nevada
Senior Member
its possible the new bearing just wasn't fully pressed together onto the spindle. it would only take a few thousandths to cause a lot of play at the tire.
NEED HELP! Hub install
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
its possible the new bearing just wasn't fully pressed together onto the spindle. it would only take a few thousandths to cause a lot of play at the tire.
Antman
Elite Member
They are vastly different.
gm350reratliff
New member
Looks to me that the OEM bearing is tapered up to the splines vs. the other bearing that has more of a corner edge to it. Does the CV shaft have a taper to it as well? That could be the issue right there.
Antman
Elite Member
I dunno, I'm not entirely convinced that I got the correct hub in the first place...
Many people have had great experiences with Bluepit bearings on here.
I would agree with you though that 99.9% of the time OEM is better.
Antman
Elite Member
That is correct. The factory flange is easily twice as long before going vertical into the splines. New bearing has a small taper and twice as much vertical space into the splines.
dekeman
New member
The two do indeed look different, especially at the face.
Of course, I can only tell 'cause the pics are GREAT.
1engineer
Moderator
Heard he traded it for a Subaru.
1engineer
Moderator
Suits him better though. It's that or a Chevy Spark.
Prolex7
New member
Hey [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] many years later I'm doing this same thing on my 4R and also went with bluepitbearings. Same issue for me. The ones received from Andy look the same as what you have received. What was your resolution? Was the replacement from him different looking than the one you initially received?
DougR
Member
If I read your post correctly, you're saying you have the same issue as Antman shows in Post 19. ((where Post 19 in this thread consists of two photos, the upper one is OEM and the lower one is BluePitBearings. Posts 22 and 26 describe the differences between the hubs.))
BPB sells two assemblies, one with a Dorman hub and another with a Toyota hub. Which one did you buy?
In Post 19, Antman wrote that tightening the assembly with the wrong hub destroyed the new bearing, so Antman must have received a replacement assembly with a hub that matched his OEM hub. Have you measured and compared hub overall thickness and depth to the splines?
BPB sells two assemblies, one with a Dorman hub and another with a Toyota hub. Which one did you buy?
In Post 19, Antman wrote that tightening the assembly with the wrong hub destroyed the new bearing, so Antman must have received a replacement assembly with a hub that matched his OEM hub. Have you measured and compared hub overall thickness and depth to the splines?
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85GT-79FJ40
New member
I haven't tackled this yet on my 4Runner but I did it at least half a dozen times on second gen tacomas. Same setup. Before I found a cheap dorman hub that worked (keep in mind this was 10-12 years ago the first time I did it) I would take the whole spindle out of the truck and set it in the press (quite precariously I might add) to push out the original hub. I never had an issue doing it this way but it was definitely more work. By the 3rd or 4th time I just always had a bearing, hub, and the bolts sitting on a shelf along with a new inner seal. They seemed to last about 70k miles and with my frequency of swapping tacomas it was inevitable I would need one before long. And that inner seal... Every time I changed one of these that inner dust seal was smoked and there was crud inside. I suspect if you don't change that seal the life of a new bearing will be greatly reduced.
Prolex7
New member
I bought the Dorman hub, it's the exact one Antman purchased that's shown in his pics. I've been E-mailing BPB and Andy said the difference in the flange that's inserted first vs factory shouldn't make a difference on fitment. I e-mailed him again today asking if I should have gone with the all OEM one or if that would've made a difference. The splines on the OEM one definitely are longer and have more surface area, if that makes sense. They look shaped the same.
Everything seemed to fit smoothly but then I had that axle gap.
I'm still not sure what's wrong.
DougR
Member
I found someone else who had a gap after assembly. In your case it appears an inner seal on the CV side is bent or damaged?
See this Oil seal not seating after wheel bearing install | Tacoma World In this instance it appears the wrong oil seal was installed.
In another instance, (I think it was a video), the bearing was so badly worn that something rubbed out and/or damaged the inner seal due because the assembly was no longer concentric. I don't have the link ...
See this Oil seal not seating after wheel bearing install | Tacoma World In this instance it appears the wrong oil seal was installed.
In another instance, (I think it was a video), the bearing was so badly worn that something rubbed out and/or damaged the inner seal due because the assembly was no longer concentric. I don't have the link ...
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cdcengineer
New member
I will attest that the link above provided by Doug R to the article about the gap after bearing install leads to a great thread. The dust seal on the back can get bent which results in the appearance that the bearing is not all the way tightened. Thanks Doug for posting that. Hopefully this helps others as it helped me... Ultimately, the link above leads to another link which takes you:
Who's replaced CV or hubs? Question... | Tacoma World
Who's replaced CV or hubs? Question... | Tacoma World
