Need help picking a 4runner if any.

biggestmexi

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He I am sitting in Rochester, MN looking at 2 4runners.

Both are 2000 limiteds with multimode.

One had 135000 miles timing belt done but the steering wheel is crooked, more body rust, brakes shudder, and the truck vibrated a bit under heavier acceleration. HAS LOCKING REAR DIFF. Newer tires.

The other had an aftermarket radio and remote start but I don't care about it. It had 152000 miles, no timing belt that anyone knows of. But it just seems tighter and no brake shudder. I would replace anyway. A rather clean body, much better than the other one. 2 tires would need to be replaced soon. But you can see from the pics with the rusty around the front window. NO LOCKING REAR DIFF.

SAME PRICE FOR EACH. I'm only here until Monday and have a 5 hour drive home...



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You checked the frame, right? Be wary of the dreaded pink milkshake too. I'd probly go with less rust and no locking diff, but you should replace the water pump and timing belt asap.

Sounds like they both need maintenance soon. The first one needs brakes and an alignment asap, and the second one needs TB/WP asap. Both probly need a radiator or trans cooler too.
 
You checked the frame, right? Be wary of the dreaded pink milkshake too. I'd probly go with less rust and no locking diff, but you should replace the water pump and timing belt asap.

Sounds like they both need maintenance soon. The first one needs brakes and an alignment asap, and the second one needs TB/WP asap. Both probly need a radiator or trans cooler too.

I checked the tranny fluid and coolant. Tranny was clean, but the coolant was dirty but just from years of gunk. Yeah but I don't know how I would get the rust off the rusty one. It's really bad on the rear driver side quarter panel under the flare.

Frames look solid. The lower mileage one is actually a bit more rusty.

I also might get a friend of a friend to be able to do the timing belt. He is a service technician for the local Chevy/Mercedes dealership.

These are both $6085 out the door too.
 
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What does everyone think about the windshield rust? Surface rust but you think I can get it off with out removing the windshield?
 
When I had my windshield replaced they cleaned any rust there was. I also had a 71 firebird with rust around the windshield (front and rear) that it leaked and was repairable by me. I think what you have is fixable.

You might get either one to budge because of rust. Definitely get under the rig and check frame rust, especially where the rear lower controls arms attach.
 
When I had my windshield replaced they cleaned any rust there was. I also had a 71 firebird with rust around the windshield (front and rear) that it leaked and was repairable by me. I think what you have is fixable.

You might get either one to budge because of rust. Definitely get under the rig and check frame rust, especially where the rear lower controls arms attach.

The frame looks pretty solid other than surface rust. Seems like I could grind it and POR it.

They will not really budge since it is already so cheap.

Are there really any reported failures from timing belts? I see a lot of making sure you change which I will. I'm just wondering about it is all.
 
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Dude rust repair is awful. It will take all the fun out of your truck. Grinding and POR15-ing is such a shitty job.

The timing belt will probly last forever if its oem. The waterpump will fail first.

Where in Illinois are you? I'm in Schaumburg
 
I'd stay away on rust, even with a rear locker. Rust is something that dramatically lowers the vehicles worth. Find a clean one.
 
Dude rust repair is awful. It will take all the fun out of your truck. Grinding and POR15-ing is such a shitty job.

The timing belt will probly last forever if its oem. The waterpump will fail first.

Where in Illinois are you? I'm in Schaumburg

I'm in LaSalle Peru area.

It's going to be a 3rd vehicle so it can stay sitting for a while.

Man, just seems decent
 
My choice is neither. But definitely not the first truck. If I were you I'd start looking at trucks farther south. Even pink milshake transmissions are easier and cheaper things to take care of than that insidious monster that never sleeps (rust). Buy a clean truck then slather it with Fluid Film or take it to a good Ziebart (keyword a good one).

Take your time and find a clean one with a good owner history, perhaps you'll pay $1000-1500 more up front and will have to wait and or travel to get it, but trust me it will save hours of headache and heartache, not to mention potentially thousands of dollars in the long run.
 
Tough choice.... I guess it depends which one you want to work on?? Personally, I'd pay someone to fix the windshield rust.... and the water pump and timing belt can be a pain... but not bad if you have the right tools.

It's hard to say really, without pics of both trucks.... but rust isn't the end of the world... as long as you know what to do with it.

I've been coating my undercarriage with oil and grease since I bought it. It's a big greasy mess... but everything seems to be holding up really well.

Good luck with your decision... keep us posted on which one you buy! :)
 
Frame rust is serious - get an expert opinion before you let your wife drive it and the rear control arm comes loose (been there).

Also remember that the 5VZFE is a non-interference engine so changing the TB is not as critical a repair as you might think. Water pump will probably fail first.
 
They don't sound so good or cheap. Are you set on buying one of those?

Here are a couple that may be on your way home.…

96 4runner

2002 4runner Limited 4x4 $7,000

I was kind of s shooting for under 130k maybe even go up to 150k and the 1998-2000 for multimode or a locking rear differential. So I never really looked into newer years.

I don't know if I stayed this but I was wanting to stick to someone I could pay with credit for cash back. >.<

I know I'm being unreasonable but I don't really need it. It's more for a project for me an my son and hopefully his first car hence the lower miles. Plus boy scouts and camping
 
Come to AZ. There are a TON of 4runners for sale here. Rust free on most. Buy one in good condition. Drive back home with it. Camp at awesome spots and visit all the 3rd gen offroad suppliers along the way home. Brag to buddies that your 4R has no rust.

I think I'm going to start a business....

I know the mileage is high but its got this awesome button near the steering wheel.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/5065397802.html

Or if you absolutely have to have that supercharger, Toytec suspension, New KO2s and Elocker all for under $5,500 OBO...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/5073497910.html
 
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Come to AZ. There are a TON of 4runners for sale here. Rust free on most. Buy one in good condition. Drive back home with it. Camp at awesome spots and visit all the 3rd gen offroad suppliers along the way home. Brag to buddies that your 4R has no rust.

I think I'm going to start a business....

I know the mileage is high but its got this awesome button near the steering wheel.

1999 4 RUNNER 4X4 LIMITED SR5

Or if you absolutely have to have that supercharger, Toytec suspension, New KO2s and Elocker all for under $5,500 OBO...

1997 Toyota 4Runner supercharged

Those are some seriously impressive mileage numbers. I haven't seen any advice those lol. I do have a friend that has somewhat recently moved to Arizona but it s seems like the 4 runner that I'm looking for wouldn't exist down there or would cost 10k.

I'm really looking for low mileage because I would like to modify it but still have piece of mind that my son could drive it for his first vehicle in 7 years. Then he can sit and brag how awesome his truck is to his friends and break it himself after he buys it from me lol.

My car that I drive now, I have put less than 100k on it in less than 11 years. So I am kind of basing my numbers off of that. And I would assume I'm going to be driving the 4r less since I will still be using the other car for work. So, technically I guess something around 180k mileage wouldn't be terrible now that I think of it.
 

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