ProfessorP
New member
I've had the same rack installed since June. No noticeable noise from the rack at any speed. Had it up to 85 mph, but mostly 70-80.
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New 5th Gen Roof Rack Now Available (Full & Standard Length) | Victory 4x4
- Thread starter Victory 4x4
- Start date
I've had the same rack installed since June. No noticeable noise from the rack at any speed. Had it up to 85 mph, but mostly 70-80.
TRD PANTHER
New member
Thanks for your feedback. What’s the largest RTT you could fit on it?
ProfessorP
New member
We don't have a RTT, so I have no clue. Haven't even researched them.
ProfessorP
New member
Actually there is a little more noise when off road. The only difference between the factory and Victory rack is the sound when you drive under a very low hanging tree with stiff branches off road. The five cross bars sound like a giant out of tune harp being plucked... Seriously! haha!
NoGaRunner
New member
I honestly haven't noticed much at all, up to 80.
Now, I just drove 350 miles yesterday with much of it at 70-80MPH with the cargo box on top and I DID hear that. lol
But it did well on the rack.
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agentcross
New member
So impressed with the rear bumper that I went ahead and bought the roof rack for Black Friday
dezertbomber
New member
Well, I had a great experience working with Corey @ Victory 4x4 who got the rack to me quick and honors the forum discount, but I am a little disappointed with the rack's performance and design.
To give background on the setting, I have a 2010 Limited and a Tuff Stuff Elite 5 person RTT on it.
Was worried the side plates being 3/16" might be too thin compared to Prinsu's 1/4" and was right. There's a bit of flexing even when just pulling myself up to open and close the tent. You can feel and hear the flexing, which while minor, is worrisome for when I go to start off roading with this and there are much greater lateral forces being applied. The tent with the rubber anti-condensation mats and sleeping gear inside is probably close to 200lbs or just under. When just driving on the road there's a lot of creaking going on, which I've targeted to the very ends of the aluminum extrusions of the tent rubbing the last crossbars. I know they will say I should use their RTT mounts, but that would only reduce the spread of the load and focus it on only the two crossbars it's mounted to. I will say I was impressed with the rack's precision when installing the tent because the aluminum extrusions sit on every crossbar flat, no gaps, and with no room to get under the tent to tighten the bolts to the crossbars, I lifted one end up, tightened the plates then set it back down with the crossbar attached to the extrusions and it lined up perfectly with the slots still. Highly impressed by that, but then when I just cruised down the road and highway for a quick test I could already hear the creaking when hitting normal bumps, potholes, manhole covers, etc. It's gotten worse after our first trip with it to the snow, even with no off roading. Checked the tightness of the tent's plates and they're still good.
Worst part I found yesterday while drying the tent out. Since the front mounts sit on the roof and not the channel like the bolted mounts or Prinsu's do, there is now a dent in the passenger side area where the rubber feet sit. Was very disappointed to see that, even though i kind of knew this was a possibility and was hoping Victory had placed them in that spot because it was strong enough to not do so with typical use.
I love the way this rack looks, was pleased with the ease of install, customer service is great, install videos are helpful and practical, and really wanted to be a huge Victory 4x4 fan, but I feel like when I was sitting there comparing the Prinsu and this one for days, I may have made the wrong choice unfortunately. Kills me to write that, but I want Victory to get an honest review in hopes they'd make the two changes I think this rack needs: mounting in the roof's side channel (either with the floating rubber feet or adhered) instead of the roof's surface for the front mounts and either 1/4" side plates or 3D shaping to add rigidity and maintain the weight savings over the thicker side plates.
To give background on the setting, I have a 2010 Limited and a Tuff Stuff Elite 5 person RTT on it.
Was worried the side plates being 3/16" might be too thin compared to Prinsu's 1/4" and was right. There's a bit of flexing even when just pulling myself up to open and close the tent. You can feel and hear the flexing, which while minor, is worrisome for when I go to start off roading with this and there are much greater lateral forces being applied. The tent with the rubber anti-condensation mats and sleeping gear inside is probably close to 200lbs or just under. When just driving on the road there's a lot of creaking going on, which I've targeted to the very ends of the aluminum extrusions of the tent rubbing the last crossbars. I know they will say I should use their RTT mounts, but that would only reduce the spread of the load and focus it on only the two crossbars it's mounted to. I will say I was impressed with the rack's precision when installing the tent because the aluminum extrusions sit on every crossbar flat, no gaps, and with no room to get under the tent to tighten the bolts to the crossbars, I lifted one end up, tightened the plates then set it back down with the crossbar attached to the extrusions and it lined up perfectly with the slots still. Highly impressed by that, but then when I just cruised down the road and highway for a quick test I could already hear the creaking when hitting normal bumps, potholes, manhole covers, etc. It's gotten worse after our first trip with it to the snow, even with no off roading. Checked the tightness of the tent's plates and they're still good.
