Need input on alignment numbers

[HustleHard]

So replaced my oem coils with some new Dobinsons this past weekend and had the shop align it. Here are the specs I got (which I didn't look at till I got home).


Front Left Caster
-Initial: 1.3
-Final: 1.3
-Spec: 2.5-4.0
Front Right Caster:
-Initial: 1.7
-Final: 1.7
-Spec: 2.5-4.0
Front Left Camber:
-Initial: -0.3
-Final: -0.4
-Spec: -0.9-0.6
Front Right Camber:
-Initial: 1.0
-Final: 1.2
-Spec: -0.9-0.6
Front Left Toe:
-Initial: 2.15
-Final: 0.00
-Spec: -0.05-0.10
Front Right Toe:
-Initial: 1.25
-Final: 0.05
-Spec: -0.05-0.10
From Toe Total:
-Initial: 3.40
-Final: 0.05
-Spec: -0.10-0.25


They handed it off without saying anything about how it went, so I assumed it was all good. After looking where the ranges fall, looks like it could use some work. I'm running OEM UCAs. They will get upgraded eventually, but I'm trying to wait a bit. How detrimental would it be to be driving on those numbers above? Worth going to another shop and seeing what they can do?

Thanks in advance

 

[Elan750]

Doesn't look like they did much of anything besides adjust the toe ? Maybe your caster/camber bolts are frozen. You'd think they would say something though. I'd take a look underneath at your caster/camber bolts to see if they look like they've been played around with.

 

[Mike07SE]

Looks like they couldn't adjust your LCA bolts and didn't say anything. Happened to me once. Your caster is way out. The deviation in the Camber specs could be just from the toe adjustment alone.

Take it back. They didn't do it or you right.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[HustleHard]

Alright thanks everyone. I'll try to get them to straighten it out today or at least get it close

 

[green_manalishi]

Alright thanks everyone. I'll try to get them to straighten it out today or at least get it close

I've had luck hitting the bolts with PB Blaster twice a day for a couple days before going in. It will help loosen them as they are probably seized.

 

[HustleHard]

New number

So I brought it back and here's what they were able to do:

Front Left Caster
-Initial: 1.2
-Final: 0.6
-Spec: 2.5-4.0
Front Right Caster:
-Initial: 1.8
-Final: 0.9
-Spec: 2.5-4.0
Front Left Camber:
-Initial: -0.7
-Final: 0.1
-Spec: -0.9-0.6
Front Right Camber:
-Initial: 0.8
-Final: 0.5
-Spec: -0.9-0.6
Front Left Toe:
-Initial: 2.15
-Final: 0.00
-Spec: -0.05-0.10
Front Right Toe:
-Initial: 1.25
-Final: 0.05
-Spec: -0.05-0.10
From Toe Total:
-Initial: 3.40
-Final: 0.05
-Spec: -0.10-0.25

This should be fine. Yeah i know the Caster is still off, but it should be safe to drive for a few months till I grab some new UCA's right?

 

[riceandpho]

i think you can get the caster close to 3 on stock uca with new springs and shocks. i know i did with the 5100 on .85 and moogs. just let the tech know that the caster can be at 3 or close to 3.

 

[Mike07SE]

This should be fine. Yeah i know the Caster is still off, but it should be safe to drive for a few months till I grab some new UCA's right?

Technically you'll be OK, but your truck will be twitchy at speed. UCA's should be in the near future for you.

 

[Mike07SE]

i think you can get the caster close to 3 on stock uca with new springs and shocks. i know i did with the 5100 on .85 and moogs. just let the tech know that the caster can be at 3 or close to 3.

He's running almost 2" of additional lift compared to what your sig states. Results have shown to vary. Even when I had a Daystar lift my truck wouldn't compensate enough caster to fix the dartiness. Went with the LR UCA's originally and now I'm using the JBA STD arms. I makes a world of difference.