Need advice

[durrell]

I bought my Runner with 161k miles, and it's now at 180k. It feels pretty solid, but the rear pinion bearing is on its way out (roaring) and the timing belt needs replacing. It's a little rough around the edges, but nothing too bad. I've done a ton of maintenance on it. Pretty much everything except timing belt and transmission flush, although when I installed transmission cooler the fluid was bright red and it shifts smooth so I'm not worried about it.

So, that being said, my wife wants me to get something with less mileage. I want another 3rd gen, and nothing else. It's the perfect vehicle for me, and I have grown to know it inside and out. I've found one locally for 9500 dollars, but can probably get it for 8500. It is a 2000 Limited 4x4 with 121k miles. Here it is: Link

My question for you guys: are the mid gen upgrades and lower mileage enough to justify doubling my debt? I owe 4400 on my 98. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, because my wife and I are totally torn on the issue. She's concerned about debt, but a bit more concerned about us getting stranded if something breaks.

 

[YotaZach85]

First off, I hope you made out alright with those tornadoes! My parents live in Garner (Johnston County) and they were lucky enough to not get nailed.

I would really just replace the pinion bearings and do a timing belt. If you're mechanically inclined the pinion bearings are a pretty easy job the only part that sucks is you'll need a press. The timing belt is really easy to do as well, it's pretty involved but it's not a terrible job. My truck has 230k on it now and I drive it to my parents everytime I go down to visit and I've never had an issue so you still have plenty of miles left in that truck and it wouldnt be worth the extra debt to me.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Keep it. You know your 98, you have no idea what you're getting into with this newer one. My sisters best friend has an 01 she bought brand new. It now has 140K on it and she has all kinds of problems with it because she doesn't maintain it. My 99 has 192K on it and it's problem free because it's been very well maintained.

That 00 that you buy will eventually need all the same things that your 98 needs now. Spare yourself the additional debt and just fix yours.

 

[durrell]

First off, I hope you made out alright with those tornadoes! My parents live in Garner (Johnston County) and they were lucky enough to not get nailed.

I would really just replace the pinion bearings and do a timing belt. If you're mechanically inclined the pinion bearings are a pretty easy job the only part that sucks is you'll need a press. The timing belt is really easy to do as well, it's pretty involved but it's not a terrible job. My truck has 230k on it now and I drive it to my parents everytime I go down to visit and I've never had an issue so you still have plenty of miles left in that truck and it wouldnt be worth the extra debt to me.

Thanks man! We were down in Wilmington when they hit, but I live about 5 minutes from the Johnston County line. Power went out, but nothing major.

I was quoted 600 on the pinion bearing with labor, but I would like to just swap in an e-locker if I can find one.

Keep it. You know your 98, you have no idea what you're getting into with this newer one. My sisters best friend has an 01 she bought brand new. It now has 140K on it and she has all kinds of problems with it because she doesn't maintain it. My 99 has 192K on it and it's problem free because it's been very well maintained.

That 00 that you buy will eventually need all the same things that your 98 needs now. Spare yourself the additional debt and just fix yours.

Yeah, I have a lot of faith in mine because I know the work that has been done. I feel like it could easily go another 100k with no questions asked.

Thanks for the advice guys. Keep it up.

 

[Gerdo]

Fix it and keep it.

Now is the time to upgrade the rear diff. Either find an e-locker or drop in all new parts into yours. When I wanted a locker I went thru the e-locker/ARB debate. I went ARB and all new parts, including R&P. I figured that it was time to get a fresh start. I'm glad I went that route. I know someone that dropped in a complete e-locker axle and less than a year later the ring blew up.

 

[durrell]

How much would an ARB setup like that run me with the all new parts? What you said is one of the exact reasons I want to replace more than just the bearing. I figure this problem will just reappear eventually unless I replace everything.

 

[Singtoe]

Thanks man! We were down in Wilmington when they hit, but I live about 5 minutes from the Johnston County line. Power went out, but nothing major.

I was quoted 600 on the pinion bearing with labor, but I would like to just swap in an e-locker if I can find one.



Yeah, I have a lot of faith in mine because I know the work that has been done. I feel like it could easily go another 100k with no questions asked.

Thanks for the advice guys. Keep it up.

I live in Clayton and i have a good 4:10 diff. I can sell you the diff, and install it for $250. If you want an e-locker, if you buy one, (used about $350 to $400) I can install (cut, weld, drill and tap) for $200. I just did one in my 4runner and it came out great.