Worst part I found yesterday while drying the tent out. Since the front mounts sit on the roof and not the channel like the bolted mounts or Prinsu's do, there is now a dent in the passenger side area where the rubber feet sit. Was very disappointed to see that, even though i kind of knew this was a possibility and was hoping Victory had placed them in that spot because it was strong enough to not do so with typical use.
I love the way this rack looks, was pleased with the ease of install, customer service is great, install videos are helpful and practical, and really wanted to be a huge Victory 4x4 fan, but I feel like when I was sitting there comparing the Prinsu and this one for days, I may have made the wrong choice unfortunately. Kills me to write that, but I want Victory to get an honest review in hopes they'd make the two changes I think this rack needs: mounting in the roof's side channel (either with the floating rubber feet or adhered) instead of the roof's surface for the front mounts and either 1/4" side plates or 3D shaping to add rigidity and maintain the weight savings over the thicker side plates.
Victory 4x4
Official Vendor
I'm sorry to hear this! This is the first I have heard of this issue. Could you reach out to Tech? 269-459-8447 or [email protected]
agentcross
New member
Current lead time estimates for racks given the time of year?
Victory 4x4
Official Vendor
15-20 business days
dezertbomber
New member
Thanks for the quick response, this is one of the reason I chose you guys, great customer service. I'll give them a call for sure. Thank you
sn_85
Senior Member
What type of aluminum are y'all using? 5052 or 6061?
dezertbomber
New member
From their FAQ page:
What type of steel and aluminum do you use? Where is it sourced?
For steel plate and bar we use A36, steel tubing is A500, most aluminum is 3003-H14 (unless specified.) We always look to buy USA made steel and aluminum, but we will use Canadian sourced products if there are any supply issues.
sn_85
Senior Member
I guess that explains why their racks flex and bend. Prinsu uses 5052 aluminum and Sherpa EC uses 6061. When it comes to strength 6061 > 5052 > 3004. Add in that Victory uses 3/16" panels instead of 1/4" then you have your answer and also explains why their full length racks weigh less than the competition.
Victory 4x4
Official Vendor
Thank you for bringing that to my attention! It looks like that piece of FAQ info may come from our sister company's site (JcrOffroad) where we make fewer aluminum products. The 3004 is used on products less than 1/8" (ie. inner fenders). All of our Victory product uses 5052. 6061 is technically a harder compound of aluminum but it doesn't mean it is more rigid in this application. 6061 can crack as opposed to bending and that is not what we are looking for.
Here's a little more info on the two.
Fatigue strength is a material’s ability to withstand periodic loading cycles. If given enough time, small repetitive forces can cause “metal fatigue”, or weakening due to molecular micro-fractures that eventually lower the alloy’s strength. This value is useful to show the general endurance of metal and how it holds up over time. 6061 aluminum does not have as high a fatigue strength as 5052 aluminum (96.5 MPa VS. 117 MPa, calculated using 500,000,000 deflections below the yield strength), which means 5052 aluminum can successfully withstand more cycles of deforming. This is yet another reason why 5052 aluminum is an excellent forming alloy, as it is more resilient to fatigue failure than 6061 aluminum.
Danthefitman
New member
Has anyone successfully run the full length roof rack with a C4 ladder?
TRD4x4is16
New member
Or any ladder at all? I have a GOBI and wondering if it will clear as well
CementTruck
Member
I have the full length rack coupled with the Gobi ladder. The top corner of the ladder does make contact with the rear fairing of the Victory rack and prevents the hatch from fully opening by only about 1-1.5" (if measuring the upward travel of the bottom of the hatch door). This can be solved by either removing the fairing, or maybe removing a small section of the fairing to clear the ladder.
agentcross
New member
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