New 4Runner Tune-Up Checklist

Greatvoid

New member
I recently picked up a '99 Limited that seems to be in pretty good shape (though not really "pretty" shape, but it's mostly dings, scrapes, scratches and such on the interior). After driving it a couple weeks, it's now officially due an oil change, so I figure it's about time to make a list of things to "spruce it up" in general.

So far I've noticed I'm getting crappy mileage. Based on the PO's records, the air filter hasn't been changed in a hot minute, so it may be responsible for some of it. My policy is a new air filter every time I do an oil change.

Anyway, it's got 160K on the clock. Looks like it's had a mix of synthetic and dino depending on where/when they did it, but 5w30 across the board.

So, I've got a few questions:
I've never run synthetic. Most of the fears I see are people worried about seal seepage switching to synthetics after an engine has some miles on it. Given the mix of what it's had in the past, I'm really tempted to chance it, do swaps every 3K for the next 3 changes or so, then run synth with a 5K change interval from then on if I don't spot problems. Any feedback on this plan? Also, I've never run synth before -- any suggestions?

Aside from that, I'm wondering if I shouldn't do a diff lube job. Had a sticky rear e-locker, and it's not clear when it was last done. Any suggestions on what to feed it there?

Beyond that, I'm looking for tips on what are good bang-for-the-buck and relatively easy tune-up ideas. Looking around, it looks like a fuel filter swap is probably a solid idea. Plugs were recently done according to the PO, but with the mileage I'm seeing I'm sorta tempted to pull one and take a look, or just swap them outright so I know exactly what they've got on them going forward. O2 sensors seem to be a common suggestion for poor mileage, but they're also a bit spendy.

Those items aside, anyone have general suggestions on what they'd do to a "new to you" 4Runner?
 
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Welcome to T4R.

Too many to list. Just check out the search function (or can use google directly) and filter down on the 3rd gen section. example for you, click this link I made for you > http://bfy.tw/7P7g

Start out by understanding your 4runner (or any other vehicle) is like an orchestra of many musicians that all work together for 1 sound at the end. Many moving parts and pieces to the end-goal.

Let's get you started...

OG/stock Lower ball joints are very important to replace on 3rd gens. If yours are original from 99, consider replacing them as they are prone to failure and there are numerous threads about the topic here on the forum. Very bad things happen if they break.

Plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve and grommet, clean MAF, seafoam or bg44k in the fuel tank, fresh oil/filter change, fluid flushes/changes across all fluids. On that note, dont get bogged down into the oil and weight wars, just replace them with whatever is easiest for you to do or you can do a little bit of research on the differences but dont get sucked in. I'm only saying that as I already see you are thinking about synthetic vs conventional but you should focus on your effort on other areas. As [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] and I both say, oil is good. no oil, bad. lol.

Moving on, transmission pan filter/clean/magnets (this is for auto transmission only). 02 sensor (post-cat is the most common one to go out).

That will get you started. Deeper level will be valve cover gaskets/various seals/timing components/water pump/etc.

Take a look at your rear tires and see if there is gear oil on them. If so, you need rear axle seals and thats another discussion.

If it's an auto, consider replacing the radiator or doing an aux transmission cooler due to the pink milkshake (read the buyers guide that [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] wrote if you dont know what that is).

There are basically write-ups for everything I mentioned, you just have to find them & invest some of your time into this vehicle.

As with any vehicle (Not 4runner specific), check all your tire pressures/rotation/wheel balance and get an alignment done if you are out of alignment. Places like Firestone and Brakes Plus will inspect your alignment for free before they try to get your business. Go ahead and let them inspect your suspension components too, they will give you a run down on how your suspension parts are doing (too many to list here).

BTW, there is even a 'Seattle Area' meet and maintenance thread since you're in Seattle. A lot of great members here are from Seattle/PNW.

I apologize if I overwhelmed you, take it 1 step at a time. I joined this forum a few years ago knowing nothing/zip/0 about cars or my T4R but if you find this stuff passionate, you will end up spending many hours here & other vehicle forums by default. There is something new to learn literally everyday.

Out of everything I mentioned, prioritize LBJ and the radiator situation first. Think of both of them as potential heart attacks that you need medicine and exercise for & then move on to other areas.
 
