Negative switcing relay?

[jgilk1]

Switched ground?

Cheap driving lights... I have Already started the makings of the harness but half way through i thought why am i wiring these lights correctly... If toyota wires to a switching ground why shouldn't i... That and this harness is non relay again i bought a 30 amp switch but eh...

Any ways since this pair has a rated 55 watt output (4 or 8 amps ill meter it) i was thinking instead of running power to the switch then back to the lights i would wire + power to the lights and then running ground to the switch and then terminat the switch to the steerin column?

Now in theory and schematic this theory works but is it the best idea? I have plenty of wire shring wrap and connectors to rebuild the entire harness either way but i thought it would be fun..

Thoughts

 

[jgilk1]

Either way if the idea above isnt the best idea i should be able to take 86 and 87a from a relay and ground them through a switch?

 

[Ed_C]

Any ways since this pair has a rated 55 watt output (4 or 8 amps ill meter it) i was thinking instead of running power to the switch then back to the lights i would wire + power to the lights and then running ground to the switch and then terminat the switch to the steerin column?

Are you terminating it to an existing circuit or just grounding it to the metal on the column? I wouldn't connect it to an existing circuit IMO.

Either way if the idea above isnt the best idea i should be able to take 86 and 87a from a relay and ground them through a switch?

You might have the terminals mixed up. 87a is normally closed so when you energize the relay you're cutting off power to the circuit you're feeding. 86 can be connected to a ground or + as long as 85 is the opposite polarity.

 

[jgilk1]

I would be grounding to the column not to an active circuit.. The column is about the easiest thing to ground to requiring the least amount of distance from my switch to cassis ground

I realise now that im awake and not half asleep i can only trigger the relay

so 87 would run load out to the lights, 86/30 would be wired to constant power, and 85 would be wired to the negitive grounded switch

 

[Ed_C]

I would be grounding to the column not to an active circuit.. The column is about the easiest thing to ground to requiring the least amount of distance from my switch to cassis ground

I realise now that im awake and not half asleep i can only trigger the relay

so 87 would run load out to the lights, 86/30 would be wired to constant power, and 85 would be wired to the negitive grounded switch

Sounds good :thumb3: Make sure to fuse the connection to 86/30 for safety.

And when you do get those Rancho 9000's for the front please post a review. I'm looking into replacing my '02 struts and like the idea of adjustable ride quality.

 

[tomcat144d]

Cheap driving lights... I have Already started the makings of the harness but half way through i thought why am i wiring these lights correctly... If toyota wires to a switching ground why shouldn't i... That and this harness is non relay again i bought a 30 amp switch but eh...

Any ways since this pair has a rated 55 watt output (4 or 8 amps ill meter it) i was thinking instead of running power to the switch then back to the lights i would wire + power to the lights and then running ground to the switch and then terminat the switch to the steerin column?

Now in theory and schematic this theory works but is it the best idea? I have plenty of wire shring wrap and connectors to rebuild the entire harness either way but i thought it would be fun..

Thoughts

youll need two relays inorder to make that work

 

[BlackWorksInc]

So it sounds like you want a "normally open" relay that is switched closed. You can also use a five pin relay for the same effect by not wiring the fifth pin to anything.

 

[jgilk1]

And when you do get those Rancho 9000's for the front please post a review. I'm looking into replacing my '02 struts and like the idea of adjustable ride quality.

I am on a budget so i purcased the first 9k (999145) 2 weeks ago ordered the second shock on friday should be in to auto parts store ~tuesday..

Preface i have been driving ~the yast year with blown ball joints,
Tie rod ends, both front shocks and apparently a disconnected sway bar a warped rotor and improperly torqued wheel bearings and a blown steering stabilizer, and the normal rear sag

i can only give a review of how the truck feels now that everything will be back in spec and "tight" not what it feels like compared to stock... As i have upgraded and replaced a lot... Only thing left for suspension is 1 shock and reinstalling the sway bar and if i decide bushings

As it goes full review in a few weeks (i drive about 100+ miles a week so i can try out differnt terrain and settings)

As it stands with all the stuff that was blown listed above replaced i have cut my feel safe breaking distance in half and my actuall stopping distance in third