So I am at 102k miles on my 2004 V6 and want to flush and change the coolant system out with new SLLC. I have confirmed that I currently have the pink SLLC. My initial plan was to pull the drain plug on the radiator to drain all the coolant out of the radiator and then flush the system with distilled water (while warming the car up to normal operating temp) several times and drain until fluid coming out of the radiator was all clear. This would mean that I would have roughly about 1 gallon of distilled water within the engine block and then I could just fill the radiator all the way up with concentrated SLLC and I would have a 50/50 mix. This is where the problem is. Toyota only makes the SLLC as a 50/50 pre-diluted mix. Is there any way to do a complete flush with out pulling the drain plugs on the engine? I am sure some of you have changed your coolant on your 4th gens, any input would be awesome. I have read through numerous threads and came up with nothing concrete. Thanks in advance.
Need help changing/flushing coolant system
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I agree with Kmvreter. you should just drain it and refill. this way, you don't have to think about whether you have the correct ratio. also, remember to drain it only when the engine is cold. never when hot to avoid overheating some areas of the engine and have problems later.
fyi, I replaced my radiator at 95000 miles due to leaking radiator and at the same time replaced my thermostat and radiator cap. they recommend to replace the cap everytime you change the antifreeze. You might need at least 2 gallons of antifreeze. I noticed too that my mpg is a lot better now after I replaced my thermostat. this is only if you have mpg issues.
fyi, I replaced my radiator at 95000 miles due to leaking radiator and at the same time replaced my thermostat and radiator cap. they recommend to replace the cap everytime you change the antifreeze. You might need at least 2 gallons of antifreeze. I noticed too that my mpg is a lot better now after I replaced my thermostat. this is only if you have mpg issues.
RunnerAK
New member
+1 to the drain and fill method.
The only way that I am aware of doing a complete flush is by opening the drain plugs on the block. I did this when I replaced one of our radiators and will likely never do it again since it was such a huge PITA to get to them (I went through the wheel wells with a socket and some extreme arm origami).
The only way that I am aware of doing a complete flush is by opening the drain plugs on the block. I did this when I replaced one of our radiators and will likely never do it again since it was such a huge PITA to get to them (I went through the wheel wells with a socket and some extreme arm origami).
+1 and+2.
I replaced my leaking radiator last December. I also did the water pump and thermostat while I had everything apart. I agonized over trying to flush it and having the correct ratio when I was done. After looking at the side/block drain plugs, I thought nope!
I ended up just refilling the fluid and plan to do a drain and fill in the near future.
I replaced my leaking radiator last December. I also did the water pump and thermostat while I had everything apart. I agonized over trying to flush it and having the correct ratio when I was done. After looking at the side/block drain plugs, I thought nope!
I ended up just refilling the fluid and plan to do a drain and fill in the near future.
toyo
Member
I always drain the radiator, remove the thermostat, reinstall the housing with no thermostat. Remove the top radiator hose at the radiator. I will then put the water hose in the radiator hose and let it just flush it out real good. You can watch all the small particles and crap that comes out from the radiator cap opening.
When I am finished flushing, I let it all drain out. Take a few minutes to remove the heater hoses and such and let them drain as well. Block plugs as well. I them install a new thermostat and gasket. I purchase full strength Toyota red coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water. I fill the coolant reservoir bottle with full strength to the top line on the bottle. Drive it to make sure the stat opens up, let it sit overnight so it will pull any coolant from the reservoir if I had any small air in the system. Refill the reservoir to the proper level and it's all done.
I have followed this procedure on every flush job I have ever done in the 30 years of turning wrenches as a profession. On my personal cars I have never had a coolant related issue. My son's hand me down 01 RX300 with 369K miles on it has the original radiator. The radiator fins internally still look brand new to this day.
Just don't use too much water pressure. The heater core does not like too much pressure, at least that's my thinking!
When I am finished flushing, I let it all drain out. Take a few minutes to remove the heater hoses and such and let them drain as well. Block plugs as well. I them install a new thermostat and gasket. I purchase full strength Toyota red coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water. I fill the coolant reservoir bottle with full strength to the top line on the bottle. Drive it to make sure the stat opens up, let it sit overnight so it will pull any coolant from the reservoir if I had any small air in the system. Refill the reservoir to the proper level and it's all done.
