Need some help diagnosing a front end noise

[Ape Runner]

2001 SR5 4x4 with SS1.2 Lift and 2"body lift

I am getting a popping noise from the passenger side front when I turn left and the suspension flexes (ie hit a bump or body roll). I removed the sway bar think it may be a bad endlink, but the popping still occurs, just not as frequently. I'm thinking that's because the body roll is helping the situation.

All body mount bolts are tight, and so are shock bolts. Nothing obviously broken or worn. Bushings are in good shape on rack, upper and lower control arms, trailing arms, shocks, etc. Ball joints look great and are about 40k miles old. No ripped cv boots or steering rack boots. Steering rack does have the slightest leak on the passenger side. Pan hard bar is tight too.

Any ideas on what else to check? I can't replicate the noise on jackstands. I'm thinking it's a bad tie rod or the rack. I've read a bad cv is a constant clicking noise while turning. Definitely don't have that noise.

 

[MStudt]

TRE or LBJ. Both a tie rod end, and lower ball joint will pop in the right conditions.

 

[kolelt]

I to get a piping noise. When making quick right to left turns. Making the truck kinda like sway side to side. It's annoying. My lower ball joints look good.

 

[MStudt]

I to get a piping noise. When making quick right to left turns. Making the truck kinda like sway side to side. It's annoying. My lower ball joints look good.

You can't judge LBJ's by looks alone. Mine looked fine as well, and were toast when I removed them. I'm currently designing front LCA's that'll eliminate LBJ's at together.

 

[Ape Runner]

TRE or LBJ. Both a tie rod end, and lower ball joint will pop in the right conditions.

I did the tire movement test for the LBJ and with hand at 12 and 6 I don't get any movement. 0. Is there another way to test? Anyway to use a pry bar to test?

 

[MStudt]

I did the tire movement test for the LBJ and with hand at 12 and 6 I don't get any movement. 0. Is there another way to test? Anyway to use a pry bar to test?

I did that test as well with zero results too. I'm not sure of any other way to test them besides taking them to a dealer.

 

[Mynameistommy510]

I was able to fix a popping noise by replacing my steering rack guide. My steering felt pretty sloppy as well before replacing. You mentioned your steering rack was leaking, which usually results in the whole rack needing to be replaced.

 

[Ape Runner]

Just an update - bought new Inner and Outer TRE and plan to swap. Have gotten under the rig many times to shake and pry on all sorts of things and can't seem to pinpoint the culprit. Have tested the LBJ's using basically every method possible and they have no play, neither do uppers. I'm hoping when I do the TRE's the problem disappears but I hate that I don't know exactly what's causing the issue.

Endlinks are good
I've done the rack guide
CV's are good
Ball joints are good
Struts are tight
Coils aren't rubbing
UCA and LCA don't have excessive play
All joints in the steering column/shaft are intact and appear to functioning as they should
DS's are lubed
Brakes are fine, no issue there
In terms of rack leaking, one of the boots has som residue on it but it doesn't drip. Not bad enough to replace now in my opinion. Will buy a bottle of Lucas to add and see if that helps with any minor seepage.

Open to other ideas!

 

[Thorgan112]

Just an update - bought new Inner and Outer TRE and plan to swap. Have gotten under the rig many times to shake and pry on all sorts of things and can't seem to pinpoint the culprit. Have tested the LBJ's using basically every method possible and they have no play, neither do uppers. I'm hoping when I do the TRE's the problem disappears but I hate that I don't know exactly what's causing the issue.

Endlinks are good
I've done the rack guide
CV's are good
Ball joints are good
Struts are tight
Coils aren't rubbing
UCA and LCA don't have excessive play
All joints in the steering column/shaft are intact and appear to functioning as they should
DS's are lubed
Brakes are fine, no issue there
In terms of rack leaking, one of the boots has som residue on it but it doesn't drip. Not bad enough to replace now in my opinion. Will buy a bottle of Lucas to add and see if that helps with any minor seepage.

Open to other ideas!

Well a "poping" noise on the front end is usually associated with your cv's especially because you say it does it while turning. If there is grease on any of those boots that may very well be the case, one of the boots may have gotten a tear. If the slightest bit of debris gets into those knuckles it will deteriorate them and make them "pop".

