need help for brake problem

I also ordered a $100 laptop off eBay that will run Windows 7 through 10 which are compatible with with some mini vci hardware that connects to techstream software. I've read this software will actuate the ABS system as you bleed it through software prompts. I would prefer to test this software solution rather than trying to force my car to activate the ABS to do so.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
I can understand that. I would watch on aftermarket electrical components. Some aftermarket parts don't play well with Toyota. So I could see abs sensor wires not functioning properly. Granted some aftermarket parts will function fine. So it's a toss up at times.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
I can understand that. I would watch on aftermarket electrical components. Some aftermarket parts don't play well with Toyota. So I could see abs sensor wires not functioning properly. Granted some aftermarket parts will function fine. So it's a toss up at times.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
I agree. I plan to replace some other components first so I can get a past due smog done. Later on, I would like to get OEM speed sensors.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
I agree. I plan to replace some other components first so I can get a past due smog done. Later on, I would like to get OEM speed sensors.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

You can sometimes get used OEM parts. That way you can save some $$ and as long as they function properly, your golden. :-)

I used used ABS sensors before..They worked..
 
would it be alright to loosen the outgoing brake tubes from the abs then pump the brake pedal? similar to bleeding the calipers?
or would that worsen the situation?


Only easy way to bleed the abs is to first do a brake bleed and then activate the abs and do another bleed if your pedal gets soft.

Edit: it took me three ABS activations on wet roads before my pedal firmness felt the same before and after activation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
would it be possible to purchase the Tech stream device? do you know which model?


Do you also know which Autel model to buy?


Just looking at my options.


Tech stream I believe can cycle your ABS modules to make sure you get all the are out. :-)

I am sure some tools like a Autel Maxicheck auto brake bleed can do it as well.:-)
 
it's possible. would you happen to know how to bleed the abs actuator/pump?

This one is extremely hard to bleed as it sits very high in the engine bay. Air likes to trap here and never come back out.

Over-excessive bleeding is the only way I got it out of mine. I had a clue though, when I bled the front passenger brake I heard a 'whine' as the fluid was pressed out coming from the engine bay that none of the others had. Kind of like when the faucet it turned down real low to make a whine noise, if you've ever heard it. That told me there was air in that ABS line and not the others. After doing it like 20 times sure enough air came out and the whine was gone. Has to be done quickly though otherwise the air just travels right back up the brake line into the ABS unit again.

Persistence is key here.
 
would it be possible to purchase the Tech stream device? do you know which model?


Do you also know which Autel model to buy?


Just looking at my options.
Trying to find the solution as it's very hard to bleed these abs units . .:(

I have yet to find a simple way.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
The brakes were bled 3x and the MC was bled prior. But the pedal is still very soft with no brakes. after pumping the pedal a few times, it hardens a bit but won't hold, the pedal just goes to the floor.
What was your master cylinder bleed procedure? Did you follow the FSM to the letter?

BFS1dvk.jpg


It is NOT the normal procedure for bench bleeding a master cylinder, which is why I ask. Also note the bleeding order for the wheels.

You likely have two things stacking up - incorrectly bled master AND air bubbles in the ABS system. Once you get the master cylinder bled correctly (you'll hear a little "clink" in there when doing it - that's the thing on the side that helps with brake feel on the rear drums). Then you'll have enough pressure to go for a drive and activate ABS on a low-traction surface - then re-bleed, and repeat.

-Charlie
 
What was your master cylinder bleed procedure? Did you follow the FSM to the letter?

It is NOT the normal procedure for bench bleeding a master cylinder, which is why I ask. Also note the bleeding order for the wheels.

You likely have two things stacking up - incorrectly bled master AND air bubbles in the ABS system. Once you get the master cylinder bled correctly (you'll hear a little "clink" in there when doing it - that's the thing on the side that helps with brake feel on the rear drums). Then you'll have enough pressure to go for a drive and activate ABS on a low-traction surface - then re-bleed, and repeat.

-Charlie

I will add to this that it helps to also do it with the engine running for bleeding the lines. It mentions having the pump running in equipped 01-02 4Runners (not sure about the Hilux) but it also helps for the older brake booster type systems. Allows for more pressure to push the air out. I always get better results from bleeding with engine on than off.
 
Not to the letter. The brake tubes where connected after replace the MC piston kit. Then the tubes where loosened one at a time while the brake pedal was pumped.



What was your master cylinder bleed procedure? Did you follow the FSM to the letter?

It is NOT the normal procedure for bench bleeding a master cylinder, which is why I ask. Also note the bleeding order for the wheels.

You likely have two things stacking up - incorrectly bled master AND air bubbles in the ABS system. Once you get the master cylinder bled correctly (you'll hear a little "clink" in there when doing it - that's the thing on the side that helps with brake feel on the rear drums). Then you'll have enough pressure to go for a drive and activate ABS on a low-traction surface - then re-bleed, and repeat.

-Charlie
 
Not to the letter. The brake tubes where connected after replace the MC piston kit. Then the tubes where loosened one at a time while the brake pedal was pumped.


If you left the brake line tube fittings loose when you released the brake pedal you just put air back in the MC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not to the letter. The brake tubes where connected after replace the MC piston kit. Then the tubes where loosened one at a time while the brake pedal was pumped.
That is definitely (at least part of) the problem. Open while pressing, sealed while releasing is required once the normal "pump a bunch" part of a bench bleed is done.

-Charlie
 
problem solved.
we followed this except no speed bleeders were used. also re-bled the MC as per [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]'s post


haven't bled the ABS actuator though. will have to look for a low traction surface long enough to allow me to play.


Thank you very much guys!! your help is very much appreciated!



Don’t pump the brakes before opening bleeder.

Let it sit overnight and then do another gravity bleed on all 4 corners until no air bubbles are in the clear hose.

Then bleeded with the pedal by doing this until no air bubbles are seen:

Open bleeder-push pedal to the floor-close bleeder-release pedal.

I don’t like speed bleeders…..and if you don’t have a friend that can listen to instructions them buy the Motive Pro pressure bleeder.

When you pump the brakes to make pressure you make a million air bubbles that end up everywhere

Black fluid means it’s absorbing moisture.

I use the synthetic dot 3/4

when I say “no air bubbles seen” I mean after a long while.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Drive on Sand and lockup the wheels to activate the ABS! Are you in Qatar? I am traveling via Qatar soon!
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top