Need Electrical Genius

[BusterScruggs]

Here is my situation:
I was trying to add a CALI Raised switch using the windshield wiper heater switch and I shorted something, the 7.5 amp fuse labeled "Panel"popped, I replaced it and noticed all the lights went off in the overhead panel, the stereo side lights, the ac lights, and the wiper lights, but i still get power to the green wire on the wiper switch, but the grey wire seems to not work.

When i ran a lead off the gray wire to a metal spot on the frame all the lights turn back on? any ideas?

Also the dimmer switch still dims the gauge cluster and the radio screen, but if I touch the lead from the wiper switch ground side to metal the lights turn back on but they wont dim now... Took apart the dimmer and its not burnt.

I am completely lost as to what happened and where. I went and looked at interior pictures on google to see if something wasn't lighting up trying to pinpoint where the short is but everything turns on when I touch the lead from the grey wire to metal, even the wiper switch still works.

Also after the fact I added a Add-A-Circuit to the tail light 10 amp fuse underneath and it popped soon as i turned the lights on. I took the underdash fuse panel out, all the connectors are fine.:embarassed: I have no idea what happened

 

[flyrv9]

You should never ever do any type of electrical work with the battery connected. Here is what I would do to troubleshoot this: Disconnect the battery and remove Everything you installed - all components, wires, taps, splices, etc. Return things back to where they were before you started. Then remove and check every fuse in both fuse panels with a meter; and replace any that are blown with the proper value. Then check for any wiring damage and repair anything found damaged. Check any other suspect components. Once you have done all that - reconnect the battery and see where you are. If you have a check engine light - get a code reader and see what codes are posted and decode them. If you're lucky you will not have done any damage.

 

[BusterScruggs]

You should never ever do any type of electrical work with the battery connected. Here is what I would do to troubleshoot this: Disconnect the battery and remove Everything you installed - all components, wires, taps, splices, etc. Return things back to where they were before you started. Then remove and check every fuse in both fuse panels with a meter; and replace any that are blown with the proper value. Then check for any wiring damage and repair anything found damaged. Check any other suspect components. Once you have done all that - reconnect the battery and see where you are. If you have a check engine light - get a code reader and see what codes are posted and decode them. If you're lucky you will not have done any damage.

Well thats where I am at now,Put everything back I checked all the fuses, everything is fine on that front. The only thing is the illumination lights wont work, I almost took every thing apart under the dash and didnt see any burnt connectors going into that fuse box.. I am stuck at what else to look for? I am not sure where all the ground junctions are for the illumination circuit but its almost like the ground is loose some where because if i ground out the wiper switch using a t-tap and eye connector to a frame screw everything works. from the positive side of the battery on the lead i am getting good results on the Volt meter, but if i take the lead off and just check the circuit it goes down to .4 volts. :redbrick:

 

[BusterScruggs]

Does anyone know how the dimmer circuit works? I know it uses resistance but where is that located? Inside the dimmer switch itself?

 

[flyrv9]

On the front page where the threads are listed is one called Mods, Write-ups and quick links. Under quick links is a link called TIS FSM for 2010 4Runner by Nashman. It is the service manual for the 2010. In it is a section for electrical wiring diagrams. You can look there for the dimmer circuit. Odds are fair that it hasn't been changed and may help you locate and trace the dimmer wiring. The only other way is keep your test ground; as long as everything else works.

 

[BusterScruggs]

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Okay so there it is, so on the left side 42 /4B 81 /4A

Looks like that might be where this is, the FS1 connect is on the pillar to go up to the roof, but that long grey part on the left side where all the switches tie to on the ground side, how do i find that?

 

[BusterScruggs]

I think I found where all the grounds end up:

the panel 7.5 amp circuit ground fallows the whole chart to the rheostat in diagram one it all goes to junction point F64

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

and the next part shows where that junction is
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I think I might be on the right track to find where the short is, when I connect that ground it back feeds the whole circuit ground and everything works, but the rheostat ties into that junction point so if that one wire that shorted is broke it wont travel back out to the rheostat for the resistance.

Does this sound somewhat correct?

 

[flyrv9]

Yes, I think you are on the right track. I hate these drawings! But if you put you meter on ohms and measure between pin 3 on the dimmer rheostat and ground at F64 and turn the dimmer you should get a change in resistance. If you don't but do with another ground point - then there is an open somewhere between those 2 points. If that's the case and everything else works - then I'd just use another ground. By everything working - I mean run everything you can and check all electrical functions. You don't want to discover later that something else isn't working and not know if it's a new problem or related to this one.

 

[BusterScruggs]

Yes, I think you are on the right track. I hate these drawings! But if you put you meter on ohms and measure between pin 3 on the dimmer rheostat and ground at F64 and turn the dimmer you should get a change in resistance. If you don't but do with another ground point - then there is an open somewhere between those 2 points. If that's the case and everything else works - then I'd just use another ground. By everything working - I mean run everything you can and check all electrical functions. You don't want to discover later that something else isn't working and not know if it's a new problem or related to this one.

Awesome, that is a good idea, I will check it tomorrow, just need to figure out how to get to that junction, its behind the center console support brackets from the looks of it, but I will def. keep you updated. Thank you!

 

[flyrv9]

You're welcome - you may be able to find another common electrical point that would be easier to access. I don't know if you can follow that wire from the dimmer; but that might be useful.