Need help. Thinking of Buying a 1st Gen.

THEREALTOR1

New member
I could really use some advice regarding the purchase of a 1st Gen i'm hopefully going to go look at tomorrow. I seriously want a convertable T4R and so i'm hoping I can get some advice from individuals removed from the visions dancing around in my head :D

Its an 87', 5speed. Has the 22r, which the lady tells me is the 2nd motor dropped in to replace the factory motor about 5 years ago. This was done at a local toyota dealership, and she says she has all sorts of service records, etc., she can provide. She's a Realtor, so i'm hoping she's not just trying to make the sale (gotta watch out for those Realtors :D) Anywho, the mechanic at the dealership said the truck was in to good of shape to get rid of, so her best bet was to drop in a used 22r that already had approx. 55k miles on it (iirc), and she's put another 25-30k on it since, until recently it "died". She says the truck is sound, just now it will not start.

Supposedly away on a trip, engine started running rough, limped home, hasn't started since. She says there's h2o in the oil. A shadetree mechanic friend of hers says its just the timing belt, change that and she'd probably be good to go, but her and her husband have decided to sell it after owning it for 14 years now that all of their kids have grown, out of college, its like a 5th vehicle, so it was hardly used in the last few years, except for when her kids came home from college, or if they went out on the beach. Yes, she lives in a beach town, and it has seen its share of time on the beach. She even went as far as to say her sons have gone thru a few clutches pulling full size fords out of the sand (ugh :( , don't want to necessarily hear that).

So, thats pretty much everything I know at the moment. As I indicated above, I hope to take a ride to check it out tomorrow. She's asking $1500 for it. Fortunately being we're both in "the biz", and she now knows that it would be going to a T4R family, she might be willing to negotiate slightly (i'm still thinking i'm probably looking at around $1200, plus a tow bill). Whats your thoughts on that price even if its a worst case, replace the entire engine, scenario?

Any advice? What can I check thats not super invasive or labor intensive(meaning i'm not going to be using any oil clarity testing kits, or tearing down the top end of the motor). I'd just like to look for some things, that I can check just to kind of get an idea of what kind of life this thing has lived, and am I buying someone else's junk for a grand + of my hard earned money, or does it sound like it might have some potential? Also, if they weren't doing anything foolish (like full pontooning it in the atlantic ocean), and truly were just coming back from a trip when the engine started acting up, what could cause h2o to get into the engine block? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I go buy what could be the truck of my dreams or a potentially regretful experience. TIA!
 
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Your trying to see the amazing. Careful. You are trying to convince yourself to buy it.

H2O in the oil, that could mean coolant; which means head gasket most likely.
Don't trust a shade tree mechanic. I am a shade tree mechanic, and I would never expect my "diagnosis" to sell someone a car. It is simply far to cheap to pay an ACTUAL mechanic with an actual garage and actual education to check it.

She says a lot... but honestly, what does she know? She is a Realtor, not a mechanic. To someone untrained nothing is nothing and something is something. You need someone trained and experienced to tell you what the deal is.

In all seriousness, you never buy a truck that doesn't start, on the word of someone you have never met that all it needs is X.

I call B.S. Water in the oil is bad and if I were the kinda owner that used water instead of coolant, due to a leak, then yea... water in the block when the HG went.

I suspect there is something seriously wrong with it. regardless. You need to have it inspected.

Or don't. :) Your money. But don't be shocked when you hear the engine is toast due to something or another.
 
Coolant in the block is at least a bad head gasket (or timing chain cover). Could be lots worse, if it overheated or the chain stretched too far. If you're going to take a flyer on it, I'd offer a thousand and see what happens. I wouldn't go much higher than that. If the body was way clean and the rest of the mechanicals were good, it'd probably be worth paying $1000 or $1200 and just planning on replacing the 22r with a 22re longblock or a 3rz swap.

OR - do it the right way, have it towed to the dealership and checked out top to bottom. Most everybody has roadside assistance from somebody or other these days, so use hers to get it there and yours to get it home, give the dealership $100 and then go into negotiations knowing exactly what you're buying.

It's easy to fall in love with these trucks, but I'd either find out ahead of time what's wrong, or I'd go into it planning on sinking a couple thou into getting it running again and negotiate accordingly.
 
