Neutral safety switch. stalling problems.

[Rebel_way]

I looks like I have a neutral safety switch problems.
engine starts in all gears and engine often stalls in P or N .
if that is the neutral safety switch problem does it able to stall the engine?

all in all the pattern looks like this:
it starts goes up to 1500rpm than drops to 300rpm and goes back 1500rpm sometimes 1200rpm. If I switch to D it drops to 800 rpm and if I switch to R also 800rpm if I switch into P it stalls instantly (doesn't meter the sequence it still stalls in P, not always,but often). Also it stalls when I switch to N after I start(ant really reproduce stalling on the intersections while waiting for green light)
sometimes engine starts goes up to 1500rpm and drop down and just stalls can do that up to 5 times in a row. Also I remember it used to stall in P after driving for a while its like it stops the engine before you turn the key off.

cleaned: maf, iac, crankshaft positioning sensor, throttle body.
what else? don't know what else to do...pretty desperate...just killing vacation time trying to fix the track...

 

[Konkordmusk]

In the last thread you posted, you posted a code. You then said you pulled the sensor and checked the resistance because of the code and it was in resistance spec, so you put it back on. That doesn't make a lot of sense, the code is there for a reason. It's either the wiring to the sensor or the sensor itself. You have to start there first, get that code cleared. The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the engine stalling; that's only a engine-start sensor.

 

[nissanh]

Pnss

If it starts in all gears, then probably something wrong inside the Park-Neutral safety switch. If you know how to play with car stuff, you can open the switch and clean all the contact points. I have few pictures of inside it is. This is 97 4runner switch.

 

[Rebel_way]

If it starts in all gears, then probably something wrong inside the Park-Neutral safety switch. If you know how to play with car stuff, you can open the switch and clean all the contact points. I have few pictures of inside it is. This is 97 4runner switch.

thank you ! I found your post in different topic and pulling my safety sw right now.

 

[TheDurk]

thank you ! I found your post in different topic and pulling my safety sw right now.

....it still won't resolve your stalling issue. P/N switch has no effect on the engine once it's running.

 

[Rebel_way]

....it still won't resolve your stalling issue. P/N switch has no effect on the engine once it's running.

I kinda understand that it has nothing to do with stalling and its only like safety feature, but car still starts in all the gears and I think that is particularly because engine starts in ON position via push start button that bypasses starter relay ( starter relay is out and been like that for 2 years after somebody gave me a jump start and burned something and car doesn't react on key in start position). So I pulled out the safety SW cleaned it up and putted back in...still same old at least I can call the guys and cancel appointment on which they wanted to install me new safety sw.

 

[Rebel_way]

In the last thread you posted, you posted a code. You then said you pulled the sensor and checked the resistance because of the code and it was in resistance spec, so you put it back on. That doesn't make a lot of sense, the code is there for a reason. It's either the wiring to the sensor or the sensor itself. You have to start there first, get that code cleared. The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the engine stalling; that's only a engine-start sensor.

Code was gone after I reinstalled the sensor I guess mainly because of the battery was unplugged while I was playing with the sensor. After that I drove like 100km over 24hr and it still didnt came back. Guy from the shop was scanning me on big ass scanner but found nothing...my little one found nothing too. 2 mechanics suggested to replace safety SW, one told me that it rarely brakes another one told me that code came up probably coz Safety SW is malfunctioning and computer probably seeing that as sensor problem, but he couldn't explain why would safety sw stall the engine.
Will I'll go and check continuity for crankshaft positioning sensor.

 

[Konkordmusk]

Code was gone after I reinstalled the sensor I guess mainly because of the battery was unplugged while I was playing with the sensor. After that I drove like 100km over 24hr and it still didnt came back. Guy from the shop was scanning me on big ass scanner but found nothing...my little one found nothing too. 2 mechanics suggested to replace safety SW, one told me that it rarely brakes another one told me that code came up probably coz Safety SW is malfunctioning and computer probably seeing that as sensor problem, but he couldn't explain why would safety sw stall the engine.
Will I'll go and check continuity for crankshaft positioning sensor.

Right, now if that's the case I would rule out the CKP.
I was thinking about your problem earlier and was thinking about how our engines computers have a "cold running" mode where they will automatically raise the idle based on the engine temp, and return to normal idle once the engine has reached primary operating temperature. This most likely ISN'T your problem since you have an idle surge and not a high idle condition, but I would probably still see if you can find OBD2 readings for your engine temperature sensor. Start there, inspect your cooling system and report back.

 

[Rebel_way]

so I watched this video on how to check if the wiring is good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaTEPhB1_C8
did mine the same was as instructed and it worked and clicked and showed the continuity.

 

[Rebel_way]

Right, now if that's the case I would rule out the CKP.
I was thinking about your problem earlier and was thinking about how our engines computers have a "cold running" mode where they will automatically raise the idle based on the engine temp, and return to normal idle once the engine has reached primary operating temperature. This most likely ISN'T your problem since you have an idle surge and not a high idle condition, but I would probably still see if you can find OBD2 readings for your engine temperature sensor. Start there, inspect your cooling system and report back.

SO nice to read that someone actually thinks about my problem too.
talking about high idle for over a year I had idle like 1500-1700rpm on cold starts in the morning ( not talking about very cold conditions) about a year ago my morning start RPMs were considerably less and would drop down to 600rps pretty fast. Over the year morning start rpm went higher and newer drop down close to 600rpm untill I start moving. I dont know why this happened, I told my mechanic about this problem, but he told me that everything is fine...

 

[Rebel_way]

engine stalled on me again did it in drive and revese.
I went fast past N and it hesitated for a sec, dropped rpm and stalled.
so rpm/coolan temp is
1254rpm at 55c
960rm at 72c
786rpm at 83c
794 at 87c
789 at 88c
616rpm at 89c in gear

 

[Konkordmusk]

What year is your truck? It's the 5vz-fe right?

 

[Rebel_way]

What year is your truck? It's the 5vz-fe right?

yes. 98 v6 auto

 

[Rebel_way]

I dont now if IAC valve has to do anything with my stalling, but I pulled it out to check for resistance and it gave me 21.4 ohms on centr pin and any of the side ones between both side ones im getting 42ohms. also checked with 12v power. valve closes and opens depending on wire position. so Im guess this one is good.

 

[olhobbler]

I have a question for you..how did you remove yours...I have pulled one off at a junkyard..it was kinda stubborn..but got it off the little stalk thing...however mine is not really that eager to come off....did you use a screwdriver, or just keep pulling back and forth..anyway..i plan on doing what you did and clean it..thanks