Need expert advice

4thgenblake

New member
I'm a bit of a situation, haven't been on the forum in quite some time so I hope someone with lift experience and knowlegde can provide

I recently hit a curb on driver side very hard and completely screwed my wheels alignment up. turn out I bent some tie rods so I had them replaced at the shop.

still won't align! now they're saying I need "aftermarket adjustable upper control arms" which I know are PRICEY and my ride didn't have initially.

my wheels go in the the top and out at the bottom? they won't be like || instead they're more like \\ if you can imagine. so I'm asking for a friend to specify what the issue could or may be, it recently went to a suspension specialist after being all around deifferent mechanics who thought they knew what the issue was.

I just don't want to get cheated out of money I'm already paying a fortune. I'm accepting all inputs on why my wheels won't align now and I need these adjustable control arms. when I didn't have them before and my lift was fine before I hit that curb.

setup: boss adjustable coil Springs bil stein 5100 in the rear factory control arms and tie rods. again, how it initially was and was perfect before, why all the sudden do I need this? what do you think the real issue is? I'll provide a picture in a few
 
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I hit a speed table - big azz speed bump and jacked up both CV boots as well as the ball joints on the UCA. It was such a hit I had to include my insurance. It was less to get Camburg UCA than stock pieces.

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You may want to look into upgrading via insurance. Good luck!
 
My bet is on a bent spindle. That would explain why none of your mechanics can figure it out because its difficult to tell they are bent.
 
From here it looks like your lca is bent. I was originally thinking your ucas are bent. If you are ok with replacing your own ball joints and uca bushings I think I have a spare set of ucas that you can have...they are straight but everything has 170k on them.

But honestly, for your rig, if you are going to spend money I would go after market. Ebay ucas maybe?
 
Don't drive it like that, please.

That's also not minor, something is ****ed up. Crawl around underneath and start comparing sides. How big was the curb you hit and how fast were you going?
 
Stop driving it immediately.

Upload more pictures of your LCAs, UCAs and spindles. We will figure this out.
 
Bent spindle?

That would be my guess as well.

From here it looks like your lca is bent. I was originally thinking your ucas are bent. If you are ok with replacing your own ball joints and uca bushings I think I have a spare set of ucas that you can have...they are straight but everything has 170k on them.

But honestly, for your rig, if you are going to spend money I would go after market. Ebay ucas maybe?

Could also be a bent LCA as well. Honestly hard to tell from that angle.

Don't drive it like that, please.

That's also not minor, something is ****ed up. Crawl around underneath and start comparing sides. How big was the curb you hit and how fast were you going?

Stop driving it immediately.

Upload more pictures of your LCAs, UCAs and spindles. We will figure this out.

Yes, we need more pictures. Specifically, a pictures of the clearance between the tire and steering knuckle, a good clear shot of the steering knuckle and the LCAs, and the UCAs for both sides.
 
It's hard to believe both wheels got knocked so far out of camber (and in perfect symmetry) when just the driver's side experienced the hit. I'm thinking that picture may be a bit of an optical illusion, and what we're really looking at is bad toe-out. Either that or the various people who have worked on it have really succeeded in screwing it up.

It would be good to have a couple of pics from directly in front of each wheel.

Could also be a twisted frame member, perhaps a front cross member let go and let the frame rails roll to the inside. That's the kind of thing that happens when you jump the vehicle and land really hard.
 
The driver side definitely looks worse than the passenger side. I'd have to agree and say that the knuckle is bent. It's also very possible that your upper control arm is bent as well. I've fixed many, many cars with similar issues. It's usually pretty hard to tell with the naked eye when parts are bent unless it's really badly damaged. With a hit like that, I wouldn't be surprised if your wheel bearing isn't shot as well. Although, that won't contribute to the serious negative camber you've got going on
 
My bet is on the knuckle as well brotha...

Sorry to see that ...but I'll tell you what. I have both of my stock spindle's in great condition that your more than welcome to have them if they can help in anyway with your issue.

But also I would have to agree with the above, which I normally don't to often...being that severe of cambe and not knowing what's really fuct up, I wouldn't be driving it to much neither

Good luck brotha,

Miah
 
I appreciate all the feedback. I'm in Florida and the truck is in Georgia currently. I will get more and better pictures soon so please stay tuned! I know you guys can figure this out and it isn't not the subframe or anything that major, I had a specialist look at it for that reason
 
Agree, as many pictures possible. Straight on each tire. Straight on each knucle, LCA,UCA if possible and if you can same height pattern.

Your 1 picture looks like both sides out of whack like to many people trying to align it and it's so far out of they can't figure it out.

I've had a couple of shops try to align mine before and had it so far out of whack, they couldn't get any numbers right. Found a specialist and he laughed and came back and showed my numbers now, here you go bud.
 
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passenger side:
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driver side:
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and I took the blow on the DRIVERS side! cam is screwed up from the other tire trying to mimick driving straight but the issue is all mainly the drivers side.

had tie rods replaced, don't think it could be the arms? normal sized curb and I'll just say 30-40 from the damage.

tell me if I'm missing anything I'll get what you guys need to help sort this out. I really appreciate it
 
I still say need to find a better alignment specialty shop. Each cam changes positioning for either front or back on there perspective sides( not like turn this ones side and it moves the other side in general).
Just for kicks, I presume you have someone checking things and pictures due to different locations, but, when wheel straight, and you turn it left, should be about 5-10* past a 1.5 turns on the steering wheel. See if it the same amount the opposite directions( going to full lock.
When in this position, see where in position the stop is coming into contact and the same as the other side.(steering knuckle and LCA).
 
Reason I'm saying alignment is, I've hit some 90* blocked curbs while in turns, let alone large rocks, ect, jumping out at me on trails going a little fast for them, and haven't bent any items below. Tie rods should bend first, weak link. Out of balance rims obviously.
 

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