OR - do it the right way, have it towed to the dealership and checked out top to bottom.

This is the best bet. Worst case, you spend $100 to save $2,000.....that doesn't sound so bad. Any kind of serious issues, and I would walk away.....sounds like the college kids like to have too much fun....
 
Man these ads, and FB plug-ins, etc., drag down the speed of site something fierce sometimes :rant:

Your trying to see the amazing. Careful. You are trying to convince yourself to buy it....

I hear ya DC, thats why I wanted to try to gather as many opinions, and do as much research as possible for in the limited amount of time I may have before I have to decide to pull the trigger or walk away. I do realize that regardless of whether I decide to buy it or not, no 2 ways around it, i'm buying a vehicle that presently doesn't run, which is kind of an important aspect of a "vehicle". My real consideration, is faced with the same scenario, what would be a good enough "deal" for you to take a flyer on it, or would you simply not, regardless? Thanks for info though, thats definately a consideration.

Coolant in the block is at least a bad head gasket (or timing chain cover). Could be lots worse, if it overheated or the chain stretched too far. If you're going to take a flyer on it, I'd offer a thousand and see what happens. I wouldn't go much higher than that. If the body was way clean and the rest of the mechanicals were good, it'd probably be worth paying $1000 or $1200 and just planning on replacing the 22r with a 22re longblock or a 3rz swap..

Not much to add to this, thanks KV. Basically everything you've said, is where i'm at, at the moment. Unfortunately my mechanic won't be able to make the trip with me as he's away at a golf tournament, so part of my "flyer" is that I simply fork over the money for it, get it towed to his garage, and then simply wait for him to get a chance to start digging into, at which point I can only expect the worst, and hope for the best. Just thinking over the past few hours, i'd like to get my hands on the "service records/receipts" of whats been tinkered around with over the past 14 years since her & her family have owned it. Depending on what that contains, is where i'm thinking my decision ultimately lies. If I get down there and she come's through with everything and just has folders of documents/info., then I might seriously be dealing with someone who legitimately made serious efforts to keep it in a good working condition. Unfortunately I know in reality what some people consider as "having all the records" doesn't exacly equate to what you might hope it would.

**EDIT** Just thought about something, KV, about the part of your post I bolded above, what if the timing chain actually broke? I do remember her saying something again about how her "friend" (or maybe it was a mechanic from the dealership, not from an actual visual inspection, just her inquiring), but someone, told her that maybe the timing chain had simply broke. Because I remember her saying that her response was that she told "them" that it was a chain not a belt, and that they dont' break, and "they" informed her that occasionally they've been known to do just that. Again, the reason why she says she has no idea why it won't start.

This is the best bet. Worst case, you spend $100 to save $2,000.....that doesn't sound so bad. Any kind of serious issues, and I would walk away.....sounds like the college kids like to have too much fun....


It does sound like the kids enjoyed mom & dads "toy" quite a bit, and i'm afraid they might've pushed it over the proverbial cliff. I'm hoping that's not the case, but again, its just me hoping more than anything. I'll have to keep racking my brain to see if I can come up with an idea on how to get this things into the hands of a mechanic maybe nearby that I can trust is familiar enough with the engine to get into (without getting too into it), and give me a little bit more analysis. That would be a best case scenaro.

Regardless of what I decide to do, I appreciate you guys chiming in with your $.02, and i'm hoping maybe i can just gather some more info tomorrow. Thanks again.
 
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Man these ads, and FB plug-ins, etc., drag down the speed of site something fierce sometimes :rant:

They're horrible. Between AdBlock, Ghostery, and the No-Script addons for firefox, I've got all the crap blocked and the site runs ok.

**EDIT** Just thought about something, KV, about the part of your post I bolded above, what if the timing chain actually broke? I do remember her saying something again about how her "friend" (or maybe it was a mechanic from the dealership, not from an actual visual inspection, just her inquiring), but someone, told her that maybe the timing chain had simply broke. Because I remember her saying that her response was that she told "them" that it was a chain not a belt, and that they dont' break, and "they" informed her that occasionally they've been known to do just that. Again, the reason why she says she has no idea why it won't start.

