Need some wiring advice on a mystery connections made by the previous owner...

[Door Ding]

So in the process of removing some messy aux light wiring, I came across a wire that the previous owner had connected in a really odd way. On one end, it is stuffed into an empty pin on the top passenger side most corner of the long black plug in the middle of the back of the fuse box.

The other end is connected to a red with green striped wire going to under the passenger seat. This is a factory wire which was cut in half to make the connection to the new wire run up to the back of the fuse box. When the mystery wire was connected to the underseat portion of the green with red striped wire, the other half of the wire was left open.

Has anyone heard of a mod or DIY involving this sort of connection? I'm at a bit of a loss here as I've temporarily disconnected the mystery wire from the end of the green with red and have noticed no difference in any features/functions...

I've tried googling, searching and looking at images for quite some time now with no more information to show for it.

Any help would be appreciated...

 

[DoorDing]

Here is the cut wire with the new blue wire connected to it:

Here is the blue wire inserted into the top left most pin on the back of the fuse box:

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Why do you have two accounts?

Anyways, I can't honestly say what that is... The problem is that there are a LOT of green wires in the vehicle, even on that passenger side harness, so narrowing down what the wire is and why they cut it is going to be really difficult.

I have no idea which plug that is in the fuse block and which pin the blue wire goes into. You would have to get an EWD and start tracing what the factory wires are and where they go to figure out how to repair whatever they did.

 

[Door Ding]

Thanks for the reply!

I started another account because I no longer have access to the email address I used to create the other acct.

It's going into the top left pin location (using the photo for the reference) any idea where I can locate a wiring schematic and fusebox pinout for an 05 v8 4runner?

 

[A/V1]

Hello. From your description, the wire in question is for the power seat system. I would guess there was a problem with the oem wire (green w/ red trace) and the previous owner ran a new wire.

The green w/ red trace wire runs from connector 1J, pin 32 on the back of the fuse panel. It is the 30A power in for the pass. power seat.

Check out the following diagrams.
For the power seat diagram, page 2 shows this wire from 1J.

For the relay locations diagram, look at pages 6 & 7. 6 shows the locations and labels for the back of the fb. 7 shows how the fb is wired internally.

View attachment 2003 4Runner Power Seat.pdf

View attachment 2003 4Runner Relay Locations.pdf

 

[DoorDing]

Thank you! That's incredibly helpful

It does appear that it's the main power feed for the passenger seat motors that has been rerouted. I need to figure out what actually happened to the original circuit and undo the hokey wiring job where they stuffed a wire into a random spot on the back of the fuse box :/

 

[A/V1]

Thank you! That's incredibly helpful

It does appear that it's the main power feed for the passenger seat motors that has been rerouted. I need to figure out what actually happened to the original circuit and undo the hokey wiring job where they stuffed a wire into a random spot on the back of the fuse box :/

Although I can't see how the wire was connected to contact 32 on 1J, it appears it wasn't just "stuffed into a random spot". All of the pins around 32 (30, 31, 14, 15, & 16) are used for other functions on the vehicle, so they aren't empty / unused. I would simply ensure the wire is securely in 32, and route the wire so it doesn't contact moving parts, bare metal (sharp edges), and ensure the splice at the door sill is more than just twisting together and taping! Don't use wire nuts. They are intended for your home - not your car. Use a good crimp splice (or better yet - solder), and heat shrink or electrical tape when complete.
You also should make sure the cut OEM wire that is just sticking out doesn't have power on it. Either remove it since it's not being used, or tape it up so it can't contact metal. Remember: that circuit is rated for 30 amps. If it was to short out, you could potentially have a fire.