New 3rd Gen Owner w/ questions

[Jkysh]

Hey everyone,

Been reading for quite some time now and have decided to post regarding some preventative maintenance for my 4runner. Ive got a 99 limited w/ factory e-locker with 203k on the clock. Found it on craigslist, it was a seattle truck its entire life and was shipped east to CT, no rust and is in excellent shape and I would like to keep it on the road for as long as I can.

So far I have done the following work:

Cleaned MAF
New Panel Filter
New Plugs (OEM)
Cleaned throttle body
New Fuel Filter
New Radiator (had a leak due to a cross threaded outlet from previous owner)


Pads and rotors are fine, no pull either direction and has lots of bite. I am getting new tires soon, and should be ready for a long cold new england winter.

I am looking for input on the following issues and preventative thoughts I have as well as any suggestions you guys might have for me and my 4runner at this point in its life.

Timing Belt - ive read its non interfacing, and previous owner said it was done around 150/160k - when is it due next? Every 90K miles?

The truck starts within 2-4 cranks every time, however once it is fully warm it has some trouble starting back up again. Ive read this is due to a dirty IAC valve, is this true? What can be done to ensure proper restarts once a full heat cycle has happened?

What suggestions for suspension restoration are recommended? Id like to upgrade shocks / springs and any other parts to give it a more planted feel on the road but as it stands and rides now it is good for being my daily driver.

Any other suggestions or thoughts would be much appreciated, thank you!!

 

[nissanh]

If the timing belt, water pump and bearings are OEM then yes, 90 to 100 K is good.

Do you have the IAC valve as a separate attachment to the throttle body? Did you clean it while it is on the truck? The problem is the IAC is at the bottom and all the gunk falls right into the IAC valve if you do it while it is attached to the throttle body. How old is the battery? This could be an issue too.

I have 2000-2001 4x4 tacoma progressive spring strut in my 97. It is amazingly soft and rides like a car. Rear is tall 99 coil springs and Bilstein shocks.

 

[Black798]

The IAC valve is an easy fix, pull the valve body and remove the valve then gently brush the spring loaded door with a tooth brush and some wd40. Dry it off and put it back together and it will be good as new. Just did this to mine and it worked like a charm. I would say the timing belt can easily go 100k in between changes. Mine went 150k before it was changed and it looked to be in good shape. For suspension refresh I would recommend poly sway bar and steering rack bushings all around to reduce body roll, and then a toytec/eibach bilstein combo in the front and ome 906 bilstein combo in the rear. This will gain you a slight lift but overall makes the truck more solid on the road and IMO improves the look.

 

[Jkysh]

If the timing belt, water pump and bearings are OEM then yes, 90 to 100 K is good.

Do you have the IAC valve as a separate attachment to the throttle body? Did you clean it while it is on the truck? The problem is the IAC is at the bottom and all the gunk falls right into the IAC valve if you do it while it is attached to the throttle body. How old is the battery? This could be an issue too.

I have 2000-2001 4x4 tacoma progressive spring strut in my 97. It is amazingly soft and rides like a car. Rear is tall 99 coil springs and Bilstein shocks.

I removed the throttle body and cleaned the butterfly valve throttle body cleaner and made sure it was dry etc before re-installing. Perhaps some gunk has fallen down into the bottom of the IAC? Is this what you are saying?

Not sure on battery, but I might start there as I gave the throttle body a pretty good cleaning and it was not "that" dirty to start with!

The IAC valve is an easy fix, pull the valve body and remove the valve then gently brush the spring loaded door with a tooth brush and some wd40. Dry it off and put it back together and it will be good as new. Just did this to mine and it worked like a charm. I would say the timing belt can easily go 100k in between changes. Mine went 150k before it was changed and it looked to be in good shape. For suspension refresh I would recommend poly sway bar and steering rack bushings all around to reduce body roll, and then a toytec/eibach bilstein combo in the front and ome 906 bilstein combo in the rear. This will gain you a slight lift but overall makes the truck more solid on the road and IMO improves the look.

Thank you for the input on suspension and timing belt! I do not want the belt to go, and will assume it was done around 140k and give myself until ~230K until a safe threshold is met for a belt replacement :reddance:

If any one can throw some more preventative maintenance items my way I would really appreciate your insights. Thanks again

 

[Mark_BC]

Lower Ball Joint replacement and inner / outer tie rods.

Seafoam in the intake.

Spray Rust Formula 3000 anywhere you see rust starting underneath if you drive it in the salt.

Hose out the quarter panel / fender / whatever it's called, just in front of the driver and passenger doors, you access them at the bottom when you open the doors. I had loads of crap accumulating there.

 

[mtbtim]

Sounds like you might benefit from this thread. Happy wrenching!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217550-3rd-gen-toyota-4runner-diy-videos.html

 

[Scramble]

:worthless
I'm surprised people are answering you since you didn't post a pic of her.

Rinse out the box frame. Even though it's from the NW, dirt & moisture will build up in there. Since it's rust free I'd spray it with fluid film before the salt gets to it. Also take her to the car wash after every snow storm to get the salt off. Good Luck with her!