need CV Axle help

DeclansDaddy

New member
I recently rebuilt a set of Aisins to swap onto my truck. My question is, on the IFS setup is there supposed to be a C-clip holding the axle into the hub or the little gold bolt in the end of the CV? or both? The FSM shows just a C-clip. My 86 only has the gold bolt. The donor truck I got the hubs off only had the gold bolt (87 pickup). My 95 was equipped with ADD and when I swapped them out it actually had the bolt and the C-clip. Reason I am asking is I feel I am getting clunking noises from my hubs which is why I chose to rebuild. I can take my CV axle with my hand and move it in and out of the hub probably a 1/4". And when I do that it makes quite the clunk. Could this be my problem?
 
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I recently rebuilt a set of Aisins to swap onto my truck. My question is, on the IFS setup is there supposed to be a C-clip holding the axle into the hub or the little gold bolt in the end of the CV? or both? The FSM shows just a C-clip. My 86 only has the gold bolt. The donor truck I got the hubs off only had the gold bolt (87 pickup). My 95 was equipped with ADD and when I swapped them out it actually had the bolt and the C-clip. Reason I am asking is I feel I am getting clunking noises from my hubs which is why I chose to rebuild. I can take my CV axle with my hand and move it in and out of the hub probably a 1/4". And when I do that it makes quite the clunk. Could this be my problem?


Yes there should be a c clip that is what actually holds it in. the bolt is just a piece of mine thing. I have it but I also pulled one into a cone shape by unbolting my drive flange before taking the bolt off. NOOB MOVE:peep:
 
Yes there should be a c clip that is what actually holds it in. the bolt is just a piece of mine thing. I have it but I also pulled one into a cone shape by unbolting my drive flange before taking the bolt off. NOOB MOVE:peep:

That's what I thought. I think I found my problem. Actually the C-clip and bolt were there but I believe the C-Clip was on wrong, which would be my fault as I did put the lift on which means I tore it all apart. Correct me if I'm wrong but here's what I'm thinking I did.

Heres the hub and C-clip off.
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Now here's one with the splined washer. When I took this apart this time the splined washer was on the hub side of the C-Clip. This was putting the C-clip right up against the brass bushing and I believe as it was sipinning the clip was catching the notches in the bushing because the clip was definitely bent. So I'm assuming that the splined washer should go up against the brass bushing then the C-clip on...Correct? That pulls the half shaft tighter and it doesn't slap around.
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Here you go:

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Brass bushing, splined spacer, snap ring. You can get those spacers in different widths if you need to adjust the in and out play of the CV in the spindle.

The gold bolt and washer is very damned useful for putting a claw hammer on and pulling the CV out far enough to seat the snap ring, and if you leave it in there I guess it can function as a backup in case the snap ring fails, or the hub shears it's bolts?
 
Brass bushing, splined spacer, snap ring. You can get those spacers in different widths if you need to adjust the in and out play of the CV in the spindle.

The gold bolt and washer is very damned useful for putting a claw hammer on and pulling the CV out far enough to seat the snap ring, and if you leave it in there I guess it can function as a backup in case the snap ring fails, or the hub shears it's bolts?

Exactly what I needed. It took me a minute to realize the only FSM I could download was for a '85 which in any other aspect would be helpful but not here. I'm thinking I may need a wider shim. I put a bolt in the axle and pulled it by hand and the clip snapped in. There's not much play but I didn't have to pry on it to get it in.
 
Exactly what I needed. It took me a minute to realize the only FSM I could download was for a '85 which in any other aspect would be helpful but not here.

Check your PMs. :)

I'm thinking I may need a wider shim. I put a bolt in the axle and pulled it by hand and the clip snapped in. There's not much play but I didn't have to pry on it to get it in.

I believe the FSM has specs for how much play that CV should have. I also believe that it's not super critical, but it should be relatively snug.
 
Well got everything put back together with the freshly rebuilt Aisins and all stainless hardware. And of course I still have a popping in the front end. Really all that's left is the CV axles or something internal in the front diff. Guess I'll pick up a set of CVs and try that out. Any body know if popping the studs out where the cvs bolt to the diff and just putting bolts in instead will work. I know getting the cv out is a pain without popping a ball joint but it seems if the bolts backed out the axle would slide right out in the future. Seems like it would make a trail axle replacement a lot easier if it's possible.
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Update: I thought for sure my CV axles were the problem as it seems the popping gets worse with the wheels turned. So today I went and got some OEM remans and threw them in and my luck I still have the popping. Very frustrating. In the past few weeks I've put $300+ in a front end that I can't wait to torch out of my truck!!! Any ideas what to do next to help diagnose the problem. If I roll into the gas easily it does not do it only when I hit the gas hard and in 4lo. 4 high does it also but doesn't seem near as loud. It also shakes the steering wheel when it does it. Which is why I thought it was the CVs for sure.
 