I have followed this procedure on every flush job I have ever done in the 30 years of turning wrenches as a profession. On my personal cars I have never had a coolant related issue. My son's hand me down 01 RX300 with 369K miles on it has the original radiator. The radiator fins internally still look brand new to this day.
Just don't use too much water pressure. The heater core does not like too much pressure, at least that's my thinking!
Kmvreter
New member
Not disagreeing with your method but the recommended OEM coolant is SLLC pink which is only available premixed, not full strength. I'm not sure if the OEM red and OEM pink are interchangeable.
toyo
Member
Since I have no pink coolant remaining it wont matter. No need to worry about compatibility.
http://www.toyotapart.com/ENGINE_COOLANT_COLOR_CHANGE_T-PG010-02.pdf
I'm not even sure that this gets everything out.
I know it's a V8, but on our new (to us) 2008, I drained the rad to change it since it had a leak. Imagine my surprise on removal finding out that the draincock on the lower driver's side only dumps about 1/2 of the coolant from the radiator.
To get as much as possible, also remove the lower radiator hose & the cooling lines under the steering rack.
You could also refill with distilled water, drive 10 minutes & drain everything again, and I'm pretty sure you'd be getting the vast majority of the old coolant out. Remember to run the heater full blast to drain that part of the system as well.
BlackWorksInc
New member
I don't remember if the 1GR-FEs are set up the same as the 2UZ-FEs, but on the 2UZ-FE the easiest way to empty EVERYTHING out of the cooling system is to drop the lower radiator hose (I mentioned this in my timing belt thread) because it is literally the lowest point of the entire cooling system from engine to radiator. But the 1GR-FE may be different and have the lower radiator hose slightly higher than the lowest point of the coolant passages. Keep in mind that coolant is only going to be in the upper half of the engine block as the bottom is typically just for engine oil, the coolant passages are just below the bottom of the pistons, so the petcocks should be at the lowest point of the engine block.
Also, the petcocks can be a pain to get at sometimes, usually a universal socket and a long extension are useful.
I asked the Toyota parts department person if they were interchangeable last year when I bought my coolant. He didn't know and did some checking. He later said that they were indeed two different types of coolant and were not interchangeable.
I'm not sure how reliable his answer is, but just thought I would put it out there for what it's worth.
[MENTION=100496]blackworks[/MENTION] probably knows the answer.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Toyota Vehicles Older than about '03 (depends on the model, all 4th Gens use Toyota SLLC "Pink")
-Toyota LLC (Aka "Toyota Red") works in all Toyota vehicles that call for Toyota LLC "Red" or older than '98.
-You can mix Toyota SLLC "Pink" with Toyota LLC "Red" coolant in a vehicle that calls for Toyota LLC "Red."
-You CANNOT mix Toyota LLC "Red" with Toyota SLLC "Pink" in a vehicle that calls for Toyota SLLC "Pink."
Toyota Vehicles Newer than about '03
-Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) or "Toyota Pink" should only be used in vehicles calling for Toyota SLLC "Pink"
-You CANNOT mix Toyota LLC "Red" with Toyota SLLC "Pink" in a vehicle calling for Toyota SLLC "Pink"
The above section of text is brought to you by my failed attempt to help another member find alternative coolants to Toyota SLLC... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/162783-valvoline-extended-life-ok-after-flush.html
Basically, 4th Gen 4Runners use Toyota SLLC "Pink" Coolant and nothing else, the Toyota LLC "Red" Coolant is for older Toyota Vehicles. SLLC is not backwards compatible with LLC, but LLC is forwards compatible (like Dot 3 & Dot 4 Brake fluid.)
