NEED HELP!!!! Rear running lights and tag light don't work?!?!?

T4R NEWBIE

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Yesterday I replaced my front turn signals, corner markers, brake lights and reverse lights with LED bulbs. Also I replaced my headlights and fog lights with HIDs. Before I replaced everything all the light were working fine. However, tonight I got pulled over tonight for my running lights and tag lights not working. Luckily he told me to turn my hazards on and sent me on my way. When I got home I checked everything I could think of... bulbs, fuses, wire connections, I even changed all the LED bulbs back to halogens. Still no tag lights or rear running lights... The strange thing is that every other light works perfectly, front turn signals, rear turn signals, parking lights, fogs, headlights, back up light and brake lights. Also I tested the connections to make sure they are getting power. The rear brake lights get power when I hit the brake pedal but they do not get constant power with my headlights on as they should. Has anyone else had this problem? PLEASE HELP!!!
 
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Yea the DRLs are disabled and I'm not sure about the relay harness... I bought the kit from Ddm tunning for 9003 hi/lo and followed their instruction for install.
 
[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]

This is the origianl thread I started. I have a 2000 limited 3.4L 4X4 with E-locker.
 
Any chance you could post the directions you followed? Or a link to them, just in case the problem lies in there somewhere. Other wise we'll be sending you to look for bad connections!
 
OK, based on those directions, I don't see how you could affect the tail lamps. And since you have FRONT markers working, I'm going to say we need to follow the rear lamp circuit. But first have you tried a KNOWN GOOD bulb in any of the affected lamps? Sometimes you just have to check in case you LED bulbs you bought were not good. Believe me it happens.

So if you are familiar with the Driver's side Junction Box at the left side lower finish panel, we can start there. The easier thing to check is at the main engine room fuse block, but it's harder for me to explain, so we'll start here. You'll need to unbolt it to gain access to the rear connectors. You'll need to look at connector 1E which is to the left one, and down one from the flasher relay. I'm hoping [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can post the link to page 24 of the EWD, since I am flying blind without my normal computer. (By the way if you get Cryptolock Ransom virus, your computer is a boat anchor).

So pin 4 on connector 1E should have 12V with the tail lamps on, you can disconnect the connector to check it if you need to, it won't make a difference for this test. If you have 12V, plug the connector back in and check connector 1B terminals 5 and 7, if they don't show 12V, your Body ECU is bad, if they do, we can check the rearward harness.

If Pin 4 on Connector 1E did not have 12V, we'll go to the engine room main fuse block. If you can make these tests and tell us what happens, we'll solve this quickly.

:pop2:
 
I was just coming here to post the same thing. Really looks like the issue should be in this aux. relay box or between there and the main fuse box. The aux. box pin-outs and the Taillight circuit are identical for the two closest years I have, 1999 and 2002, so we should be safe in using the 2002 which are available online. Here are the links, first the box diagram on page 24 of the first doc and then the Taillight circuit.

Looking forward to your results.
 

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wow guys thank you this is really helpful! During my lunch break im going to buy new bulbs just to double check and make sure that is not the issue. Once I get off work I will start testing the pins and keep you updated on what I find!
 
OK, based on those directions, I don't see how you could affect the tail lamps. And since you have FRONT markers working, I'm going to say we need to follow the rear lamp circuit. But first have you tried a KNOWN GOOD bulb in any of the affected lamps? Sometimes you just have to check in case you LED bulbs you bought were not good. Believe me it happens.

So if you are familiar with the Driver's side Junction Box at the left side lower finish panel, we can start there. The easier thing to check is at the main engine room fuse block, but it's harder for me to explain, so we'll start here. You'll need to unbolt it to gain access to the rear connectors. You'll need to look at connector 1E which is to the left one, and down one from the flasher relay. I'm hoping [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can post the link to page 24 of the EWD, since I am flying blind without my normal computer. (By the way if you get Cryptolock Ransom virus, your computer is a boat anchor).