Tie rod ends, steering gearbox, ball joints? Just ruling everything out...

Tie rods and ball joints are all brand new also. It's definitely something in the front drivetrain. I guess you'd really have to hear it to get a good idea of what's going on. Maybe tomorrow I'll try to get a video of it tomorrow. In 2wd all is normal. Just have the noise in 4wd. In 4 low it's really loud when I get on the gas and once I get going it's fine then when I let off the gas quickly it does it again. It's a loud clunk and when it clunks it shakes the steering wheel. I swear it feels like the cv joints. Anyone ever heard of CV axles being extended too far? I have a 4" bracket lift with the diff drop and all. When I put the new CVs in today I noticed I had to pull the axle out very far to get the c clip in. If it is pulling the inner joint out to the stop could it be binding up?
 
Ok, so let's stop throwing parts at the thing and isolate your trouble first.

Put the truck in 4WD, leave the hubs unlocked - does it do it?

Put the truck in 2WD, lock the hubs - does it do it?

When it does it, does it physically move the steering wheel or do you just feel the thump in the steering wheel?

Turn the truck off, put it in gear (or park) and lock the hubs, engage the ebrake, check the front driveshaft for play in all directions.

Leave the truck in gear with the ebrake on, jack up each front wheel one at a time and check for play in all directions - push, pull, shake, wiggle, etc.

Put the truck back down, take some hi res pics of your CV angles and CV boots with the truck sitting normally on level ground, post 'em up.
 
Ok, so let's stop throwing parts at the thing and isolate your trouble first.

Put the truck in 4WD, leave the hubs unlocked - does it do it?

Put the truck in 2WD, lock the hubs - does it do it?

When it does it, does it physically move the steering wheel or do you just feel the thump in the steering wheel?

Turn the truck off, put it in gear (or park) and lock the hubs, engage the ebrake, check the front driveshaft for play in all directions.

Leave the truck in gear with the ebrake on, jack up each front wheel one at a time and check for play in all directions - push, pull, shake, wiggle, etc.

Put the truck back down, take some hi res pics of your CV angles and CV boots with the truck sitting normally on level ground, post 'em up.

Well I did all of the test you mentioned and the only time it will do it is in 4wd, hubs locked, on the ground with a load on it. So I finally got someone to come help me and drive the truck while I stood beside it and I actually believe my problem is in the Transfer Case. The sound seems to be where the front shaft enters the Trans case and when it makes the pop it appears that the driveshaft is stopping for a split second. The fact that there is red RTV oozing out around where the case halves go together I can only assume someone's been in it. I know the transmission isn't the factory auto, it's out of a 2nd gen. I Looked into this before and I can't remember but it's a 340h or f or g or something like that. So I guess once I determine which trans I have again I'll dig into what it could be. Loose chain perhaps(if it's chain driven) or busted gears?? I believe Kid that in my build you told me which one I have I just got to look back into it. It's the auto trans with 2 oil pans.
 
So after doing a little research I've found that I have a A340H trans which is the hydraulic driven transfer case. Tomorrow I'm going to investigate whats going on. It seems something is slipping. Either maybe the chain/sprockets are damaged or perhaps the splines on the front output shaft. Hopefully I can pull the rear cover off and figure out whats going on. I've been debating the 5spd swap but (1) I'm lazy and not shifting is awesome and (2) I'm 6'5" and there's not really a whole lot of room for clutching. And the idea of the A340F with a adapter and gear driven transfer sounds like what I'd really want but the fact is that I need 4wd ASAP so hopefully I can fix this on the cheap for now.
 
Hey DD, anytime you need a hand on something, hit me up, i may not be able to come right at that moment, but i can usually make time w/ a little heads up.
 
I'll keep that in mind Mike. If you know anyone local with a 2nd gen for parts with a good auto trans I may be in need of some transfer case parts. I've scoured the local Craigslists and all I can find is 5spd stuff.
 
Try Doc Jones Auto Parts yet? 1283 Twiggs Ferry Rd,

Hartfield, VA 23071

(804) 776-6900

Nationwide shipping. All sales COD. Hours: 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. Closed Sundays, Mondays and rainy days. In business more than 44 years.

Also try this dude Ahmid at Discount Auto

17033 New Hope Road Shacklefords, VA 23156‎
(804) 785-7115

He did the dye test on my T4R original motor, he may point you to someone or have it himself.

And lastly, i pass this place every day coming home, they're up on rt 17 up by the Ark Shell station

9243 George Washington Memorial Highway Gloucester Courthouse, VA 23061
(804) 693-5860
 
Ok so I'm going to start a thread on my trans to finish this up as this cv axle thread is pointless for the problems I have found. Check out the new thread as you may be amused or amazed by what you see.
 

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