Need help separating UCA and steering knuckle

[techoguy]

Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of installing my total chaos UCAs and I'm stuck.

My OEM UCA wont come lose from the steering knuckle. The bolt is lose and I've been hitting and prying at it with no luck. I've also been spraying Blaster penetrating spray to help. My passenger side one came off with no problem.

Any ideas how to get these to separate?

Thanks!

Pictures of the lift to come after its done.

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[MarkamisPrime]

Get a bigger hammer.
Or
Run down to your local auto parts and rent a pickle fork.

 

[Bellatidusskyebeur]

Are you striking the spindle, on the knob? I strike that from both directions and it comes undone in no time.

 

[Ohhh S.k. CFPB]

think you need to remove the swaybar end link from the spindle to let the arm droop, make sure you loose/remove the break/abs sensor that is attached on the UCA

then you should be able to hit/pry it with a hammer

 

[techoguy]

think you need to remove the swaybar end link from the spindle to let the arm droop, make sure you loose/remove the break/abs sensor that is attached on the UCA

then you should be able to hit/pry it with a hammer

Removing the swaybar link is another issue. On both sides the allen wrench portion is tripping and I can't break either side free. But I was actually able to install the coil over and UCA on the passenger side without removing the swaybar link or the lower bolts on the spindle. So I do have plenty of motion, just won't separate. I removed both swaybar mounts instead sense they have to come off anyways. That gave me enough play.

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[techoguy]

Get a bigger hammer.
Or
Run down to your local auto parts and rent a pickle fork.

Thanks!
I got a bigger hammer and got a couple pickle forks from my father in-law. I'll let you know tomorrow if it works.

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[jfry008]

Thanks!
I got a bigger hammer and got a couple pickle forks from my father in-law. I'll let you know tomorrow if it works.

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Advance auto loaner kit #3 front end service kit. Contains a ball joint separator.

 

[techoguy]

Pickle forks weren't working. They aren't thick enough. Trying a ball joint separator now still not coming lose.

My next issue is removing the rear XREAS shocks. The upper nuts won't break. I'm holding the housing with a pipe wrench and the bolt and threads are moving separate from the body.

I've seen some guys end up just cutting them off.

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[MarkamisPrime]

Pickle forks weren't working. They aren't thick enough. Trying a ball joint separator now still not coming lose.

My next issue is removing the rear XREAS shocks. The upper nuts won't break. I'm holding the housing with a pipe wrench and the bolt and threads are moving separate from the body.

I've seen some guys end up just cutting them off.

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Cut the dust boot and hold the shock stem with channel locks. Should work to break loose the nut.

 

[jfry008]

Pickle forks weren't working. They aren't thick enough. Trying a ball joint separator now still not coming lose.

My next issue is removing the rear XREAS shocks. The upper nuts won't break. I'm holding the housing with a pipe wrench and the bolt and threads are moving separate from the body.

I've seen some guys end up just cutting them off.

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Have you tried this? I've always been successful with it.

 

[techoguy]

Have you tried this? I've always been successful with it.

Yeah that's what I'm trying now, hasn't come lose yet...my pattern is tighten, hit with mini sledgehammer a few times, tighten some more and repeat. No luck yet.



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[Morphyne]

I used a pair of pickle forks recently when one wod t do. But then I found d out that I needed to disconnect then he swaybar to get the droop I needed

 

[jfry008]

Yeah that's what I'm trying now, hasn't come lose yet...my pattern is tighten, hit with mini sledgehammer a few times, tighten some more and repeat. No luck yet.



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Hmm..maybe try jacking up under the LCA, to put the balljoint at a better angle.
The castle nut for the ball joint is removed right?

 

[techoguy]

Hmm..maybe try jacking up under the LCA, to put the balljoint at a better angle.
The castle nut for the ball joint is removed right?

Thanks, yeah tried jacking up the LCA too. And yeah, castle nut is free. I still have it on so when it all breaks free it catches the steering knuckle. There's 1/4-1/2" between the nut and the knuckle now. Picture just doesn't show that cause the angle.

Just spoke to a Toyota tech that works on lifts all the time, he says a heavy hammer always works just have to hit it hard enough just right.....so I guess I'm going to hammer away. He said to hit it towards the front on a little machined flat area.

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[techoguy]

I used a pair of pickle forks recently when one wod t do. But then I found d out that I needed to disconnect then he swaybar to get the droop I needed

The swaybar has been disconnected. I had two pickle forks in there and that wasn't working (weren't thick enough I guess).

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[techoguy]

Still no luck, I guess it just doesn't want to let go. Not sure what else to do at this point.

The rear shocks had to be cut off. I was twisting the whole shaft so those bolts weren't coming loose

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[Morphyne]

The swaybar has been disconnected. I had two pickle forks in there and that wasn't working (weren't thick enough I guess).

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Are you using any kind of penetration fluid?

 

[techoguy]

Are you using any kind of penetration fluid?

Yeah, PB Blaster

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[dta1984]

I had a heck of a time getting the ball joint to separate on one of my UCAs. The good thing for me was I was replacing with the UCA so the upper ball joint condition on the old one didn't matter too much. I soaked it in PB blaster several times. Pickle fork and whaled on it with a hammer did the trick. It did take a while. I tried the 2 jaw puller, and also an air hammer with the pickle fork attachment around the spindle area as well. I think the air hammer may have loosened it a little.

Edit; the air hammer pickle fork kit I have is similar to this; https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41500-Fork-Kit/dp/B0002SRG4S

 

[blackoutt]

Don't be shy with the PB blaster, spray it up from the bottom and down from the top, soak it. Hopefully letting it soak in overnight helped loosen it up some. Blast that nut tight and loose a few times with an impact gun, might have the hammer effect and break it loose. The only other things you have left at this point are heat applied to the spindle (also helps to heat and quench with PB blaster, it'll suck it back into the crevice between the two parts) WARNING be careful of catching the boot and/or grease on fire. Or go to cutting it off/drilling out the center of the ball joint stud to weaken the press fit.