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Thanks for the tips. Quite a bit of it was stuff I screened for when buying -- transmission fluid is still relatively fresh, and the radiator was done around the time the timing belt / water pump were serviced. No pink milkshake on this rig, I was watching for it (pretty sure I passed on one that was a victim of exactly that at a dealership, too).

Just trying to come up with a handy list to ensure I don't miss much, as well as weight things on price vs. return as well as what's quick and easy vs. a real job. Got the weekend coming up, so I figure a good starting list to spend a chunk of a weekend day on now is a good idea, followed by more research next week. Having the "easy and cheap" stuff out of the way just seemed like a good thing to start with, but I lack the knowledge needed to compile that list and won't get it before Sunday.
 
I wouldn't worry about using synthetic oil unless you have a bunch of sludge under the valve covers. You can take a peek through where you fill the oil to see if there is a bunch of sludge. If there is, I would avoid synthetic if you are worrying about a leak developing. At the same time, the synthetic oil may clean the sludge away over time and you could still not have a leak, its hard to say. Under my valve cover I have some sludge on them but nothing too bad. I am running a synthetic blend and changing the oil every 2-3k miles once it gets dark. The idea is to slowly remove the sludge and not all at once (seafoam in oil ect).

Definitely take the advise listed above about the LBJ's ect.
 
I recently picked up a '99 Limited that seems to be in pretty good shape (though not really "pretty" shape, but it's mostly dings, scrapes, scratches and such on the interior). After driving it a couple weeks, it's now officially due an oil change, so I figure it's about time to make a list of things to "spruce it up" in general.

So far I've noticed I'm getting crappy mileage. Based on the PO's records, the air filter hasn't been changed in a hot minute, so it may be responsible for some of it. My policy is a new air filter every time I do an oil change.

Anyway, it's got 160K on the clock. Looks like it's had a mix of synthetic and dino depending on where/when they did it, but 5w30 across the board.

So, I've got a few questions:
I've never run synthetic. Most of the fears I see are people worried about seal seepage switching to synthetics after an engine has some miles on it. Given the mix of what it's had in the past, I'm really tempted to chance it, do swaps every 3K for the next 3 changes or so, then run synth with a 5K change interval from then on if I don't spot problems. Any feedback on this plan? Also, I've never run synth before -- any suggestions?

Aside from that, I'm wondering if I shouldn't do a diff lube job. Had a sticky rear e-locker, and it's not clear when it was last done. Any suggestions on what to feed it there?

Beyond that, I'm looking for tips on what are good bang-for-the-buck and relatively easy tune-up ideas. Looking around, it looks like a fuel filter swap is probably a solid idea. Plugs were recently done according to the PO, but with the mileage I'm seeing I'm sorta tempted to pull one and take a look, or just swap them outright so I know exactly what they've got on them going forward. O2 sensors seem to be a common suggestion for poor mileage, but they're also a bit spendy.

Those items aside, anyone have general suggestions on what they'd do to a "new to you" 4Runner?

You are not going to have to do a ton of work at 160k miles. Lower Ball Joints are not a bad idea though if you plan on taking it offroad or it has been offroading (wears out the ball joints faster).

Don't stress over synthetic vs dino oil. It's not going to just explode out every crack and crevice. I run full synthetic because of the longer change intervals. Your 4Runner WILL leak out the valve cover gaskets no matter what oil you run until you replace them. The heat cycling just makes them brittle over time, just like every other engine.

Take a peek down your radiator through the cap. If you are starting to see a lot of corrosion then replace it. You don't want the barrier between the coolant and transmission fluid corroding and failing. If little to no corrosion, keep driving but keep you coolant fresh as directed in the owners manual.

P.S. Air filter every oil change is overkill, they are rated to last about 10k miles. Unless you live in a very dusty environment.

If you want to improve mileage, here's some good places to start:

1. Clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (search for photo write-up)
2. Replace air filter if needed
3. Replace spark plugs if needed (these can last 100k miles or more though)
4. Replace spark plug wires if never done
5. Run a couple of injector cleaners through the tank, can also run seafoam spray through the intake if you want to.
6. Check tire pressure
 

Wow, that is a great thread!

I just did all fluids, air filter, seafoam, TB / Water pump / Thermostat, and radiator for my 2002 that I just bought with 134k. Both O2 sensors and plugs / wires are in the mail. It had LBJs done by Toyota per the recall, so overall I feel pretty good about its maintenance status!
 

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