Now since your saying that they are fine, I would take a look at the rack and pinion bushings, but that would make more of a clunk noise. Have someone wiggle the wheel a bit while in park. Look underneath while they do that. If you can see the rack moving and it has play, your bushings are bad.

 

[Ape Runner]

Well a "poping" noise on the front end is usually associated with your cv's especially because you say it does it while turning. If there is grease on any of those boots that may very well be the case, one of the boots may have gotten a tear. If the slightest bit of debris gets into those knuckles it will deteriorate them and make them "pop".

Now since your saying that they are fine, I would take a look at the rack and pinion bushings, but that would make more of a clunk noise. Have someone wiggle the wheel a bit while in park. Look underneath while they do that. If you can see the rack moving and it has play, your bushings are bad.

CV's Click like a ratchet and I don't have that noise. It's a single pop intermittently when turning and body roll is induced thus weighting or unweighting the suspension. Forgot to
Mention rack bushings are newish and poly, so it's not that.

 

[Jasonredwood]

My passenger side would pop when I turned left. Drove like that for a while. Checked a few things that I thought it could be.
After lifting my truck and tearing the boots, inner and outer, I decided to replace the CV axles. Good thing I did. The passenger side pulled right out with out any prying really. Lots of shavings were to be found in there. Just my experience

 

[Thorgan112]

CV's Click like a ratchet and I don't have that noise. It's a single pop intermittently when turning and body roll is induced thus weighting or unweighting the suspension. Forgot to
Mention rack bushings are newish and poly, so it's not that.

My vote is cv's still. From what your describing it sounds like a perfect culprit. and from my experience and from what I have read in many other threads its a pop sound. Not arguing with you, just trying to help you out, and letting you know what I have researched and experienced.

Goodluck! let us know if you figure it out and fix it

 

[Ape Runner]

My vote is cv's still. From what your describing it sounds like a perfect culprit. and from my experience and from what I have read in many other threads its a pop sound. Not arguing with you, just trying to help you out, and letting you know what I have researched and experienced.

Goodluck! let us know if you figure it out and fix it

Ok, well I'm going to replace the TRE's since I have the parts and they're original and probably won't hurt. But while I'm in there, I'll check the cv's.

 

[Ape Runner]

Both OTRE's looked ready to be replaced and the passenger side ITRE was for sure shot. Driver side ITRE looked pretty good, but of course I replaced it. Used all OEM Toyota parts and it as a breeze. I'll need to take it to get aligned, but I actually was able to get it pretty dang close. A lot of the vibration and sloppiness is gone. BUT MY "POP" NOISE IS STILL HERE .

The search continues...

 

[Ape Runner]

Sorry to keep drumming up this aging thread, but hopefully it will help others in the future.

I still have the clunk. sway bar end links and tre (in and out) have been replaced. Steering rack bushings are good. Everything is tight, no play in lower ball joints. The only thing I haven't replaced and don't know how to test is the cv's. However, there is no sound when in 4wd and turning, which would be characteristic of a blown cv.

The noise occurs when the suspension cycles and there is body roll and it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side front. I can feel it in the floor. I've checked motor mounts, and pretty much everything that is connected to the body and frame.

I'm nearing that point of just taking it to my mechanic for diagnosis. Any other new ideas???

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Sorry to keep drumming up this aging thread, but hopefully it will help others in the future.

I still have the clunk. sway bar end links and tre (in and out) have been replaced. Steering rack bushings are good. Everything is tight, no play in lower ball joints. The only thing I haven't replaced and don't know how to test is the cv's. However, there is no sound when in 4wd and turning, which would be characteristic of a blown cv.

The noise occurs when the suspension cycles and there is body roll and it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side front. I can feel it in the floor. I've checked motor mounts, and pretty much everything that is connected to the body and frame.

I'm nearing that point of just taking it to my mechanic for diagnosis. Any other new ideas???

My popping noise came from my LCA bushings I had just replaced. Drove me nuts for a month. I got underneath the truck with a big wrench (for the back ones-cant fit a ratchet in there because of the rack and pinion) and big ratchet for the front. Those things were seemingly tight but I was able to get them tighter and I haven't had the noise since. Tighten from the bolt head side not the other side where the bolt end comes through the eccentric adjuster. Worth a shot.