend more good money / chasing a pipe dream - time to cut your $8,000 losses & hopefully the used car salesman, can make it right !!
- were I live, most frame repairs wouldn't pass the Govn. mandated safety check (any longer) / certification criteria really tightened up, in July 2016

Edit - quote removed.

 

[Skibber]

Thanks for the input everyone. It's nice to get the feedback. Almost like a symphony of tiny violins playing some soothing music! :violin:

I'm about 75% complete with my inspection and rust removal after spending a couple hours under the rig with a hammer, chisel, scraper, and wire wheel. The 2x areas that I took photos of are the only places where the rust has eaten thru. The front and tank skid plates were pretty bad, but have cleaned up nicely. I figure those would get some upgraded armor some time in the future anyhow. Everything else in terms of the frame appears to be solid so far. I've felt in most every spot that I can get into and the inside seems OK, but I would like to get a camera in there to peek around and see what's really going on.

[MENTION=106706]MN4runnerman[/MENTION] & [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] - Luckily I do have a great shop that says they can take care of it properly with no problem. He also said that what I have already cleaned up looks great so far.

[MENTION=107674]JRZEE2000TR4LTD[/MENTION] - I know...it was a bad miss. Note that the photos of the holes were taken after chipping away that pile of rust in the other photo though. I'm figuring interior & exterior frame treatment/restoration along with the patches in terms of a ballpark number for negotiating.

[MENTION=134828]Beaumont67[/MENTION] - I totally hear ya about the 10% visible & 90% hidden statement...this is my biggest fear

I'll keep everyone posted as to what pans out. I'm just hoping it's not as bad as some of the horror stories that I have read.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

I'm about 75% complete with my inspection and rust removal after spending a couple hours under the rig with a hammer, chisel, scraper, and wire wheel. The 2x areas that I took photos of are the only places where the rust has eaten thru. The front and tank skid plates were pretty bad, but have cleaned up nicely. I figure those would get some upgraded armor some time in the future anyhow. Everything else in terms of the frame appears to be solid so far. I've felt in most every spot that I can get into and the inside seems OK, but I would like to get a camera in there to peek around and see what's really going on..

If you have the time/tools, you should drop the fuel tank and check the frame rail there. It's really tight there, so it's really hard to determine the extent of rust in that area just by taking a peek.

 

[TheDurk]

If you have the time/tools, you should drop the fuel tank and check the frame rail there. It's really tight there, so it's really hard to determine the extent of rust in that area just by taking a peek.

And while you are under there, take a big screwdriver and bash it with a hammer against the bottom of the rail INSIDE the control arm bracket. It's a low point, and it likes to rust from the inside out. Make sure it is solid right there--you won't like how it drives if that LCA bracket falls off. Ask me how I know.

 

[Hepar]

Personally I would try to get my money back. Heavy rust issues are very hard to cure unless you strip the car completely down. You really only delay them for a while. Plus, it just makes every nut and screw a pain in the arse to deal with. If you can get your money back, invest in a rig from a non-rust area. It's not that much more to fly and pick it up. Plus, with how many members are here, I'm sure there would be one in the area to take a look at it for you in person. I know I would be willing. But you don't want to look here unless you enjoy paying a hefty premium.

 

[Skibber]

UPDATE: Tales from the rust belt

I got 3 quotes for the repair....2x replace the frame @ $10-12k and 1x to repair for $6500. Cost included interior and exterior rust preventative coating after the repair. Still haven't dropped the tank to see the driver side though.

Let's hear what you think about it...

 

[marcus clarkus]

Get rid of it. Options #1 and #2 are generous offers, in my opinion. Don't take the cash and dump it into fixing an unsafe rust bucket. As others said, you don't know the full extent of the damage. You made a huge mistake buying the vehicle, but were smart enough to buy the warranty too. Take the buy-back or 4th gen. I'm sure if you tell them you need a few weeks to make a decision/search for a replacement car they'll understand.

 

[T4R2014]

How much is the 4th gen worth? More than any of the other two offers? Take it, sell it, and use the extra money you made to be your desired 3rd gen.