So pin 4 on connector 1E should have 12V with the tail lamps on, you can disconnect the connector to check it if you need to, it won't make a difference for this test. If you have 12V, plug the connector back in and check connector 1B terminals 5 and 7, if they don't show 12V, your Body ECU is bad, if they do, we can check the rearward harness.

If Pin 4 on Connector 1E did not have 12V, we'll go to the engine room main fuse block. If you can make these tests and tell us what happens, we'll solve this quickly.

:pop2:


Ok so I bought new bulbs and that was not the problem.
Next step was checking pin 4 on connector 1E: it does have 12V with the tail lamps on.
Next step was check connector 1B terminals 5 and 7. It is reading 12V to both terminals 5 and 7.
 
Ok so I bought new bulbs and that was not the problem.
Next step was checking pin 4 on connector 1E: it does have 12V with the tail lamps on.
Next step was check connector 1B terminals 5 and 7. It is reading 12V to both terminals 5 and 7.

Strange. Theoretically, you have two independent faults--possible, but unusual. How about we go into the left kick panel and check junction IE2. It's a 22-pin connector whose location is shown on page 38 and pin-out on page 39 of attached. There should be 12V+ on Pin 22 (green wire) coming from the aux relay box with Tails on.

On the other side we can check IL1 in the right kick panel for 12V with Tails on at Pin 16 (likewise green wire). 17-pin connector with location at page 40 and pin-out at page 41 of same attachment.

Those checks should give us something to go on (as in forward or back of those points.) Forward will be easy on the left side and back will be easy on the right.

I am very curious to see the result. Need more popcorn.
 

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Ok so I bought new bulbs and that was not the problem.
Next step was checking pin 4 on connector 1E: it does have 12V with the tail lamps on.
Next step was check connector 1B terminals 5 and 7. It is reading 12V to both terminals 5 and 7.

Very good, so if you look at the EWD you got earlier, you'll see the two wires take different paths to the rear. Let's start with the left side kick panel, and then the right side kick panel. Find the connector 1E2 pin 22 in the Left kick panel. Maybe [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can furnish us with the link to page 38 and 39 to help you find it. Here wire is still green on both sides of the connector. On the right side you'll need to find connector 1L1 Pin 16, once again we need page 40 and 41 to help identify the connector. Notice I skipped over the connection at the center Junction block near the steering column. If the right side fails, we'll come back to that.

:hungry:
 
strange. Theoretically, you have two independent faults--possible, but unusual. How about we go into the left kick panel and check junction ie2. It's a 22-pin connector whose location is shown on page 38 and pin-out on page 39 of attached. There should be 12v+ on pin 22 (green wire) coming from the aux relay box with tails on.

On the other side we can check il1 in the right kick panel for 12v with tails on at pin 16 (likewise green wire). 17-pin connector with location at page 40 and pin-out at page 41 of same attachment.

Those checks should give us something to go on (as in forward or back of those points.) forward will be easy on the left side and back will be easy on the right.

I am very curious to see the result. Need more popcorn.

holy cow! Gmta
 
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Very good, so if you look at the EWD you got earlier, you'll see the two wires take different paths to the rear. Let's start with the left side kick panel, and then the right side kick panel. Find the connector 1E2 pin 22 in the Left kick panel. Maybe [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can furnish us with the link to page 38 and 39 to help you find it. Here wire is still green on both sides of the connector. On the right side you'll need to find connector 1L1 Pin 16, once again we need page 40 and 41 to help identify the connector. Notice I skipped over the connection at the center Junction block near the steering column. If the right side fails, we'll come back to that.

:hungry:

Glad to see we are on the same wavelength again. Already done. GMTA indeed!
 
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hey guys. Sorry for the long reply... i was out of town for the holiday weekend. stand by and I will post again after work!
 
Is this as hard to fix as this sounds?

All this is pretty complicated sounding to me, but I have the same exact problem and this thread did not seem to come to an end.

Stock 95 sr5v6 auto right running tail and license plate light out, but was on and off for a while.
 

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