You should be able to find an used elocker in the right ratio on car-part.com

 

[durrell]

I live in Clayton and i have a good 4:10 diff. I can sell you the diff, and install it for $250. If you want an e-locker, if you buy one, (used about $350 to $400) I can install (cut, weld, drill and tap) for $200. I just did one in my 4runner and it came out great.

You should be able to find an used elocker in the right ratio on car-part.com

Sell me the diff AND install it for 250? Or sell it for a price and then 250 labor?

I think I actually have 4.10 gears, but I'd need to make sure. I'm in Goldsboro, so depending on where you are in Clayton it's only a 30-45 minute drive.

 

[tinman]

My question for you guys: are the mid gen upgrades and lower mileage enough to justify doubling my debt? I owe 4400 on my 98. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, because my wife and I are totally torn on the issue. She's concerned about debt, but a bit more concerned about us getting stranded if something breaks.

I see it like this: Doubling your debt won't get you double the vehicle. If you were going from a Ford Exploder to a 4Runner, that would be one thing. But the mid-gen upgrades aren't enough IMO to double your debt.

And like others have said, a lower mileage Runner can leave you hanging quicker than a higher mileage Runner... All depends on how it's been treated. And like Pitbull Rescuer said, you'll have to do all the same things to the "newer" 3rd gen, but you'll owe double the $$$ at the same time!

If you owed more than you do on your current one, I'd say do it. But with where you are in your current one, fix the rearend and drive the wheels off of it! Then put some more wheels on it and start all over.

 

[Singtoe]

Sell me the diff AND install it for 250? Or sell it for a price and then 250 labor?

I think I actually have 4.10 gears, but I'd need to make sure. I'm in Goldsboro, so depending on where you are in Clayton it's only a 30-45 minute drive.

Yep, sell you a diff and install it.

Used e-lockers from car-part

1997 Carrier Toyota 4Runner 4.10 LOCKER CHECKED ON SHELF #F002T94 $400 American Pickup Salvage USA-AR(Paragould) Request_Quote 1-870-236-8392 Request_Insurance_Quote

2000 Carrier Toyota 4Runner Axl, w/diff lock, 4.10 ratio-MATCH 8B1550 $350 Blevins Auto Enterprise USA-TN(Roan-Mountain) E-mail 1-800-525-6329

1998 Carrier Toyota 4Runner CHECK RATIO-0K A 19244 $325 Rastro 74 Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Medley) E-mail 1-305-592-6478 / 1-888-592-6478

1998 Carrier Toyota 4Runner (REAR CRR-ONLY) CODE:A03A 4.10 S0770 $250 Bruce Auto Parts - PRP-MA VARA USA-VA(Mechanicsville) Request_Quote 1-800-552-3728 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

[durrell]

Well I will probably take you up on that offer. I am fairly certain I have 4.10's, but I can't be sure. I'm finding conflicting information online. My VIN starts in JT, but according to the chart I've found, my axle code corresponds to a 4T VIN number. My door jamb codes are:

VZN185L-GKPGKA C/TR 056/FW45 A/TM A03A/A340F

 

[MTDewX8]

I bought my 00 and 4 days later I had a leak rear diff. found a used one that day for $350 complete installed the next day for $300 so your getting a good deal. I feel I got lucky cause i have a rear locker and the fact I found one the same day I found the problem.
this one was 410 gears cause I have a 5 speed. auto's have 430 for the same year. not sure if the 98's were different.

I haven't needed the diff lock, but glad I have it for when I do.

best of luck on your choice at hand.

I am loving my runner as when I bough it with 117k miles. 120 now, and we shall see how it goes

 

[durrell]

According to this page Gearratiosanddiffs the A03A code equals a 4.10 ratio.

I'd love to have the locker, but I'd rather have a known good diff than buy an e-locker and not know if it's good or not.

 

[YotaZach85]

Yeah I'm pretty sure you have 4.10s, usually v6 autos have 4.10s unless they have the elocker which is usually 4.30s.

 

[SgtAbn]

I would not spend the money on a newer one with less miles. I would spend my $ on PREVENTIVE maintenance on the one you have. I have 250,000+ miles on mine and have NEVER broke down or been stranded.

 

[durrell]

Yep. That's the plan. Preventative maintenance is pretty much done.