The timing chain can absolutely break. What happens is the guides that keep it tensioned wear out, and the chain starts slapping around. It's far more common for it to wear a hole in the timing cover once that happens, but it's not at all unheard of for the chain to break. If it did, you're looking at a full top end rebuild, because the 22r is an interference engine.

From their description (ran rough then didn't start), I doubt it's a broken chain. A broken chain = instant paperweight.

Honestly, there's no reason to run a carbed engine these days unless you just really like running a carb. Forget the engine completely and look at the rest of the truck - if it's sound and in good condition, see if she'll take a lowball offer and just plan on an engine swap. The 22re would be a drop-in swap and a slight horsepower boost, the 3rz is also an easy swap and would get you around a 50% increase in hp. They're both relatively cheap motors, so you'd be looking at three or four grand all-in once you're done, and that's a good price for a decent-bodied runner with a brand new power plant.
 
They're horrible. Between AdBlock, Ghostery, and the No-Script addons for firefox, I've got all the crap blocked and the site runs ok.

I need to switch back to chrome on this laptop im on now and try the blocker, because it just drags unfortunately.


The timing chain can absolutely break. What happens is the guides that keep it tensioned wear out, and the chain starts slapping around. It's far more common for it to wear a hole in the timing cover once that happens, but it's not at all unheard of for the chain to break. If it did, you're looking at a full top end rebuild, because the 22r is an interference engine.

From their description (ran rough then didn't start), I doubt it's a broken chain. A broken chain = instant paperweight.

Honestly, there's no reason to run a carbed engine these days unless you just really like running a carb. Forget the engine completely and look at the rest of the truck - if it's sound and in good condition, see if she'll take a lowball offer and just plan on an engine swap. The 22re would be a drop-in swap and a slight horsepower boost, the 3rz is also an easy swap and would get you around a 50% increase in hp. They're both relatively cheap motors, so you'd be looking at three or four grand all-in once you're done, and that's a good price for a decent-bodied runner with a brand new power plant.

So yeah doesn't sound like it was immediate like you describe with the TC breaking. So doing a swap really isn't that bad then, thats good to know. I've always been under the impression 22's are the way to go, but I guess its more so the re's -vs- r's then huh? And I was actually looking at a 94' today that has the 3.0 of course, and I think it's probably one of the first time's i've ever really been up close & personal with one of those., it doens't look like its to bad of engine. I know it gets a bad rap because its not a speed demon but I came to terms with the fact that I drive around a non-aerodynamic "brick" on wheels, a long time ago, so speed really isn't a factor to me. Good stuff. Thanks again VC.
 
Find a good independent mechanic to look at the 4Runner with you. Even though the seller may be honest and have good intentions they probably know less about the mechanical issues than you do. I recently bought a 1987 4Runner and was told by the seller that the A/C only needed to be recharged ( $50.00 ) however the compressor was actually bad and the price jumped to $600.00+ ( just an example......)
 
Find a good independent mechanic to look at the 4Runner with you. Even though the seller may be honest and have good intentions they probably know less about the mechanical issues than you do. I recently bought a 1987 4Runner and was told by the seller that the A/C only needed to be recharged ( $50.00 ) however the compressor was actually bad and the price jumped to $600.00+ ( just an example......)

I really wish my mechanic was in town and available, that would make this so much easier. I know a few other guys, but really don't have the faith that they are familiar enough with the trucks, nor the desire to be willing to take a 45 - 60 min ride to look at something thats not for them. What I need is a toyota-offroad-enthusiast/mechanic... Someone crazy enought to join an online forum, but with the knowledge to be dangerous. Thats what i'm talking about :)

I see the pattern here though, get it checked out somehow. Thats good advice. Now whether or not I adhere to it is the question. I'll be heading soon, check back later. Hopefully with good news :)

Between my Mac with no blockers/addons the site loads just fine. :zoom:

Apple-sucks-right-now-300x225.jpg


:fro:
 
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I really wish my mechanic was in town and available, that would make this so much easier. I know a few other guys, but really don't have the faith that they are familiar enough with the trucks, nor the desire to be willing to take a 45 - 60 min ride to look at something thats not for them. What I need is a toyota-offroad-enthusiast/mechanic... Someone crazy enought to join an online forum, but with the knowledge to be dangerous. Thats what i'm talking about :)