Thank you everyone
I really appreciate all the input and suggestions from everyone. I went ahead and drained the coolant from the radiator and overflow tank and then replaced with new SLLC. I got just under a gallon when I drained the two. Also I parked on a decline before draining in hopes that some of the coolant from the engine would drain also. Not sure if that logic is correct or not. Any way I will go a head and repeat the above process in a couple months then call it good for 20-30k? Does that sound like a reasonable interval? I may also consider disconnecting the lower radiator hose as [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] suggested to get the majority of the coolant out. I have an 04 v6 sport what engine would I have? 1GRFE or 2UZFE? Thanks again
I really appreciate all the input and suggestions from everyone. I went ahead and drained the coolant from the radiator and overflow tank and then replaced with new SLLC. I got just under a gallon when I drained the two. Also I parked on a decline before draining in hopes that some of the coolant from the engine would drain also. Not sure if that logic is correct or not. Any way I will go a head and repeat the above process in a couple months then call it good for 20-30k? Does that sound like a reasonable interval? I may also consider disconnecting the lower radiator hose as [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] suggested to get the majority of the coolant out. I have an 04 v6 sport what engine would I have? 1GRFE or 2UZFE? Thanks again
BlackWorksInc
New member
4.0L V6 is 1GR-FE
4.7L V8 is 2UZ-FE
4.7L V8 is 2UZ-FE
jedreyling
New member
I agree with Kmvreter. you should just drain it and refill.
from my manual, after the first change at 100000 miles, the next change should be at another 50000 miles. another way to remove extra coolant is to pump some air at the top hose and radiator hose connection. this will push some of the fluids that are inside the engine towards the radiator and drain faucet. by the way, disconnecting the lower radiator hose will not work due to the thermostat that is in closed position. if you remove the thermostat, a lot more will drain, that is my experience.
BlackWorksInc
New member
That's important to note, Toyota SLLC is a "Super Long Life Coolant" in that its first service is not due until 10yr/100k, after the vehicle has reached 10yr/100k you are expected to perform a coolant service followed by a 5yr/50k service interval for the rest of the vehicle's life (I believe Toyota's "Severe Driving Conditions" table actually shortens the initial coolant service as well.)
OrdnanceMarine
New member
Both my father's '08 and my '07 had coolant pump failures around the 50k mile point (thankfully, not a catastrophic failure, but significant weeping through the pump bearing weep port) and in draining the radiator I came across hundreds to thousands of black flecks in the coolant. Both of us had never touched the factory fill SLLC. This left a bitter taste in my mouth regarding SLLC so I flushed with RO water and switched to the Zerex Asian and will probably drain at least some coolant on an annual basis to see if the sediment I was seeing is still there.
Bottom line is that I'm not sure I'd wait 10 years to drain and fill just like I wouldn't consider the transmission to have a "lifetime" fill.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Honestly I wouldn't fault the Toyota SLLC, its not magick super sauce, but its pretty damn good stuff; the water pumps these days seem to be prone to leakage, I went over this some with 1Engineer in the 5th gen section (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/165186-stupid-5th-gen-engineers.htmlits a pretty good read, I'm still not 100% convinced by Toyota's TSB on the matter, but its always nice to bounce ideas off people) regarding a TSB that describes such excessive weepage as "normal." We honestly haven't seen any real issues caused by the coolant being in there for the 10yr/100k, but after the first service it is important to note that the service interval changes to 5yr/50k (also the interval changes for "severe driving conditions.) I wouldn't fault anyone for wanting to change it at 5yr/50k, the black flecks are in my experience a rare phenomenon and I wonder if it has to do with the water pump failure?
On a side note, glad you guys found a good alternative to the factory coolant (Zerex Asian being currently the only aftermarket coolant I have been able to match to Toyota's Specs for SLLC.)
OrdnanceMarine
New member
I have seen the TSB on the matter and while I can't speak for my father's 4Runner, since I didn't get to see it myself, mine was a condition that was getting progressively worse with the strong smell of coolant under the hood and an increasing drop in the coolant reservoir level that required refillingn indicating that this was not an acceptable condition. It was actually this drop and the fact that my used oil analysis didn't show any signs of coolant (thankfully!) that I poked around until I discovered the nice pink stalactite extending a few inches down the block from the water pump. Thankfully changing the pump isn't very difficult but I never did figure out where all of the black flecks came from.
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