I see the pattern here though, get it checked out somehow. Thats good advice. Now whether or not I adhere to it is the question. I'll be heading soon, check back later. Hopefully with good news :)



Apple-sucks-right-now-300x225.jpg


:fro:

I knew I'd catch some grief for that one. Oh well......at least it pulled right up when I logged in. :hungry:
 
Beware of "4Runner Fever". I once bought a 1963 Land Rover Series 2A because I had the fever and it cost me dearly. If you don't have the "warm-fuzzies" about this vehicle I suggest you walk away.
 
Beware of "4Runner Fever". I once bought a 1963 Land Rover Series 2A because I had the fever and it cost me dearly. If you don't have the "warm-fuzzies" about this vehicle I suggest you walk away.

4runnerfever for real. So I'm looking at a 1986 plymouth horizon, which doesn't start for 1200$. Should I travel 60 miles for it?? Any advice for me. Get what I'm saying.

1200$ the thing needs to run or have a great body and frame and you need 4runner fever. Really she should pay you to take her scrap car off her property. This is really worth 200-500$. But having had 4runner fever before I bought one for the frame, solid axle and v6 efi, but rotton body, and another for the great body and gear tcase. 4runner fever makes you buy junk twice so you can make one. Beware. Know it has the potential makings of a money pit.
 
1200$ the thing needs to run or have a great body and frame and you need 4runner fever. Really she should pay you to take her scrap car off her property. This is really worth 200-500$. But having had 4runner fever before I bought one for the frame, solid axle and v6 efi, but rotton body, and another for the great body and gear tcase. 4runner fever makes you buy junk twice so you can make one. Beware. Know it has the potential makings of a money pit.

Well unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, who knows) i'm still grappling with this as I never got the chance to get down to see it today. I've been trying to reach out to some other mechanics I know to see if I can get a 2nd pair of eyes to go with me, and wasn't able to make that happen today, so figured it best if I just left it alone for the day and decided not to venture to see it on my own. Again, I appreciate all the advice, and i'll let you know how I make out when I get a chance to finally take a look at it.

Anybody wanna see the pics from the cl listing :D

Needs engine work, does not run. 22R engine, 5 speed, 4 cylinder. Some rust on body. Owned past 14 years. Serious inquiries only. SOLD AS IS, CASH ONLY.

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Oh a red one. 4runner fever threat level is high.

You aint kidding :D

So during the engine change they went from an re to a r?

Good catch. I just noticed that says EFI on the tailgate. As I learned above from KV, regarding the R-vs-RE, carbed -vs- FI, I never knew that, of course i'm completely out of my 3rd gen element here anyway. Don't the motors have the "22r" plate or stamp on the front of it? Does it also have the 22RE respectively? I wonder if she just typed in 22r in the description, being generic as possible, knowing that its a sought after engine (compared to the v6)? Maybe i'll shoot her a quick text and see if she clarify or send me a pic.

Thanks Canada #thumbsup#
 
You aint kidding :D



Good catch. I just noticed that says EFI on the tailgate. As I learned above from KV, regarding the R-vs-RE, carbed -vs- FI, I never knew that, of course i'm completely out of my 3rd gen element here anyway. Don't the motors have the "22r" plate or stamp on the front of it? Does it also have the 22RE respectively? I wonder if she just typed in 22r in the description, being generic as possible, knowing that its a sought after engine (compared to the v6)? Maybe i'll shoot her a quick text and see if she clarify or send me a pic.

Thanks Canada #thumbsup#

Yeah the 22RE will have "EFI" on the throttle body, all the EFI attachments on the throttle body and a "22RE" plate on the front. The head on the 22R will look a lot different and have the carb off to the side.
 

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Yeah the 22RE will have "EFI" on the throttle body, all the EFI attachments on the throttle body and a "22RE" plate on the front. The head on the 22R will look a lot different and have the carb off to the side.


Woah :wow: Huge difference. I wouldn't think there's any way to really mix that up if she even looked at the new engine, once...briefly. I'm really curious now.
 

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